Whats the best box config for a wagon???

O.G. D-Wet
10+ year member

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I'm guessing subs up, port back, top of box on/below window line...

Also... how should I arrange subs? I want to do 4 15s but not sure how I should arrange them... I don't know whether to cluster them in the back to fire into the rear window or put 2 in the very back and kinda spread the other 2 foward... does any of this make a difference?

1) Clustered in the rear //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

111.jpg


2) Spread out a bit

112.jpg


3) [Top of enclosure] Sub and Port up

113.jpg


 
Bumpity bump bump! Havent bought the car yet... also lookin at a Ford Aspire but A) I hate Ford and B) It's an Aspire and has an a$$load of miles on it :/ (CRXs are hard to come by for cheap round here)

 
Wall build FTW
lol eventually when I have more $$$ and better subs //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

So I guess I should build the box subs up port back and turn it around and see if its any louder w/ ports firing foward?

 
Mang, just build something and see. If you want loud then try to get MAXIMUM air space and MAXIMUM port flow tuned Properly and you should be loud.

HOWEVER, you need to apply POWER> What amps are you using and how is the electrical system in your car? You never even mentioned the subs. on the real... start posting up some details otherwise your ganna get put in "Fail" mode.

 
If you are doing ssnw try 2 different designs.

1. try 2 facing forward 2 on top ports external firing back.

2 try only 3 woofers all 3 firing forward & ports firing back.

Hope this helps.

 
Our wagon was walled.

But the idea # 2 you said about spkrs firing forward and ports to rear is what my son is doing in the Blazer. So its a wall, but vented to rear with a baffle going completley around the wall on top to the front along the roof. This "other wall" will have the tuning in it as well. Also we may mount the amps etc on the rear wall in a showcase with venting so that each time the bass hits, it sends the airflow in thru the case cooling them as well. See pic...

 
Mang, just build something and see. If you want loud then try to get MAXIMUM air space and MAXIMUM port flow tuned Properly and you should be loud.
HOWEVER, you need to apply POWER> What amps are you using and how is the electrical system in your car? You never even mentioned the subs. on the real... start posting up some details otherwise your ganna get put in "Fail" mode.
If you are doing ssnw try 2 different designs. 1. try 2 facing forward 2 on top ports external firing back.

2 try only 3 woofers all 3 firing forward & ports firing back.

Hope this helps.
If I decide on this wagon, it wont really be built for competition but if it was it would probably be Stock1 (not sure if theres a limit on subs in that class as I've never competed before)

I'll most likely have 1 bat under the hood and 1 or 2 in the rear

HO alt and double or quadruple 0awg power and ground run

4 15" CrystalMobileSounds cSe subs

not sure on amps yet but will probably be putting a clean 3,000w @1ohm

Still trying to decide on whether to do 4 15s in the wagon or do a trunkbuild in a Metro w/ like 2 12s or 2 10s

 
This is merely to help illustrate a concept and is not accurate.

bswave.jpg


Basically the Port will produce a wave that is 90/180 degrees or so ( I cant remember, it may be different) out of phase with the front wave of your speaker.

When that wave combines with the front wave it may be off axis with it, producing a stronger or weaker wave depending on when it combines. If you combine the wave 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, full wave (and in between), you can gain output of the speaker. full being the highest efficiency. To calculate this you need to be able to calculate the speed of sound and then measure the length the port wave will travel until it meets the front wave of the speaker. Honestly, I dont know who even does this. Your best bet is to make a box and move it untill it sounds louder or quieter. The moisture and temperature of the air affects the speed of sound, and I only tried to calculate this to design a Transmission line, which also factors in the FS of the speaker and I don't fully understand the underlying physics of these concepts. Go get the loudspeaker design cookbook and take a read of that, I had a copy but lost it.

 
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O.G. D-Wet

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