what wires will i need for this setup?

[linksyz 10+ year member]

This is my first time installing anything in the car. I recently bought Alpine CDA-9835 which I still didn't install. I am ordering Focal 165K2P along with PG Ti400.2 amp. In next 6 months or so I'm gonna look to buy an RE XXX 15 along with a 1000-1500wrms amp. I drive a '99 Mazda 626 with 6x8 front speakers for which I'll make a bracket of 3/4 MDF. What all, cable wise, do I have to get in order to install 165k2ps, cda-9835 (alpine recommends running a wire straight to the battery for its internal amp off of which ill power my rear fill) and ti400.2. I want to install the cables now so I do not have to buy seperate kit when I buy my sub and another amp later. I think I will need the 4ga kit from knukonceptz for $30 and some 12ga speaker wire. Will i need to get a distribution block and battery terminal now or later? Where will I have to wire what and does ground have to be really close to the amp (grounding it to the seat chasis if i put the amp under the seat)? Also is it worth spending $70 on dynamat extreme door kit?

Thank you and any help would be appreciated.

Click to read more...

 

[CWT 10+ year member]

I think you should concider 1/0 awg power cable to your distribution block if you want to run a heavy sub amp plus other amps. And, you might want to make sure the alternator is up to supplying all this equipment (see below).

As I understand it, Dynomating your doors is always a good idea.

If you run the power wire for the HU V-drive amp, make sure to use an in line fuse; 12-14 awg wire should be fine. Don't forget to get a wiring harness adapter for your car; never cut out the factory plugs.

As for wiring the main speakers, get yourself a spool of 16 awg speaker wire; Home Depot sells good wire for about $25 for a 100 ft. roll--and you should not even need that much. You can get blade terminals for the speakers at Radio Shack.

To prep your car for another amp later, go ahead and get the battery terminals and distribution block. Also, upgrade the power and ground wires--the "big 3"-- under the hood to 1/0 awg if you can, but no less than 4 awg so you have no shortage of power. And don't discount what I said about the alternator; from what your talking about installing, your car's alternator is going to need to be able to put out someware between 180-220 amps. A little FYI, a 1,500 watt RMS amp usually has about a 100 amp peak current draw alone--and most Japanies cars come up real short on their alternators putting out even that much.

Take your time and do it right--quality effort gets quality results.

Good luck with it, and have fun---Later.

 

[linksyz 10+ year member]

thanks for the big reply bro!! i already bought 10ga amp kit for the v-drive amp. so from what i understand i get a battery terminal, run 1/0 awg wire to the distribution block, then from there run 10ga cable wit in-line fuse to the headunit and another 8ga cable (with anl fuse on it) to the amp and then from amp 14 ga (i already bought it) speaker wire to the speaker? where do i make the ground? do i have to make certain cables certain lenght for best performance?

 

[linksyz 10+ year member]

can anybody help me please? i want to order ti400.2 and 165k2ps right now and i want to order the cables and all the necessary stuff for it right now so i dont have to wait for cables after my amp and comps come

 

[sumone 10+ year member]

battery(+) -> 0/1ga wire -> fuse -> 0/1ga wire -> distro block -> fused outputs to each amp.

Depending on the amp, that's what wire you run after the fuse from the distro block. not familiar with that amp, but if puts out less than 400 watts or so, 8ga would be fine.

Not sure why you wanna do the battery->10ga->head unit. Head units don't need that much power (well, AFAIK)! You can wire it like that, but generally what you need is a wiring harness for your specific car. When you disconnect the stock radio, the thing you disconnect is what the harness plugs into. From the outputs of the harness is then what the wires from the head unit connect to (will provide your power & ground which is why you don't need to run it back to the battery).

As far as a ground, you want a spot on the chassis of the car. What you will do is connect the ground wire to the chassis via a ring terminal & screw. Make sure it's bare metal (scratch paint away). Drill the screw with it through the ring terminal to the chassis (make sure you know what you're drilling into so you don't hit something you don't want). The spot I used was basically right up under the cushion of the back seat. Here is what my first install looked like and may help you out a big as far as the amp (single 4channel 65x4 amp).

Shorter the cable, the better, generally. Also, this site wil help you out a LOT.