What sub?

Hey guys, I need some help. I have a Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab. I have a sealed center console box with .88 cu. ft. of airspace with a hole cut for a 10. The enclosure was .64 cu. ft. of air space, but I took the divider out thinking I was going to run a L7 in it. After a little research on the internet, I realized that maybe that wasn't a good option. I was originally running a W6 in the enclosure and the high notes sounded good but it wasn't that great with the low notes. I have been reading about Sundown subs, but it seems most people run those in ported boxes and with a lot of power. I'm running a Alpine mrp-m500 amp. Would the E series be a good option? I have a mounting depth of 7" max. What other sub options could you recommend? Btw, glad I found this forum. There's alot of good info on here.

 
I think you will probably have this issue with other subwoofers as well. A typical 12 inch subwoofer in a sealed box has a -3dB point around mid-40Hz. A typical 10 inch is probably in mid-50s, with some exceptions. It's funny that such a trivial problem could have been easily fixed with an adequate equalizer or a _parametric_ bass boost. Yet, most head units and amplifiers do not have this functionality leaving one with the headache to design a box for adequate frequency response.

If you can build, a new DIY box, I suggest you build a ported box for an appropriate 8 inch subwoofer. For example, Alpine's Type R 8 inch subwoofers have very good reputation. They work well in a small ported box, sound tight, and will hit lows better than (say Alpine's own) 10 inch sub in a sealed box. The standard recommendation is to build a box with 0.5-0.6cu ft net internal volume, and a port with tuning in mid-30s (basically as low as the port length you can fit). Alpine sells an R8 in a custom ported box with external dimensions taking about 0.8cu ft overall.

Another option is to keep your JL Audio subwoofer in the sealed box, but pair it with an amplifier with a parametric bass boost. For example, Soundstream REF1.500. This gives you ~500watt RMS power with an option to boost any bass frequency.

Or maybe get a head unit such as Clarion CZ702 (parametric equalizer) or Pioneer DEH-80PRS (16 fixed equalizer bands, including 20Hz, 30Hz, 50Hz, 80Hz, etc very handy)

 
Much rather keep the box that I have and use the airspace that I have. It's a center console box, so its carpeted and leather upholstered to match my truck.
Image Dynamics ID10" will work for this application. You have about 6" mounting depth. They require .75 cubes of space. By time you take into consideration displacement your box will be just a little to big. The IDMax 10" is probably too deep but the space requirements are almost right on.

 
How would a Alpine Type R sound in this application? The foam surround on my W6 seperated from the cone, I was looking around last night and found that you can replace the foam surround. Has anyone ever done this? Is the speaker as good as new if I do this?

 
If you don't want to change the box, but you want a better low end, I think you will be much better off getting a head unit that allows you to boost the frequencies that are lacking or an amplifier with parametric bass boost. If you think you can install Pioneer DEH-80PRS HU, that's probably the best option. Priced under $300 online. It will seriously clear up your imaging, mid-range and highs with the autoeq function. After that increase the level of subwoofer to your liking then tune all bass frequencies by ear with its graphic equalizer. Or you can just swap the amplifier for Soundstream REF1.500. I figure, boosting the lows at around 30-40HZ with its parametric bass boost should fix your issues.

 
If you don't want to change the box, but you want a better low end, I think you will be much better off getting a head unit that allows you to boost the frequencies that are lacking or an amplifier with parametric bass boost. If you think you can install Pioneer DEH-80PRS HU, that's probably the best option. Priced under $300 online. It will seriously clear up your imaging, mid-range and highs with the autoeq function. After that increase the level of subwoofer to your liking then tune all bass frequencies by ear with its graphic equalizer. Or you can just swap the amplifier for Soundstream REF1.500. I sfigure, boosting the lows at around 30-40HZ with its parametric bass boost should fix your issues.
No. You should never boost frequencies. You should only cut them. Boosting them is like turning the bass boost all the way up. It only clips the signal. If its not loud enough or doesnt dig low enough he needs to go ported, get more woofers, or get better woofers with more power. It's that simple.

 
Really leaning towards the SD-10. Emailed Sundown today and asked if this sub would work in a .88 size enclosure and they said yes. Anyone had any experience with a SD-10 in this size enclosure?

 
I've never tried to run any sundowns sealed... If they say it will work then give it a shot ;-) I really like sundown, Never came into contact with a bad product yet :) - If you don't want to spend a lot and want to keep your current box / amp / setup - consider this:

Pioneer Champion TS W260D4 10" 1200 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer Car Audio Sub 884938188197 | eBay

I have ran these in 10" and 12" - They go nice and low & sound great in small sealed as well as small ported enclosures :) - Wired in parallel running @ 2 ohms off of your alpine this thing will sound nice - Just giving you more options that I've tested the waters with already in limited space installs

 
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