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<blockquote data-quote="zako" data-source="post: 8065538" data-attributes="member: 629735">I think you will probably have this issue with other subwoofers as well. A typical 12 inch subwoofer in a sealed box has a -3dB point around mid-40Hz. A typical 10 inch is probably in mid-50s, with some exceptions. It&#039;s funny that such a trivial problem could have been easily fixed with an adequate equalizer or a _parametric_ bass boost. Yet, most head units and amplifiers do not have this functionality leaving one with the headache to design a box for adequate frequency response.If you can build, a new DIY box, I suggest you build a ported box for an appropriate 8 inch subwoofer. For example, Alpine&#039;s Type R 8 inch subwoofers have very good reputation. They work well in a small ported box, sound tight, and will hit lows better than (say Alpine&#039;s own) 10 inch sub in a sealed box. The standard recommendation is to build a box with 0.5-0.6cu ft net internal volume, and a port with tuning in mid-30s (basically as low as the port length you can fit). Alpine sells an R8 in a custom ported box with external dimensions taking about 0.8cu ft overall.Another option is to keep your JL Audio subwoofer in the sealed box, but pair it with an amplifier with a parametric bass boost. For example, Soundstream REF1.500. This gives you ~500watt RMS power with an option to boost any bass frequency.Or maybe get a head unit such as Clarion CZ702 (parametric equalizer) or Pioneer DEH-80PRS (16 fixed equalizer bands, including 20Hz, 30Hz, 50Hz, 80Hz, etc very handy)</blockquote>

[QUOTE="zako, post: 8065538, member: 629735"] I think you will probably have this issue with other subwoofers as well. A typical 12 inch subwoofer in a sealed box has a -3dB point around mid-40Hz. A typical 10 inch is probably in mid-50s, with some exceptions. It's funny that such a trivial problem could have been easily fixed with an adequate equalizer or a _parametric_ bass boost. Yet, most head units and amplifiers do not have this functionality leaving one with the headache to design a box for adequate frequency response. If you can build, a new DIY box, I suggest you build a ported box for an appropriate 8 inch subwoofer. For example, Alpine's Type R 8 inch subwoofers have very good reputation. They work well in a small ported box, sound tight, and will hit lows better than (say Alpine's own) 10 inch sub in a sealed box. The standard recommendation is to build a box with 0.5-0.6cu ft net internal volume, and a port with tuning in mid-30s (basically as low as the port length you can fit). Alpine sells an R8 in a custom ported box with external dimensions taking about 0.8cu ft overall. Another option is to keep your JL Audio subwoofer in the sealed box, but pair it with an amplifier with a parametric bass boost. For example, Soundstream REF1.500. This gives you ~500watt RMS power with an option to boost any bass frequency. Or maybe get a head unit such as Clarion CZ702 (parametric equalizer) or Pioneer DEH-80PRS (16 fixed equalizer bands, including 20Hz, 30Hz, 50Hz, 80Hz, etc very handy) [/QUOTE]

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