What sub and amp kit should I buy?

[Ishaboie21]

Looking at picking up a 10" Kicker L7R 4ohm sub, but wondering what amp I should get to pair with it, and if it's worth getting a 4ohm or if I should just get the 2ohm to make life easier. I have a 1997 Acura Integra that I've been moding to be a daily driver for the past year, and want to add in a new sub. I have a set of 4 oldschool Kicker RS6s I put in, I already ordered a Rockville 2 farad capacitor, and already have a full wiring kit put in for an amp. Looking at also grabbing a Sony XAV-AX5500 head unit, but am open to other suggestions, I can fit both single and double din. The reason I picked that in particular was so I don't have to use a phone mount for maps as my car ***** for those. I will also be building a custom sealed box out of MDF, I won't have a port in it as space is an issue. I also like the idea of a sealed box because I listen to almost every genre under the sun, and crisp bass hits seem like a good idea. I've been given a couple ideas for AB and BD amps such as a Kicker CXA800.1 and a Rockford Punch 1000.1 but I'd rather not spend a grand on one as I'm already $10,000 in on my build. Any advice helps.

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Any advice helps.

For sub I would look at something like the American Bass XR10d2. It has dual 2 Ohms coils and 1000 wattts RMS. That would open your options on 1 Ohm amplifiers. It also only requires 1 cubic foot sealed like the L7.
As for amplifier, look at brands like DS18, American Bass, CT Sounds, Audiopipe, Pioneer, and Skar. Those are brands that offer a good watt to dollar ratio without being low quality.

 

[Ishaboie21]

Awesome, thanks for the reply, I'm pretty dead set on the L7R as it's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in a sub. I like the square and the performance it hailes is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in a sub, don't need a 1000 watt sub, it's a small car with an oldschool audio system that I'm just trying to beat with the sub. Plus it's really close to the same price CAD as the American Bass you suggested, so I'll probably stick with that overall. But if you have any suggestions for particular models of amps that it would work best with would be great. I still out of 3 forums have no clue what amp to buy at what ohms for a 4 ohm 500 RMF sub cause everyone just says to convert it to a 2 ohm which I don't want to do. I like the idea of the 4 ohm and nobody has given a straight answer on what ohm amp I need to run the 4 ohm at proper capacity to keep it's punch and clear notes.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Awesome, thanks for the reply, I'm pretty dead set on the L7R as it's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in a sub. I like the square and the performance it hailes is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in a sub, don't need a 1000 watt sub, it's a small car with an oldschool audio system that I'm just trying to beat with the sub. Plus it's really close to the same price CAD as the American Bass you suggested, so I'll probably stick with that overall. But if you have any suggestions for particular models of amps that it would work best with would be great. I still out of 3 forums have no clue what amp to buy at what ohms for a 4 ohm 500 RMF sub cause everyone just says to convert it to a 2 ohm which I don't want to do. I like the idea of the 4 ohm and nobody has given a straight answer on what ohm amp I need to run the 4 ohm at proper capacity to keep it's punch and clear notes.

Got it. Playing an amp at 4 Ohms will get you better control out of said amplifier, as will using the sub in a sealed box.
Any amp in the list above works just fine. What you need is one that plays 500+ watts a 4 Ohms. For that your best bet will be a Full bridge amp or 2 channel amp. You should be fine with a full bridge since it will only be 500 watts. These two amps should fit your needs.

 

[ikpthegame 10+ year member]

The l7r is not a 4ohm sub, they come as 4ohm dvc(duel voice coil) or 2ohm dvc. If you buy the 4ohm dvc you can wire it to 2ohm or 8ohm. If you're dead set on running at 4ohm you need to buy the 2ohm version and wire it in series to get a final load of 4ohm.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

How and why are you $10k into building an integra?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Awesome, thanks for the reply, I'm pretty dead set on the L7R as it's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in a sub. I like the square and the performance it hailes is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in a sub, don't need a 1000 watt sub, it's a small car with an oldschool audio system that I'm just trying to beat with the sub. Plus it's really close to the same price CAD as the American Bass you suggested, so I'll probably stick with that overall. But if you have any suggestions for particular models of amps that it would work best with would be great. I still out of 3 forums have no clue what amp to buy at what ohms for a 4 ohm 500 RMF sub cause everyone just says to convert it to a 2 ohm which I don't want to do. I like the idea of the 4 ohm and nobody has given a straight answer on what ohm amp I need to run the 4 ohm at proper capacity to keep it's punch and clear notes.

What is the Exact model # of the sub? Or do you have a link for it?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

The l7r is not a 4ohm sub, they come as 4ohm dvc(duel voice coil) or 2ohm dvc. If you buy the 4ohm dvc you can wire it to 2ohm or 8ohm. If you're dead set on running at 4ohm you need to buy the 2ohm version and wire it in series to get a final load of 4ohm.

Right!! Im trying to get a clarification on the Model# or a link to said Sub

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

How and why are you $10k into building an integra?

I had almost that in a 93 B18 5spd with a turbo with Nitro 50 shot,JDM clutch,ECT. It was nothing to hit 140 from 65 mph and burry the gauge. Parts arent cheap for those vehicles and especially with alumin. engine. Heads and timing chains ect, headers ect, suspension parts , front and rear alumin. Bracing. Shitt adds up pretty quick. My 90 240SX 5spd was expensive to make haul balls

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Awesome, thanks for the reply, I'm pretty dead set on the L7R as it's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in a sub. I like the square and the performance it hailes is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in a sub, don't need a 1000 watt sub, it's a small car with an oldschool audio system that I'm just trying to beat with the sub. Plus it's really close to the same price CAD as the American Bass you suggested, so I'll probably stick with that overall. But if you have any suggestions for particular models of amps that it would work best with would be great. I still out of 3 forums have no clue what amp to buy at what ohms for a 4 ohm 500 RMF sub cause everyone just says to convert it to a 2 ohm which I don't want to do. I like the idea of the 4 ohm and nobody has given a straight answer on what ohm amp I need to run the 4 ohm at proper capacity to keep it's punch and clear notes.

Ive got a really Clean and Dammned good JBL GTS600 if you have an interest,that I could part with. Ive used it @4 ohms on a pair of JL 10s in the past and usually ran on front stage with a GTS300, and used either 2 or 4 GTQ400s on substage.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

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Do some Searching.. You may be able to find a great deal and even an old school gem?

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

I had almost that in a 93 B18 5spd with a turbo with Nitro 50 shot,JDM clutch,ECT. It was nothing to hit 140 from 65 mph and burry the gauge. Parts arent cheap for those vehicles and especially with alumin. engine. Heads and timing chains ect, headers ect, suspension parts , front and rear alumin. Bracing. Shitt adds up pretty quick. My 90 240SX 5spd was expensive to make haul balls

I know going fast is expensive, but I have never seen a racecar with a subwoofer. Hell, STI's didn't even come with a radio! That's what i was getting at: what's this car built to do? There's no way he has 10k into the stereo based on first post, and if he has 10k into performance, why would he decrease performance by adding weight?

On a sidenote honda performance parts are as cheap as it gets because they are tiny and common. Try building a 1989-1995 Taurus SHO engine, i wish aftermarket headers existed.

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Stinger MT1000.1

Get a dual 4 ohm L7R and run this amp at 2ohm. You will be set

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[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Have you check to see if the prefab would fit

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