what kinetik battery...?

Trixter
10+ year member

Keepin it Simple - 10% product, 90% skill
ok...sad story but i'll make it short....i totaled out my cavalier and now i have a jeep liberty...the good thing is i no longer have a trunk car, but now i am starting from scratch...again.

i believe the liberty comes with a stock 130a alt. i will be swapping it out with something in the 200-230a range (the cavalier had a 180a and was not quit enough) i will also be looking at getting a kinetik battery or 2. i was on kinetiks site and use the calculator they have to determine the proper battery size. for amps i have a cadence A7 (1200w) and a old (1995) RF punch 800 i use for my speakers....so i used 2000w. now it didn't matter if i added in the power the liberty is already using....not sure what it needs to do it's non-stereo system duties, but i'm pretty sure that should come into the equation somewhere...right? either way, the site said to use a HC2000...it didn't matter if i keep my old battery or not...? a little confusing.

 
well, as i said, in my cavalier with this set up i had a 180a alt and 2 die hard golds...still got light blinkage when the gain was at about 1/4....although i rarely turn it up that high.

 
I would never buy any Kinetik. At the shop I used to work at, the owner picked up the line in place of Optima (which very rarely had a problem), and we replaced every Kinetik battery at least twice. They overheated, bulged, and expanded. When we'd call them, they were always like "Oh, you only used a ???, well, you can't use that for that...you need [the next size up.]" Everytime.

The rep told us the 800 was comparable to an Optima Red Top. Yeah, right. The owner of the shop put a spiff on them, so our main sales guy sold one with just about every job. Since they are slab sided and have no mounting tabs we had to make or buy mounting hardware on every one. PITA. Then they all started coming back. Kinetik's response? "Oh, you can't use that as a starting battery...you need a 1400 or 1800..."

Every 800 we installed (I did a suburban with 4 in the engine bay, and 2 alternators), bulged and overheated and stopped holding a charge. So, it got redone with 4 1800's, one up front, 3 in the back. The guy that redid that job was kind of a hack, he put the three batteries INSIDE THE BOX, so we'll never know if there was a problem until it's too late. Oh well, I don't work there anymore.

The problem we also ran into was that the 1400 and 1800's were too tall to mount in the factory location on anything.

I'll stick to my Optima(s). I've probably replaced 10 Yellow tops in 10ish years, and I've had to swap out about 50 Kinetiks in ONE YEAR.

I don't understand the attraction.

Jay

 
id probably go with the biggest one you could afford. there's a 2400 in the classified for 180 + ship.
x2

The biggest Power Master, Optima or Kinetics you can fit in the factory location with or without modification. (does not matter what I do, I could not fit bigger that an 1800)

 
I would never buy any Kinetik. At the shop I used to work at, the owner picked up the line in place of Optima (which very rarely had a problem), and we replaced every Kinetik battery at least twice. They overheated, bulged, and expanded. When we'd call them, they were always like "Oh, you only used a ???, well, you can't use that for that...you need [the next size up.]" Everytime.
The rep told us the 800 was comparable to an Optima Red Top. Yeah, right. The owner of the shop put a spiff on them, so our main sales guy sold one with just about every job. Since they are slab sided and have no mounting tabs we had to make or buy mounting hardware on every one. PITA. Then they all started coming back. Kinetik's response? "Oh, you can't use that as a starting battery...you need a 1400 or 1800..."

Every 800 we installed (I did a suburban with 4 in the engine bay, and 2 alternators), bulged and overheated and stopped holding a charge. So, it got redone with 4 1800's, one up front, 3 in the back. The guy that redid that job was kind of a hack, he put the three batteries INSIDE THE BOX, so we'll never know if there was a problem until it's too late. Oh well, I don't work there anymore.

The problem we also ran into was that the 1400 and 1800's were too tall to mount in the factory location on anything.

I'll stick to my Optima(s). I've probably replaced 10 Yellow tops in 10ish years, and I've had to swap out about 50 Kinetiks in ONE YEAR.

I don't understand the attraction.

Jay
wow man there are distributors who sell thousands of Kinetiks a year that hadn't had 50 defects in a year. In fact when I worked at Kinetik I didn't have to swap out 50 total nationally over the 7 months i worked there and that was part of my job sending out replacements. I have seen some 600's and 800's swell up but in each and every case back then the shops did not have the Kinetik training or simply did not follow the manufacturers recommendations....

 
ok...sad story but i'll make it short....i totaled out my cavalier and now i have a jeep liberty...the good thing is i no longer have a trunk car, but now i am starting from scratch...again.
i believe the liberty comes with a stock 130a alt. i will be swapping it out with something in the 200-230a range (the cavalier had a 180a and was not quit enough) i will also be looking at getting a kinetik battery or 2. i was on kinetiks site and use the calculator they have to determine the proper battery size. for amps i have a cadence A7 (1200w) and a old (1995) RF punch 800 i use for my speakers....so i used 2000w. now it didn't matter if i added in the power the liberty is already using....not sure what it needs to do it's non-stereo system duties, but i'm pretty sure that should come into the equation somewhere...right? either way, the site said to use a HC2000...it didn't matter if i keep my old battery or not...? a little confusing.
I don't think the Kinetik website even takes alts into consideration. It's just max RMS and that's it.

I have a 250 amp Mechman alt, group 34 red top and a Kinetik HC-800 for the rear. I get no dimming at all from that combo. I would get the biggest that fits up front and then see how your system acts at full tilt. I would also suggest doing what they call the big 3 upgrade. There is a sticky on how to do it in this section.

 
ok...well thanks for the input guys. i have heard the issue with them not fitting under the hood...so i am not stuck on the brand, was just confused by the online calculator. i don't plan to do much until spring, gotta have time to save some cash.

whats up ng....i have been well....not on here that much. i started going back to school and got a new house and all that so car audio was pushed off to the side for a while. but since i wrecked my cav and got a new ride...well, time to get back into it...plus i gotta check in on you clowns from time to time //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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Trixter

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