What is the best 1000wrms sub?

i bet your testes were for spl output //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif.....all aboard the short bus!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
but seriously, it's impossible to say "JLs are overrated", when you're not comparing a select JL Audio woofer vs a certain RE Audio sub. (or at least you didn't describe it like that)
Did you read what I wrote?

I tested for SPL, Frequency response, accuracy, durability, and efficiency. Maybe you need to hop off the short bus and go to class to learn how to read.

Subs tested were

JL 13w7

RE SX 12

MTX 9500 12

DD 9500 12

Kicker L7 12

IDMAX 12

RF T1 12

Alpine Type X 12

Orion HCCA 12

Stroker Pro 12

and T3 Audio TSS 12

I was in search of the perfect 12 for me and the winner was the T3.

Top 4 all around were

T3

RE

Kicker

MTX

Top 3 in frequenct response (focusing on low frequency extension)

T3

MTX

JL

Top 3 in Accuracy was

T3

Kicker

RE

Top 3 in Durability (focusing on mechanical and thermal power handling)

T3

MTX

RE

Top 3 in SPL were

T3

Kicker

RE

For the record, I am not just some loser that lists the favorite subs that their buddy told them was the best.

I am an engineer that takes these tests very seriously and conduct them as unbiased as possible.

I conducted all my tests at multiple power levels, all in ported boxes and sealed boxes. I also tested them all in a hatch SUV (HHR) and in a trunk car, Mazda 6.

The results above are the overall results at the end.

 
Actually i think you should kill yourself....and leave....now! Your an idiot trying to sound smart and your not fooling anyone.
Kyle used to work for TC Sounds. I wouldn't be too quick to discount what it is he posts. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
Curious what your testing criteria consisted of. Box parameters for all subs tested, how you determined accuracy, etc...

I find it very difficult to believe that the same sub scored the highest in frequency response, accuracy and SPL. Very difficult. Kicker #2 in accuracy? Really? I haven't heard a kicker sub that I would call even sort of accurate since the days of the old round Competition subs with the gold logo.

 
For a while I ran an MTX 9512 on a 1501d and overall I was very pleased. I ended up selling it to a friend who ran a 1000 watt amp on it and it obviously wasn't quite as loud, but still was pleased. I then ran 4 12" L7s that were simply insane, I was very satisfied with their performance and price. If you can only run 1000 watts max, maybe look at 2 Kicker 12" L5s? I'm sure that would be pretty darn loud. I'm not really a single sub person anymore, get two.

 
Curious what your testing criteria consisted of. Box parameters for all subs tested, how you determined accuracy, etc...
I find it very difficult to believe that the same sub scored the highest in frequency response, accuracy and SPL. Very difficult. Kicker #2 in accuracy? Really? I haven't heard a kicker sub that I would call even sort of accurate since the days of the old round Competition subs with the gold logo.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/word.gif.64b12e39f936af3b4fff38a1c0bd0244.gif

To OP the idmax is a great sub i still have mine and completly love it. Its one of the best subs ive ever owned. If your more towards sq but want to get loud its the best pick of the ones you have listed thus far. And if your interested i can sell you mine:D

 
Kyle's earlier post was just pointing out what I meant in my earlier post: don't get too caught up in the nominal impedance of your subwoofer or the loads at which the amplifier is rated; just get an amp that is 2 ohm stable and puts out around what you're looking for, and the W7 will be your best choice. It is definitely the best sub of the bunch you're looking at, though you may prefer something more cost-effective.

Did you read what I wrote?I tested for SPL, Frequency response, accuracy, durability, and efficiency.
Aside from the questionable results, can you describe how you measured these things?

 
Curious what your testing criteria consisted of. Box parameters for all subs tested, how you determined accuracy, etc...
I find it very difficult to believe that the same sub scored the highest in frequency response, accuracy and SPL. Very difficult. Kicker #2 in accuracy? Really? I haven't heard a kicker sub that I would call even sort of accurate since the days of the old round Competition subs with the gold logo.
Just as a note, the listings of top 3 were very close in some of these categories.

For example,

The SPL readings in ported boxes were 4 tenths difference from #1 to #3.

I started off building a universal test box that I can adjust the volume and adjust port tuning. So I played with each sub and adjusted the box to find the optimal setup for each sub.

I used a Term Lab setup to test SPL, and used the Audio Control RTA to test frequency response.

I wanted to find the smoothest response from 20hz to 60hz. I did this in the same fashion that IASCA judges their cars but I only focused on bass.

I also backed up this testing by using the Termlab and played each frequency from 20-60hz individually and took my readings for each frequency.

Accuracy was measured by ear using various double bass tracks from Dream Theater and a few Buddy Rich albums.

And I also used the Tem Lab to view the sine wave movements.

Durability tests were easy. I started out playing a test tone with a measured 1000w. I used a 50hz tone for 10 minutes and all subs handled it. A few got hot and started smoking, but were not damaged.

Then I took power to 2000w and did the same test. A few subs blew a coil within 2 minutes.

The subs that did not blow hear went on to receive 3000w with music.

The top 3 were very close in this and actually tied. The DD was a super close 4th. There were only a few seconds difference in failure.

I wish I would of tested actual temperature of the voice coils to see what sub stayed the most cool, but I did not think of it at that time.

 
Kyle's earlier post was just pointing out what I meant in my earlier post: don't get too caught up in the nominal impedance of your subwoofer or the loads at which the amplifier is rated; just get an amp that is 2 ohm stable and puts out around what you're looking for, and the W7 will be your best choice. It is definitely the best sub of the bunch you're looking at, though you may prefer something more cost-effective.
Not to nitpick, but you and Kyle seem to be implying you know something we dont. You both keep saying dont bother with specs or nominal impedance, and then follow it up with 'just get something that does approx what you want at 2ohms'. Isn't that going by output specs and nominal impedance? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif
If you two are making the point that a minor variance in output ratings means little, i agree totally. But if your point is anything beyond that, I think it needs more explanation.

 
Big difference between "don't bother" and "don't get too caught up in".

Mr. Sass Pants. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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