What is recommended to run an Orion 2500d @.5 daily?

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='OmegaBunny']LOL Southern WV does ****, that's why I never go there! I live in the eastern Panhandle closer to Winchester, Va. We're close to DC, Baltimore, Pittsburgh, etc. Much nicer here.
@pro\-rabbit ; I would move but you know my wife is terrified of tornados [/QUOTE]

get your azz in Va.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

running a orion 2500d at .5ohm is a no no..... not unless you want to pay 250.00 to repair it after you kill the output section.......

tim webb will do it for bout 100-150 but prevention is an ounce of cure.

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

Hmm, i may just strap two 2500d's together later instead of risking the .5, I would think that 2ohms pushing close to 5k would be enough for your subs wouldnt it? That will also save my eletrical somewhat if I understand correctly. Maybe that would be a bit cheaper. Still would need the front battery and back battery, but wouldn't need near as much upgrading, even if I was to push say 3k, it would still be nice.

I will give you a little help to understand how much upgrading you will need to run what you are asking or thinking about.

I run a 5k amp. I have a 380amp alternator. Even when its making full output. Along with my 3 batteries. I still lose almost a whole volt from the current draw that the amp takes.

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

I go to VA sometimes, never really near Roanoke though. I usually stay up in the northern part of the state.

I run ~1700 with little to no drop on my stock alt, I think its 115 or 120a with a stock battery up front, HC2000 in the back and big three done. I am planning on going bigger eventually so I'm getting quotes on HO alts. Looking for a 270-350a depending on price.

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

For most applications, in order to run 3k you are going to need a HO alt since the amp can draw as much as 250a assuming its 100% effecient. Real world may be more like 200 - 225a but thats still a lot of juice. By the time you buy enough batteries to support that you might as well go ahead and get the alt and a big battery or two.
Also, even if you buy 3 or 4 big batteries, you still need to be able to keep up with the charging demand and a stock alt will typically be a chocking point in the system.

For daily, yes. You can get away with not upgrading your alternator and still run 3k with a decent batt bank as long as you don't crank it every single time you drive somewhere and give the batts a good charge every weekend.

Been running 2 D9's at 1 ohm each (have not clamped or know avg imp rise), stock 130a alt (for now) 7 batts. XS power 12v/16v intelli charger every weekend, voltage doesn't drop any lower than 12.8v (and I crank it every time I drive).

I do agree that the OP needs to save a bit more to run that amp sufficiently even at a lower nominal impedance.

 

[stephens30228 10+ year member]

Alright, well looks like I will be saving up for a while after I get my main components and just keep watching threads about wiring and such. Because I don't know anything about "keeping it on charge" on the weekends and such. I just kinda jumped in the game and started trying to run straight off the rip. I get very impatient, but I don't want to blow anything.

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

All,

Right now the OP is strapped for cash. All this upgrading his electrical help is appreciated, I even said to do so as well through PMs but since his money is low and he was going to run the amp at 2 ohms. I suggested he get 1 100ah+ battery, a smaller AGM to replace the front stage battery, and do the big 3. In time, when money allows, he will upgrade his electrical system further

 

[stephens30228 10+ year member]

All,
Right now the OP is strapped for cash. All this upgrading his electrical help is appreciated, I even said to do so as well through PMs but since his money is low and he was going to run the amp at 2 ohms. I suggested he get 1 100ah+ battery, a smaller AGM to replace the front stage battery, and do the big 3. In time, when money allows, he will upgrade his electrical system further

Thank you, your right about all of that. I already looking into a battery in my area, and will be attempting the big 3 this next weekend with my extra power wire. I was just planning for the future since my wife was asking what all it was going to take to shut me up lol

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

Alright, well looks like I will be saving up for a while after I get my main components and just keep watching threads about wiring and such. Because I don't know anything about "keeping it on charge" on the weekends and such. I just kinda jumped in the game and started trying to run straight off the rip. I get very impatient, but I don't want to blow anything.

Like I said through PMs, for now run the amp at 2 ohms and just purchase what you can with upgrades later. That will be sufficient enough to run at 2 ohms while doing small upgrades to your electrical system since you have very little patience (don't worry, we all do. It happens to the best of us).

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

For daily, yes. You can get away with not upgrading your alternator and still run 3k with a decent batt bank as long as you don't crank it every single time you drive somewhere and give the batts a good charge every weekend.
Been running 2 D9's at 1 ohm each (have not clamped or know avg imp rise), stock 130a alt (for now) 7 batts. XS power 12v/16v intelli charger every weekend, voltage doesn't drop any lower than 12.8v (and I crank it every time I drive).

I do agree that the OP needs to save a bit more to run that amp sufficiently even at a lower nominal impedance.

You proved my point for me. You have 7 batteries on a stock alternator and are still dropping to 12.8v. Even for the cheapest XS Power batteries, $99 shipped new on Amazon, you are still looking at $700 and you still can't bang all day long and need to charge them every weekend. That should tell you that your electrical system is not effectively charging the batteries and keeping up with demand. Add in a HO alt and you no longer have to charge every weekend and you can bang all day while keeping you voltage around 14v.

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

OP on you stock alt, grab a second battery for the rear (even a small one), do the big three, and run your amp at 2ohms. You'll be fine. One ~1200-1500w you should be able to wang away with little voltage drop.

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

Sorry, thought they could be strapped, even then, I can run 1 to each speaker, that will give me 1ohm right? Though I am not sure about how that would work with them being the same box.

You dont have to strap amps for the to work together. You can gain match the amps using a DMM and adjust the crossovers evenly (since they are the same model amp) by using the dials on each amp.

Yeah, I misunderstood how it worked I guess. I thought that I could run more wattage at 2 than one because it was more efficient.

He is right about this.

How much can I run off of 130amp alternator? One HC2000 up front and one HC2000 in the back okay?

At 2 ohms, yes. You'd need more power if wired at 0.5 ohms with the amp at it's max unclipped power. Even after rise...

 

[Villeza1 10+ year member]

You proved my point for me. You have 7 batteries on a stock alternator and are still dropping to 12.8v. Even for the cheapest XS Power batteries, $99 shipped new on Amazon, you are still looking at $700 and you still can't bang all day long and need to charge them every weekend. That should tell you that your electrical system is not effectively charging the batteries and keeping up with demand. Add in a HO alt and you no longer have to charge every weekend and you can bang all day while keeping you voltage around 14v.

Just stating that it was doable. And you see how much power I'm running, 7 batts is more than enough.

EDIT: Also, an alternator isn't going to charge your AGM batts back to full capacity. It'll only get it back to 75% + so an external charger (intelli chargers for AGMs) is needed to keep them healthy and to get them back to 100%.

 

[ampjunkielikeme 10+ year member]

tim webb will do it for bout 100-150 but prevention is an ounce of cure.

yes sir...

tim is good dude.... but if he is charging that to completely rebuild both driver cards, replacing all the outputs, and gate resistors. he is loosing money..... lol

the outputs for that amp are not cheap... ($75-$90 in just outputs) for the last one i rebuilt.. so if tim will rebuild the whole output section for 75.00 labor. then im going to start sending him all my 2500d's...lol

there is a difference when you "repair" the amp. and when you "rebuild" the amp... at least to me it is..

repair= just replace the bad parts and get the amp up and running....

rebuild= replace every ouput, gate resistors, and the entire drive section with brand new transistors, diodes..etc..... even if the other parts were still good.....

^^^^^ this is the best way to fix an amp. it makes it more reliable. but it's more expensive this way... i wont half *** any amp that comes across my bench..

 

[stephens30228 10+ year member]

Okay so here is my question now that y'all have helped me in knowing where I'm screwing up. With one 100ah battery in the back and the big 3 done, how many watts is a safe estimate I could run for the time being?