What is involved in a good install?

Install on a solid surface (i.e. if you are using plastic speaker mounts, replace them with wood, etc etc). Make sure the speaker and doors are properly sealed.

Also, spending the time to properly phase and level match the mids and tweets, as well as using the most appropriate xover point(s). Proper speaker placement and aiming. Proper equalization if you have it. If you have subs, then properly integrating the sub and mid transition, and level matching the mid to the subs.

 
Make the mount for the speakers as solid as possible. If you push on the sheetmetal surrounding the mount and it flexes, you are losing energy in the form of sound. This is why in some vehicles even though the speaker fits, you see them mounted to resined mdf or aluminum.

 
So how would I make them as solid as possible. This is off topic but would I need a crossover if I am running two amps after a fused distro block? I saw this on bcae1.com and I wasn't sure and thought I would ask.

 
So how would I make them as solid as possible. This is off topic but would I need a crossover if I am running two amps after a fused distro block? I saw this on bcae1.com and I wasn't sure and thought I would ask.
Crossovers and power wires are unrelated.

That's the other point that should be considered as well in a good install: tuning. Crossovers help distribute the appropriate frequencies to your components for sound quality purposes. There are two different type of crossovers which are passive and active. Passives are fixed crossover units that are usually wired between the speaker and the amplifier. Active crossovers are variable filter units that require its own power and usually wired with signal through your RCA's.

 
So how would I go about making the mounting surface as solid as possible? And would anyone recommend speaker baffles? Is there a correct way to seal the doors and speakers?

 
So how would I go about making the mounting surface as solid as possible? And would anyone recommend speaker baffles? Is there a correct way to seal the doors and speakers?

As I said in my original post......if the mounting surface isn't solid, doing something such as using MDF baffles (instead of plastic or metal) is helpful. Some people even make a "brace" that goes behind the speaker and connects one side of the mounting surface to the other to help bridge them together to gain strength.

 
sorry to jack the thread but this is related. whats the best way to get/make mdf baffles? Do you basically have to buy a plank and cut it yourself? I suppose I could go to the art school woodshop and ask for some help, but that seems like a pain. Right now my speakers are mounted in a plastic mount that actually seems pretty solid, could I just dynamat the inside of the mount instead of replacing it with mdf?

 
i find the best way to get the best sound out of any system is do to these:

-Dont run any power wires close to any rca wires, itll cause a low hising in your speakers.

-always mount everything on a flush surface and make sure it is completely sealed, youll notice a huge difference in this if you are installing subs.

-aside from dynomatting your trunk stuffing your sub box also increases the quality of the sound.

-dont take any short cuts, make sure all connects are connected correctly and strongly.

-if you want to get real drastic you can rewire the whole audio system, it wont make a big difference but it will be noticable.

-if you are putting in tweeters be sure to add a bass blocker it will increase the sound quailty and life of the tweeter as well as cut down on distortion of it.

-and take your time and double check everything, no use blowing a good speaker or buring out your deck or amp from a stupid mistake.

 
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