well you wont be running a 4 channel with bridged with 450 watts per 6.5 so it will be just right for your setup with the amount of power you plan on putting it on with just 145 watts per channel. Either way if you want to enjoy music, network mode is a must. If you just want weak sounding noise, then get a head unit without network mode and slap on a pair of components.I don't have any plans of going that far, but thank yall for the info. It's good to know to kind of "future proof." If your running 4 18's on 30k watts and that speaker keeps up, wouldn't that be a little overkill if I'm only going 2 12's on 5k?
i have some ******* prosound drivers that eat tge prosound drivers ***. i MIGHT sell them. I was going to use them but I just lost my I am and I'm not quite sure if I can get power to them they need about 200 per driver.Well loud with good SQ, not just ear ripping loudness. What brand/model do you recommend?
What kind? Theres some asterisks lol.i have some ******* prosound drivers that eat tge prosound drivers ***. i MIGHT sell them. I was going to use them but I just lost my I am and I'm not quite sure if I can get power to them they need about 200 per driver.No actually built the sound extremely good and get Extremely Loud
McCauley.com : HomeWhat kind? Theres some asterisks lol.
McCauley.com : Homethe 8" line array driver.
I just got home from a member here plug them up for about 15 minutes and realize that I might not be able to get a lot of power for him without going with a dirt cheap amp I had a hundred bucks to on them and it wasn't enough you need at least 200 by 2 more like three hundred by 2 but they're far far better than any PRO Sound mid-range you will buy without spending an arm and a leg and **** sure better than any car audio PRO Sound that sounds fantastic and they play well pass 1500 Hertz. I'm pondering on selling them selling them I'm not quite sure just yet but if you're interested I'll probably let them go and get something a tad more efficient
I didn't get a chance to run both of them yet I just mocked up mounting bracket in my door and tried one and in my amp decided to **** on me but I will say it is a PA driver it's not going to drop into the sub base I had across that 60 and then drop down low and it sounded extremely natural once I get I knew amps in I will give them both a try I just had to build some custom door panels and I've been working my *** off so I never really got around to putting but one in I'm just putting it out there just in case I decide to go with a more midbass dedicated type driver.I have zero experience with home speakers in a car setting. do they work in a similar way or is there tweaking you have to do?
By the way I've been building subs for about 5 years now and just started building my own mid ranges the picture you see next to my name is one of my mid rangesI have zero experience with home speakers in a car setting. do they work in a similar way or is there tweaking you have to do?
I wouldn't lol. Car environments change things up a lot. A lot of the home speakers dont really work that well in a car environment unless you fully do acoustical treatments, not just deadening but wave, angle and reflection control as well, sometimes needing to make a dedicated fiberglass speaker pod to get a proper QTS enclosure to make the speaker perform right. They look good on paper and graphs but when you stick them in a car environment with just basic deadening and no other treatments, their performance gets fked up real bad. While car designed speakers look horrible on paper and graphs but when you stick them in a car environment, they measure up A LOT better.I have zero experience with home speakers in a car setting. do they work in a similar way or is there tweaking you have to do?
this is a pa driver for line array. not home audio. fyi. and its far superior than those pvrs. trust me..I wouldn't lol. Car environments change things up a lot. A lot of the home speakers dont really work that well in a car environment unless you fully do acoustical treatments, not just deadening but wave, angle and reflection control as well, sometimes needing to make a dedicated fiberglass speaker pod to get a proper QTS enclosure to make the speaker perform right. They look good on paper and graphs but when you stick them in a car environment with just basic deadening and no other treatments, their performance gets fked up real bad. While car designed speakers look horrible on paper and graphs but when you stick them in a car environment, they measure up A LOT better.
I doubt it with with how inefficient they sound lol. My prvs get loud and sound great even at full range signal playing up to 12khz on head unit power capable of keeping up with a decent substage already with just 10 watts. They just become monsters when you throw ridiculous amounts of power onto them.this is a pa driver for line array. not home audio. fyi. and its far superior than those pvrs. trust me..
Only real difference between most car audio loudspeakers and home audio loudspeakers are the suspension ones design for free air ones design for ported enclosures. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gifI wouldn't lol. Car environments change things up a lot. A lot of the home speakers dont really work that well in a car environment unless you fully do acoustical treatments, not just deadening but wave, angle and reflection control as well, sometimes needing to make a dedicated fiberglass speaker pod to get a proper QTS enclosure to make the speaker perform right. They look good on paper and graphs but when you stick them in a car environment with just basic deadening and no other treatments, their performance gets fked up real bad. While car designed speakers look horrible on paper and graphs but when you stick them in a car environment, they measure up A LOT better.
exactly that makes a huge difference on actual performance, no one is gonna do a ported enclosure in a fking car door lol.Only real difference between most car audio loudspeakers and home audio loudspeakers are the suspension ones design for free air ones design for ported enclosures. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Yeah definitely way too much for me.I wouldn't lol. Car environments change things up a lot. A lot of the home speakers dont really work that well in a car environment unless you fully do acoustical treatments, not just deadening but wave, angle and reflection control as well, sometimes needing to make a dedicated fiberglass speaker pod to get a proper QTS enclosure to make the speaker perform right. They look good on paper and graphs but when you stick them in a car environment with just basic deadening and no other treatments, their performance gets fked up real bad. While car designed speakers look horrible on paper and graphs but when you stick them in a car environment, they measure up A LOT better.
A lot of them are interchangeable though for instance a lot of people use these drivers which are primarily built for home audio and they do pretty decent in carsexactly that makes a huge difference on actual performance, no one is gonna do a ported enclosure in a fking car door lol.