What high / midrange speakers to get with setup?

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

A lot of them are interchangeable though for instance a lot of people use these drivers which are primarily built for home audio and they do pretty decent in cars

thats what i thought too when i tried out sb acoustics and some dayton mids and tweets. The couldn't hold a candle to the pwx and my massive tweets sad to say. In both raw performance and fully tuned performance. Maybe slightly deeper midbass but midrange detail and clarity the pwx actually won out. Plenty of people tried my ct2 tweets and one of them chaseinbass was using cdt HD tweets. He said it was the biggest upgrade he did all year.

 

[Jcsaudio]

I’m using some Dayton Audio ND140-4 5-1/4" Aluminum Cone Midbass Drivers and some Tang Band 25-302SH 1" Neodymium Dome Tweeters in an active two way setup with a JL Audio W3V3-4 ported subwoofer with just 40 wpc to each mid woofer and roughly 25 wpc to each tweeter. The sub is getting 200 watts rms and everything is controlled from a JL Twk 88 DSP and the sound quality is phenomenal in my regular cab 14 F150 XL. Typically mid bass drivers made for a car door or infinite baffle situation have small magnets and a high QTS with a stiff suspension. Total cost for the mid bass and tweeter drivers was just $103.62. No way anyone would beat the sound quality of these drivers with a car audio specific set for that price. The guys at work who have heard them in my truck don’t believe it.

Using home audio drivers in a vehicle is nothing new and depending on what you are trying to achieve, they can be great for sound quality on a budget. When selecting mid bass drivers you need to pay attention to the ts parameters and power handling of the driver published by the manufacturers. Of course car audio specific drivers are better suited for car door use but you usually pay a whole lot more for those drivers if you want the best SQ such as JL, Focal, or Morel. It’s very easy to get high qaulity tweeters though for much less money than what manufacturers charge for ones that are labeled for car audio use. This is especially true in component sets where I’ve personally found those tweeters to be small form factor with a high fs and lacking in SQ.

Some of the underground brands though still have nice stuff. Jeff pointed out to me the CT2 tweeters, which I have in my garage ready to try in place of my Morel MTD-12 tweeters as I slowly upgrade my Mazda CX-5 sound system. I will be running this system active too using a JL TwK 88 DSP too. Also have the NVX version of the SB Acoustics mid bass drivers for it too that will take the place where I have Polk mid woofers now from an old component system I bought yers ago.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

thats what i thought too when i tried out sb acoustics and some dayton mids and tweets. The couldn't hold a candle to the pwx and my massive tweets sad to say. In both raw performance and fully tuned performance. Maybe slightly deeper midbass but midrange detail and clarity the pwx actually won out. Plenty of people tried my ct2 tweets and one of them chaseinbass was using cdt HD tweets. He said it was the biggest upgrade he did all year.

no offense but thats bad choices. find something with a low RMS and middle road QES. im more concerned about the cars acoustics VS drivers granted the drivers are properly designed.. you didn't like the CDT DRT26s?

 

[Jcsaudio]

Just re-read your original post Snails so ignore what I wrote as it doesn’t apply to what you’re looking for. I will say though that those two FI Subwoofer are likely going to break stuff in that Maxima on 5000 watts RMS especially if they are ported to specifications. that’s just going to be insane. Of course with Jeff’s ride, I cannot even imagine how loud that is on 30k.