What do you know about a 100% DD setup?

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

changing even a little is still changing to much, how hard is it for a company to take a sub that they have plenty of break it in and then give real specs? I don't know how many times 3rd party test show that even prebroken in subs t/s are different then posted. You want real t/s find them your self a wt2 is cheap as hell.

DD does post t/s anyway

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

yea... i mean im fine with the numbers vs the money in it. i mean i was wanting to be at least at a 150db. but i just run a standard blazer. i could probly do it with a wall but im married so i aint gonna do that lol. i may add a 2nd 18" later or somthing tho..

Lol no need to wall for a 150. Can do it with a couple 12s if you do it right.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

in a 1995 blazer you can do 150 under window with a single 12

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

changing even a little is still changing to much, how hard is it for a company to take a sub that they have plenty of break it in and then give real specs? I don't know how many times 3rd party test show that even prebroken in subs t/s are different then posted. You want real t/s find them your self a wt2 is cheap as hell.
DD does post t/s anyway

So you have no answer other than "any change is too much"?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

the reason they don't is because published t/s are usually so far off they are worthless. taken from a single non broken in driver is going to be much different then a broken in sub with slightly different parts

T/S specs should be measured with a broken-in driver, obviously. And I would expect DD to use parts consistent enough to not alter t/s specs noticeably.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

DD does post t/s anyway

Where?

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Where?

DD Audio: Mobile Audio | Woofers | 2500 Series

Scroll down and click on "Specs"

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

Where?

under specs

DD Audio: Mobile Audio | Woofers | 1000 Series | Specs

and yes any change is to much change, t/s mean little any way unless you drive your subs with 1watt

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I've always wonder why some insist they are so different after break-in. Just going off what I have seen people(mainly "underground" companies) post of new vs broken in subs, there's really not much of a difference. The Fs and Qts drops a little, and the Vas goes up a little...which is to be expected in practically every single case. But nothing seems to be glaringly different that would warrant a complete disregard of the t/s.
So basically I'm just wondering what makes you say that the specs are worthless and change so much after break-in, because I have seen a few people make this same argument when it seems like(to me at least) it's not the case.

I maintain that it's largely psycho-somantic and a method for companies to weasel out of honoring warranties. It is likely that you are also on the right track as far as just varience between one to the next right off the assembly line and such.

In truth the 10% or so changes that have been measured after stretching suspension should be nearly inaudible, and a poorly built woofer will fail whether you baby it for a month or bang it like a cheap hooker right out the gate.

 

[thevic24 5,000+ posts]

In truth the 10% or so changes that have been measured after stretching suspension should be nearly inaudible, and a poorly built woofer will fail whether you baby it for a month or bang it like a cheap hooker right out the gate.

True. Out of the many DD woofers that I have owned, my current 1508 with the extra stiff option was the only one I noticed a real difference in after some good, hard play time.

Other than that one, I have noticed no real difference in any of the others. I am currently running a 3512d1 SC with the extra spider. I have been running it for almost a year.

I let that thing have hell from the get go.

The 1508 started life with power from a Fusion NVam 2500.1d @ 1 ohm.

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

in a 1995 blazer you can do 150 under window with a single 12

playing music?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

under specsDD Audio: Mobile Audio | Woofers | 1000 Series | Specs

and yes any change is to much change, t/s mean little any way unless you drive your subs with 1watt

Ah I see. But, if t/s specs are so worthless, what do you think manufacturers design by/with/in relation to? T/S being worthless is DD propaganda.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

Ah I see. But, if t/s specs are so worthless, what do you think manufacturers design by/with/in relation to? T/S being worthless is DD propaganda.

um no DD has never said that, I said that. Plenty of these ''designers'' can't do much real designing anyway. they use t/s specs in half space to design an enclosure for a car, I'm sure that works well.

and yes playing music legal on dash

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

um no DD has never said that, I said that. Plenty of these ''designers'' can't do much real designing anyway. they use t/s specs in half space to design an enclosure for a car, I'm sure that works well.

and yes playing music legal on dash

DD has said that. Look at their 'specs' for the Z series.

Im not interested in your opinion of 'plenty' of designers. If the 'good' designers dont use t/s as a reference, what do they design by?

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

DD has said that. Look at their 'specs' for the Z series.
Im not interested in your opinion of 'plenty' of designers. If the 'good' designers dont use t/s as a reference, what do they design by?

if your going to try and design a spl enclosure off of t/s specs you don't deserve to own that driver. DD also doesn't recommend that driver for music cars either.

and I havn't seen a designer in a long time that doesn't just sell guesses from t/s and 1/2 space calculations. Some use ''simulated'' cabin gain but that is still a guess. Real not published 3rd party tested t/s give you a decent starting part but that's about it.