What do I need to change?

[Sguirrelfeather]

I admit I'm nowhere near the knowledge level of you guys when it comes to car audio, but I don't think I'm a total idiot, either. That being said, I'd like a little help improving my current system. The reason? Well, a guy I know was bragging on his system and how good it sounded, and he wanted me to listen to it. He knows just about nothing about car audio. He installed two 6x9's on a wooden panel along with a couple tweets and mids, then placed that panel behind the rear seat in his Sorento. He also installed two 12's in a generic box and threw that in the rear cargo area. All of this is supplemental to the stock system. I don't know what his amps are like, but even the stereo is stock. And as to how much he knows....he said he wants to install 00 power cables to make it go louder, and thinks it's cool that his dashboard lights dim when the bass hits. So, I sit in the car, he turns on the tunes, and I am amazed!! Clear, brilliant highs. Deep, thumping lows. Crisp mids. *giant sadface*

So, I want to see what can be done to improve my setup. I'm sure I could go with different speakers, and maybe a different head unit and/or a DSP. The DSP is in the plans eventually. I currently have the following:

JVC KW-R910BT head unit

FSD FZ-2600D subwoofer amp (currently set to 1400 watts)

CT Sounds AT-150.6d amp for all mid/high (set to 75 watts)

JBL GTO-509C 5 1/4" / 3/4" components in all six positions

American Bass XFL-1544 15" sub in a custom T-line box built by CSCStang

Dual batts (regular lead-acid, 1000 amp each)

250 amp Mechman alternator (zero light dim no matter what I have things set at)

Big-3 with 00 cable

00 power and ground cable for amps, with ground straight to battery

I am not opposed to changing out speakers or adding speakers. I AM opposed to deleting amps, but not to adding them. I do have a second sub available, so I won't be changing subs, but would be open to a design incorporating the second 15. As for budget, I'm not a banker, but not broke either. How about let's keep it realistic for a daily driver? lol

I have gutted the entire interior and done selective placement of CLD with around 30% coverage, complete coverage from the windows down with CCF and MLV, and even have some of the hollow areas packed with foam. I drive a Ford Excursion. Now, just in case you don't know, this thing is HUGE. Cargo area BEHIND the front seats is 165 cuft!! Its just a LOT of area to fill with sound. Here are some pics so you can get an idea of what I'm dealing with here.

This is just to give you an idea of the overall size of my interior. It does not include the rear cargo space behind that third seat, though.



Here is how big the rear cargo area is.



Speaker placement for rear seating. Arrow shows stock location where I have the 5 1/4" placed. Red dot shows where the 3/4" tweeters are installed.



Speaker placement for middle seats.



Speaker placement for front seats....two shots just to give a better visual.

Click to read more...

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

on another note you don't sound like a complete fool so ill give you some advice. i just saveed a ton of money by combining my home and car insurance with geico..

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

dude thats not cool^ u need to get a hobby beside messing with peeps on this site.. this is a new guy he doesn't understand u have mental problems..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

dude thats not cool^ u need to get a hobby beside messing with peeps on this site.. this is a new guy he doesn't understand u have mental problems..

what you mean? i gave him good advice!

 

[Mímir]

what exactly are you looking to improve? Aver all loudness and detail? more subass? a wider frequency response? better image? more midbass/range/ more topend?

right off the back i know your seriously lack in output from 200 down to 60.

are you willing to modify anything or do you want to keep it relativity simple?

for example this would be a easy drop in with little modification and i'm sure you amps xover would cover the midwoofer with the other set passive bridged on the front two channels you would just basically need to do some small pillar builds for the tweeter and midrange.

https://www.cdtaudio.com/main_series/hd/hd821le.php you could rige the two front channels and run these passsive. they need about 350 to 400 per side to get off and are by all means a very decent set for the Money. for another 150 bucks you could upgrade the 2" driver the the ES 2 and the tweeter to the DRT-26 aluminum. if you could do the factory location for the 8s then build lil pods for the 2' and 1" tweeter you would be set! if you dont want to modify hte door for the 8s these will do equally as good https://www.cdtaudio.com/6x9/es0690gold.php

 

[Mímir]

Also you could consider this if you don't have time alignment..

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/assembled-crossovers/minidsp-2x4-digital-signal-processor/?gclid=CjwKEAjwja_JBRD8idHpxaz0t3wSJAB4rXW55ZMLjeR6TPwGVIbzIB7S7hTo52Rs1eK0pagIySG2yxoCzFHw_wcB

 

[Mímir]

oh and throw that JVC out the window on the way to pick this unit up..

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DDX794/Kenwood-Excelon-DDX794.html?tp=72406

this is just something that would be EASY and cost effective and give you an instant upgrade. id probably leaves hte backs alone since you probably not going to hear them much. you have some many options i won't even think about it..

 

[Sguirrelfeather]

Google translate *****, but something about tell you more about my grand project??? Meh....if you can't assist a guy, you're not worthy of using Gene in a meme. And I've been around long enough to know which players are which around here. lol

I've read what some people like, what brands are decent, etc etc. Just trying to get some opinions. And yup, opinions are like ash-holes..everyone's got one and they usually stink.

 

[Sguirrelfeather]

what exactly are you looking to improve? Aver all loudness and detail? more subass? a wider frequency response? better image? more midbass/range/ more topend?
right off the back i know your seriously lack in output from 200 down to 60.

are you willing to modify anything or do you want to keep it relativity simple?

Definitely willing to do a little modification...that's part of the fun. I don't know how else to say it, and I know it's difficult to assist when you can't hear it. Loudness is fine. I can't converse with someone in the seat next to me when it's cranked, so I'd say that's plenty loud. Less muddy? More clear? It's just not all that I would want. lol I know, so specific, huh? And to be honest, I don't even know what image is.

And what positions would you recommend for those drivers?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Definitely willing to do a little modification...that's part of the fun. I don't know how else to say it, and I know it's difficult to assist when you can't hear it. Loudness is fine. I can't converse with someone in the seat next to me when it's cranked, so I'd say that's plenty loud. Less muddy? More clear? It's just not all that I would want. lol I know, so specific, huh? And to be honest, I don't even know what image is.
And what positions would you recommend for those drivers?

Your head unit is complete junk. I'd swap that out immediately. IMMEDIATELY.

16 bit dac, no tuning options ex: time alignment, EQ. = horrible sound from the start and no room for any improvement afterwards. Also JVC/Kenwoods have a very laid back sound signature so that can be misconstrued as muddy and dull a lot of times without proper adjustments.

get something with a 24 bit dac, at least 13 bands of EQ and time alignment and active networks. I'd get rid of the passive crossovers on those components completely and do full active.

I'd also get rid of one of the sets or leave it on head unit power and focus your power into a 3 way front hybrid instead with a 6.5 midbass in the kick panel.

so you have two sets of tweeters and two sets of mids. Head unit in active network mode meaning you will not have front and rear controls and the RCA outputs will become HIGH, MID, and LOW(subwoofer)

tweeters will be on channel 1 and 2 high passed crossed over from anywhere between 2khz to 5khz on the head unit, connected on the HIGH output rca

mids and midbass will be on the MID rca output crossed over 80 high pass to 5000hz low pass(more or less depending on what your vehicle acoustics call for, you'll have to play around with the tune). The MID rca output will be split so it will go to channel 3 and 4 (midrange) and 5 + 6 for midbass

mids will be on channel 3 and 4 will be high passed crossed over at the AMP from 500hz to 5000hz

Midbass will be low passed at 500hz on channel 5 and 6.

As for midbass look at silverflute 6.5s in a kick panel enclosure.

All this will cost you is a new active capable head unit which is 99 to 300$ depending on your preference. Pioneer mvh x580bs is the cheapest at 99 dollars but still infinitely better than your current head unit. 80 prs is the best SQ option at 260. Pioneer 2800bs, 3800bs to 4800bs are middle of the road SQ with touch screen and other apps + looks Etc... All of those will have what you need tuning wise.

The kick panel enclosure will be around 200 or less if you make it yourself then its around 50 bucks. Silverflutes are 60 for a pair.

spending about $$$210 to 560$$ depending on what you want.

report back when you have it set up and i'll help you with the tuning.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I admit I'm nowhere near the knowledge level of you guys when it comes to car audio, but I don't think I'm a total idiot, either. That being said, I'd like a little help improving my current system. The reason? Well, a guy I know was bragging on his system and how good it sounded, and he wanted me to listen to it. He knows just about nothing about car audio. He installed two 6x9's on a wooden panel along with a couple tweets and mids, then placed that panel behind the rear seat in his Sorento. He also installed two 12's in a generic box and threw that in the rear cargo area. All of this is supplemental to the stock system. I don't know what his amps are like, but even the stereo is stock. And as to how much he knows....he said he wants to install 00 power cables to make it go louder, and thinks it's cool that his dashboard lights dim when the bass hits. So, I sit in the car, he turns on the tunes, and I am amazed!! Clear, brilliant highs. Deep, thumping lows. Crisp mids. *giant sadface*

thats more or less just his stock system with added bass. Most stock systems are pretty good and the head unit's EQ curve and stock time alignment etc actually works real well with the door speakers. A lot of stock setups nowadays flat out destroy cheap to mediocre aftermarket swaps in sound quality people dont know anything about that fact and start swapping out speakers thinking it'll be an improvement without having proper processing to actually tune the setup. aka your setup. Head unit/processing makes EVERY bit of difference you can ever imagine. Speaker quality, amp quality, none of that matters compared to processing power its even more superior to a good install/deadening which is a close 2nd place. Thats the one thing you dont have with your JVC head unit which sets the whole setup for failure.

 

[Mímir]

go to the build log section and you can get some ideas on what woks good. if it where up to me I'd do fully active with a DSP.

despite the neutral rep CDT gets here there stuff is good. its all in the installation and tune. the DRT-26s are very nice unless you move up to something like dynaudio rainbow or focals high end line(400=500 for tweeters alone). Ive personally used hte DEs active with the silk DRT-26 on a 100x4 with a kenwood x991(had 3 dacs for the 3 outputs tweeter midrange and sub). i wish i would have NEVER SOLD IT. i paid 500 for the last display model they retailed for 799. god it made more pioneer deh p8800 or wtf even sound like ****..

just as a baseline what id do would be

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs225-4-8-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-376 $125

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-midrange/sb-acoustics-sb12nrxf25-4-4-midrange-4-ohm/ $105

ES-010 - CDT Audio Ultra High High-End 1" Silk Dome Tweeters very smooth yet detailed $175

DSP-Z8 - Zapco 8-Channel Full Digital Signal Processor $475

That should get you a very good sounding system. I wouldn't say show stopping but done right it has the potential to sound great and get plenty loud.. just to give you an idea what what you can do. they have some many options its more of a matter of budget and preference.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

the speakers he has already has capability and potential along with him pretty dead set on having rear fill since its a giant car. Processing and tuning would be the first thing i'd do

That kenwood head unit is basically simplified tuning for dummies more than anything my buddy has that exact model in his jeep patriot. The reason why you dont like the advanced head units is because you dont know how to properly utilize them. That kenwood, takes less than 5 mins with all their audio and DAP options to get a proper tune even with playing with the parametric eq. You can more or less get the same results or better with a more advanced head unit.

 

[Mímir]

matter fact you could keep the JBLs and go active just add a midbass.. you cold for now get a very nice midbass and if you decide upgrade the mids and tweeters later..

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/satori-mw19pnw-4-white-egyptian-reed-cone-woofer/

 

[dsw1204]

Most of your equipment is fairly decent, except for the head unit. I'd switch that out, get that Kenwood that was recommended. With the 24 bit DAC and 5 volt preouts, that, alone, puts it way out in front of your current head unit. I'm not one much for having gobs of features in my head unit, but most people are and that Kenwood is feature rich.

Outside of going active, as recommended earlier, about the only thing I'd recommend is to deaden your doors. If you did that and nothing else, you will see a noticeable improvement in SQ.

 

---------- Post added at 11:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:55 PM ----------

 

Most of your equipment is fairly decent, except for the head unit. I'd switch that out, get that Kenwood that was recommended. With the 24 bit DAC and 5 volt preouts, that, alone, puts it way out in front of your current head unit. I'm not one much for having gobs of features in my head unit, but most people are and that Kenwood is feature rich.

Outside of going active, as recommended earlier, about the only thing I'd recommend is to deaden your doors. If you did that and nothing else, you will see a noticeable improvement in SQ.