what battery for 3000 watts?

[Based]

I'm reading the chart on XS Power website and I have a question. The chart is right here:

Wattage Chart - XS Power

So if they say secondary-1000 watts, that means having that battery as a secondary will be able to support 1000 MORE watts than just your up front battery? And what about the primary? If I use the D925 as a primary battery, it can only do 1000 watts? But as a secondary it can support 2000?

Does anyone have any opinions on XS Power vs Kinetic? XS Power is a lot cheaper than Kinetic.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

xs is better than kinetik. Just get a group 31

 

[Based]

xs is better than kinetik. Just get a group 31

This?

https://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-commercial-battery-group-size-31c/prod3590235

 

[Hertz Mafia]

This?
https://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-commercial-battery-group-size-31c/prod3590235

https://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232

This one^

 

[Based]

https://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232
This one^

Oh ok thanks. How many watts will my primary battery plus that one as a secondary be able to support? Is there a specific spec I should be looking at to see how many watts it can support?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Oh ok thanks. How many watts will my primary battery plus that one as a secondary be able to support? Is there a specific spec I should be looking at to see how many watts it can support?

add until your volts stay above 12.6. Magic formula for if you are relying on battery reserve only to power your sh*t. For alts, keep adding alts till you get above 13.8 at the worst drops.

 

[Based]

add until your volts stay above 12.6. Magic formula for if you are relying on battery reserve only to power your sh*t. For alts, keep adding alts till you get above 13.8 at the worst drops.

Well I don't think anyone makes alternators for my car. It's a 2016 Ford Fiesta ST. I don't plan on going over 2000 - 3000 watts so I was thinking I could get by with just the biggest battery I can fit up front and do the big 3, and then one or two extra batteries in the back. All 1/0 of course.

If I get an amp that does 2000@1 ohm, and I'm rising to 3 or 4 ohms, does my electrical only "see" whatever my amp is clamping at that impedance or does it see 2000? Because for what I want to do, all I want is too CLAMP around 1500.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Unless you are going to run the system with tge car off get a alternator.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Well I don't think anyone makes alternators for my car. It's a 2016 Ford Fiesta ST. I don't plan on going over 2000 - 3000 watts so I was thinking I could get by with just the biggest battery I can fit up front and do the big 3, and then one or two extra batteries in the back. All 1/0 of course.
If I get an amp that does 2000@1 ohm, and I'm rising to 3 or 4 ohms, does my electrical only "see" whatever my amp is clamping at that impedance or does it see 2000? Because for what I want to do, all I want is too CLAMP around 1500.

your amp will see a few hundred watts depending on frequency. Not gonna be anymore than 1000 watts if you rise 3 to 4 ohms.

Upgrading all this ahead of time is useless just install a voltmeter in the dash and wire it directly to the power and ground inputs of your amp then put in your amp you plan on running, Set gains and see your initial voltage drop and figure out what you need later and upgrade accordingly. My buddy handled his 1500 watt amp just fine at 13.3 volts bare bone stock electrical in his explorer. didnt need to do any electrical upgrade.

 

[Based]

your amp will see a few hundred watts depending on frequency. Not gonna be anymore than 1000 watts if you rise 3 to 4 ohms.
Upgrading all this ahead of time is useless just install a voltmeter in the dash and wire it directly to the power and ground inputs of your amp then put in your amp you plan on running, Set gains and see your initial voltage drop and figure out what you need later and upgrade accordingly. My buddy handled his 1500 watt amp just fine at 13.3 volts bare bone stock electrical in his explorer. didnt need to do any electrical upgrade.

Alright yeah I gotcha.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

I was thinking I could get by with just the biggest battery I can fit up front and do the big 3, and then one or two extra batteries in the back. All 1/0 of course.

It'll run, but if you listen loud very often expect to replace a blown alt every few months.

At least that was my experience with Ford.

1500w rms blew the 130A alt in my Taurus 2x in 3 yrs. And I don't blast it that often.

If I get an amp that does 2000@1 ohm, and I'm rising to 3 or 4 ohms, does my electrical only "see" whatever my amp is clamping at that impedance or does it see 2000? Because for what I want to do, all I want is too CLAMP around 1500.

Like jeff said - an amp that's 2000@1 on a test bench playing sine waves will only produce a fraction of that on music.

But there is plenty of evidence out there to say 1000w rms is hard on a stock alternator. 2000 is a death sentence. It's a question of how long it lasts.