What batteries do you civic owners run

Fantazmic
10+ year member

Junior Member
Ok, I use to have a Kinetik hc 1400, had AQ2200 amp too, sold them both.

Now looking to get a battery, when I first bought the 1400 iirc that was the biggest battery by kinetik that fit.

Is there any others that might be a better battery that will still fit in a engine bay of a honda civic.

Looking to stay around the $150 range that the kinetik would cost me

amp is now going to be a BXI 2010

 
One of my cars is a 1997 Civic EX coupe. For my electrical I am using a Kinetik HC1400 battery, custom 175 amp alternator, and reprogrammed ODB1 ECU that removed Honda's Electrical Load Detector. I also did my big 3 with some Knu Konceptz 1/0 that was given to me by my cousin.

As for Honda's electrical load detector. That kicks in when the situation is right to save fuel and it reduced my voltage from the 14s to 12.5 when it kicked in. Now, my ECU doesn't even know that I have a ELD so my voltage stays constant.

 
One of my cars is a 1997 Civic EX coupe. For my electrical I am using a Kinetik HC1400 battery, custom 175 amp alternator, and reprogrammed ODB1 ECU that removed Honda's Electrical Load Detector. I also did my big 3 with some Knu Konceptz 1/0 that was given to me by my cousin.
As for Honda's electrical load detector. That kicks in when the situation is right to save fuel and it reduced my voltage from the 14s to 12.5 when it kicked in. Now, my ECU doesn't even know that I have a ELD so my voltage stays constant.
Not sure what that has to do with my question...

but I guess i'll just get this 1400 local for a hundred bucks, sits at low 13s.

 
Not sure what that has to do with my question...
Well, you asked what battery and the rest was just a FYI for any other Honda owner out there who searches and pulls up this thread. Trust me, their ELD sucks!

but I guess i'll just get this 1400 local for a hundred bucks, sits at low 13s.
Are you sure? Have you monitored your charging voltage straight from the alternator on a long drive while being isolated from the battery?

It was a humbling experience to learn about the ELD the hard way, like when the stock battery was sucked bone dry from driving around with the system cranked with only 1,500 watts RMS. At least a manual isn't hard to push start.

 
The ELD plays a BIG factor while driving, but not an issue if you are a spl competitor since you are in park.

AS for batts, the HC1400 and powermaster d5100 are your best bets for under the hood, both discharge fast and pack 60Ah of power(almost double the group 51 yellowtop's Ah). Your best bet though is an HO alt (pricey but worth it) along with 1/0ga big 3 done. I have run batts in the back 2 and they help a ton when I've had big amps.

 
Ok thanks I will read on up on the ELD.

What I noticed was when driving at full tilt with my 2 15s and 2200 I could feel the car like lose power, whats the cause of that? alt was a load boss 170 amp, not a real reliable brand but was cheap.

 
Group 31(one under hood, one in spare tire wheel well) and a 220 amp Mechman alternator with external regulator. 1/0 wire strung everywhere. No problems with electrical at all.

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I got an excessive amperage 225 amp gm alternator for my 2000 civic and fits perfectly with one little spacer. it only has one wire so I just found the wire that gives a 12 volt signal to the alt and hooked it up to the gm alt and charges to 14.6 the whole time. I have regular stock battery under hood and spv70 in trunk with an AQ 2200 and 2 1,000 watt mids and highs amps and I will drop to 13.6 at the lowest at like 1500 rpm.

With stock alt I dim a little and drop to about 12.6

 
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Fantazmic

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