What Active Crossover

michaelsil1
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I've decided to go with Active Crossovers. I'm having problems dialing in the sound I want. It was suggested that I get another Passive Crossover (I don't think so). The question is what Active do I buy? I'm running a two way 6.5". I can use all the help I can get.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
You need to determine what you want to be able to control and how much you are willing to spend.

For a basic crossover unit, the Coustic XM6 is mentioned often as a nice budget crossover. I've seen them for $35 on ebay nib.

If you're looking to spend a bit more, Memphis 16-X03 is a nice looking piece. Arc Audio also makes a few crossovers. They make one in-dash unit that is really slick. They also sell a faceplate that combines the crossover with their in dash eq into a single dash panel which makes for a cool install. Audiocontrol is well known for their quality crossovers and processors.

Adjustability is another thing to check on. There are some units that use a resistor module that you plug into the board to set the crossover point. Some of the Audiocontrol units are set up that way. The modules are cheap and easy to make from a few parts from radio shack. Other units simply have a knob or switch to set the crossover point.

Beyond that, some of the newer head units will have built in crossovers that are fully capable of running a 3-way setup along with other system tweaks. There are also dedicated processors which either interface with a compatible head unit or run independently which allow you to set crossover points, time alignment, surround sound and so on. These can get expensive but it all depends on how much control you're after //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif .

 
You need to determine what you want to be able to control and how much you are willing to spend.
For a basic crossover unit, the Coustic XM6 is mentioned often as a nice budget crossover. I've seen them for $35 on ebay nib.

If you're looking to spend a bit more, Memphis 16-X03 is a nice looking piece. Arc Audio also makes a few crossovers. They make one in-dash unit that is really slick. They also sell a faceplate that combines the crossover with their in dash eq into a single dash panel which makes for a cool install. Audiocontrol is well known for their quality crossovers and processors.

Adjustability is another thing to check on. There are some units that use a resistor module that you plug into the board to set the crossover point. Some of the Audiocontrol units are set up that way. The modules are cheap and easy to make from a few parts from radio shack. Other units simply have a knob or switch to set the crossover point.

Beyond that, some of the newer head units will have built in crossovers that are fully capable of running a 3-way setup along with other system tweaks. There are also dedicated processors which either interface with a compatible head unit or run independently which allow you to set crossover points, time alignment, surround sound and so on. These can get expensive but it all depends on how much control you're after //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif .
That's pretty dead on. Those are the two units that I recommend the most.

When looking for a crossover, just make sure it has the capability to low pass (for subs), bandpass (for mids), and high pass (for tweeters). You want the high pass and the low pass to be able to be adjusted between 1.5k and about 5 k. Give or take a few hz. Normal crossover points for 2-way component sets range from 2 khz to about 4 khz. This will give you enough room to mix and match components, and try different speakers.

The Memphis unit is very good, and can be found for a few dollars more than the Coustic. It's a bit easier to use, and generally just a bit better built. However, that's not a slam against the Coustic. If you look in my sig, I've ran a Coustic crossover, and have had very good success with it.

I wouldn't spend any more money than either of those until you get into units that have time alignment and built in EQ capability. The RF 360.2 comes to mind, and the AudioControl DQXS. PPI made a good one, if you can find one cheap called the DCX730. These units are all well into the hundreds of dollars. The AC unit can be found for around $400.00 on the low end (and doesn't have time alignement that I know of). At that point you're better off just getting a head unit that can do it all.

 
I like the fact that you say the Memphis 16-X03 is easier to use that's probably what I'll start with, you’re also saying I'll also need to run the Subwoofer through it as well? My head unit is the Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS. I've already spent more than I bargained on; this learning experience has been costly.

 
The 880PRS has the ability to actively tune. It has all the feature you need, active crossovers, equalizers and time alignment. You don't need an additional unit.

Save your money.

Also, what speakers are you using?

 
The 880PRS has the ability to actively tune. It has all the feature you need, active crossovers, equalizers and time alignment. You don't need an additional unit.
Save your money.

Also, what speakers are you using?
MB Quart QSD 6.5", Focal TN 52 Tweeter, JL Audio W7 12 ProWedge Sub. Would I still need to run through the passive crossover?

 
No, your hu has all the stuff you need built right in. Read the manual. You have to flip a switch on the side of the hu. Take it out of the dash and slide the case out of the chassis, youll see a switch called network, switch it to that and reset the unit. You will then find the tuning selection in the audio section. It takes awhile to tune the comps but in the end its worth it. Make shure the front rca go to the tweeter amp and the rear to the mid amp. If you screw that up, you risk sending the wrong signal to your tweets and can blow them.

 
In the 880 you need to turn on what they call Network mode. It has better adjustability than either the Coustic or Memphis mentioned. Use your headunit and enjoy!!

 
I went active!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif I'm not going back.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 
I went active!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif I'm not going back.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif
Very awesome! Details please?

 
Very awesome! Details please?
I used my Head Units Active Crossover: Premier DEH-P880PRS.

MB Quart QSD 6.5" (two front, two rear)

Focal TN 52 Tweeters

JL Audio 12 W7 ProWedge Subwoofer

Crossover Points: Sub 63 Hz, Mid Bass 80Hz-3.15 KHz, Tweets 3.15 KHz

18db Slope accross the board, Subwoofer Reverse Phase.

Power: Rockford Fosgate (new) Power Series T1500-1bd,

Alpine PDX 4x150

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
because the frequency doesn't get cut at 63 or 80, but it just slopes down. So ur not losing any frequency in between because it will be played...by both speakers, i believe.

God i hope that makes sense

 
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