What Active Crossover

[michaelsil1 10+ year member]

One can never be too picky when it comes to getting great SQ. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif Thanks.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[michaelsil1 10+ year member]

Here's a link if you want to get an idea of what a midwoofer experiences in the upper range of it's frequency response. Actually, both the links I'll post might help you understand a bit better what's happening. However, what really matters is what sounds good to you.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7107

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7160

Thank you,

This is going to take time to sink in.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

 

[michaelsil1 10+ year member]

Here's a link if you want to get an idea of what a midwoofer experiences in the upper range of it's frequency response. Actually, both the links I'll post might help you understand a bit better what's happening. However, what really matters is what sounds good to you.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7107

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7160

Mini,

I read the threads.

What would you suggest I set the crossovers at?

Both the 6.5" and the Tweeter cut off at 2.5 kHz.

Using the formula 2 x 2.5= 5 kHz for the Tweeter creates a very large gap between the Tweeter and the Mid Ranges capacity.

Your calculator is probably better than my brain. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

It think you misread. You need to know the Fs (Resonant Frequency) of the tweeters. If the Fs is 2.5 kz, it should still be useable to about 4k with a 24 db slope. Maybe even lower. The Fs of a standard car audio tweeter is about 1.5k to about 2 k. Some tweeters even have a much lower Fs like the Seas Neo I mentioned. Generally the more expensive the tweeter, the lower it will play. Manufacturers understand the off-axis alignment that comes with car audio, so your top end component sets will have tweeters capable of much lower crossover points. To get that kind of capability out of a tweeter is hard, and therefore expensive. The Seas Neo is the exception and why it is such a popular tweeter.

Now, don't get all caught up in the numbers. The true test is what sounds good. Driving a tweeter to it's Fs is pretty hard on it, and you're power handling decreases dramatically. If you're getting harshness out of the tweeter in the lower range of it's frequency response, then bump the crossover point up a bit. If there's a huge gap between it and the mid, then bump the mid up a bit.

One of the advantages of going active is being able to design a system to your specifications, using raw drivers that meet the harsh needs of car audio, while also being inexpensive.

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

Mini, props to you for your explanations here and in the links you posted.

 

[michaelsil1 10+ year member]

Mini, props to you for your explanations here and in the links you posted.

Kudos! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

Mini, props to you for your explanations here and in the links you posted.

Thank you.

Somehow managed to not offend anybody in this one. I need to stay away from those 8 ohm threads. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suicide.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

LOL, nah.... keep schooling them.

 

[michaelsil1 10+ year member]

One of the advantages of going active is being able to design a system to your specifications, using raw drivers that meet the harsh needs of car audio, while also being inexpensive.

This learning experience hasn't been inexpensive.

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

It never is. There are ways to mitigating that cost, and you're on the right track now. Since you've taken the plunge to active. Take a look at DIYMobileAudio. It's a very informative site, with a lot of driver reviews, ideas, etc.

 

[jmoreno150 10+ year member]

ma audio has a good one

 

[ronvdp 10+ year member]

No, your hu has all the stuff you need built right in. Read the manual. You have to flip a switch on the side of the hu. Take it out of the dash and slide the case out of the chassis, youll see a switch called network, switch it to that and reset the unit. You will then find the tuning selection in the audio section. It takes awhile to tune the comps but in the end its worth it. Make shure the front rca go to the tweeter amp and the rear to the mid amp. If you screw that up, you risk sending the wrong signal to your tweets and can blow them.

I think the RCA recommendation is backwards, rear to tweeter, front to mids. I'm sure this is pretty late but I just did this in case anyone else tries it.

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

I think the RCA recommendation is backwards, rear to tweeter, front to mids. I'm sure this is pretty late but I just did this in case anyone else tries it.

Correct. Although the RCA's should be labeled this way on the unit itself to avoid confusion.

 

[SQChevy 10+ year member]

If your wanting a really nice active crossover/eq then got with the Alpine PXA-H700 (or 701 with controller) I think you can get the combo around 500 on ebay, Maybe even cheaper. It has 31-band EQ and you can split it up by Front 1, Front 2, Rear, and Sub (I use Front 1-Tweets, Front 2-Midrange, Rear-Front Sub, Sub-Rear Subs). You can adjust by L/R separate or together. It also gives you full crossover ability and phase shift and time adjustments. It is one of the better ones out there, plus if you have an optical output then you keep the signal digital all the way through processing. It also gives you lots of flexibility in how you want to set it up.