Well. That didn't impress me..

[splwj47 10+ year member]

What about the whole belt slip thing???

you shouldnt have no problems with slipping with a bigger alt. imma guess and say mechman just told you that so you would buy his alt and wouldnt go looking some place else for another alt. you got the I6 4.0 motor correct? plenty of power to run a big alt.

 

[Popcornhemeroid 10+ year member]

still that is a pretty small alt to be running a 5k amp. i would try and sell it and get a bigger unit. singer is the only way to go IMO.

Singer I have now contacted and they dot even make an alt for my vehicle.... Sweeeet:/

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

Singer I have now contacted and they dot even make an alt for my vehicle.... Sweeeet:/

Are you any good at working with metal? You could fab your own bracket for a bigger alt. maybe try contacting excessive amperage as well.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Oh god let's not go over this again... Detailed quote from mechman told me 170amp is biggest I can go after that there's to much belt slippage so they sold it to me on the phone they told me 249$ ad it'll be shipped march 11th you'll see it in 7 days from that date... March 11th my credit card wa charged for 388$ march 25th I honed to ask about it to which I received horrible customer service and was refused when I asked to speak with a manager.. A few days later he swore at me on the phone hung up and ignored the phone after that.. Finally only after contacting the Knoxville tennessee police department and hosting an expensive 3 way conference call was I able to receive a straight answer on my alternator and speak with the manager... They did not send ye alt out until march 26th. He then apologized for that and for the person I was talkin to before who just so happens to have been the manager of customer service for 10 years. And he didn't know how to read a USPS invoice ? And swore at me because of it?? Really?? So yea then to top it off it got lost in the mail... I just finally recieved it on Thursday I think it was.... So yes we are now leaving my alt alone. Big three. And whatever we can cap the system off with that setup cuz I'm sick of this bull

LOL. Are you Mexican or something? Mechman is known to hate Mexicans (LOL. There was a huge sh!tstorm in here a year or so ago about some stupid facebook comment he made). Seriously though, I doubt paying 400$ for another 70A "bigger" alternator will make or break you. Drop the dough into batteries and be good. I've run 3K on 2 addiitonal batteries and stock alternator with fine results.

Singer I have now contacted and they dot even make an alt for my vehicle.... Sweeeet:/

If your heart is set on another alternator I got mine from Excessive Amperage and am quite happy. I have 95 Grand Cherokee (4.0l) and belt does slip when it loads down hard, but except under extreme abuse it's not an issue and I'm drawing a good bit more power than you're likely to.

I also would look to 2 15's if you have 12 cube to work with... as I said in my first post I'd rather see 3 12's for better power handling, but at the end of the day, there's no replacement for displacement. You need to displace a lot of air to get loud. Cone area, big excursion, and large/efficient port are all steps in this direction.

I think you're mainly getting a hard time because of the removeable top. If you've never sat in 150 you really have no idea how much preasure that is. It's a lot, things move, bend, and break. Once you start getting loud, even dry-rotting door gaskets can start losing SPL. Panels flexing typically lose big as well. Notice the super extreme SPL cars are built like a Brinks truck with armor plating and 2" thick bomb proof windows. Once you prevent flexing this much you can do a 150 with head unit power, but even 1/8" of flex will drop SPL dramatically (provided it isn't resonating in sympathy with your box....which it probably isn't).

Also worthy of looking at is Incriminator Audio. AFAIK they have some Canadian distributors and their subs and amps are well built and well regarded.

 

[Popcornhemeroid 10+ year member]

LOL. Are you Mexican or something? Mechman is known to hate Mexicans (LOL. There was a huge sh!tstorm in here a year or so ago about some stupid facebook comment he made). Seriously though, I doubt paying 400$ for another 70A "bigger" alternator will make or break you. Drop the dough into batteries and be good. I've run 3K on 2 addiitonal batteries and stock alternator with fine results.

If your heart is set on another alternator I got mine from Excessive Amperage and am quite happy. I have 95 Grand Cherokee (4.0l) and belt does slip when it loads down hard, but except under extreme abuse it's not an issue and I'm drawing a good bit more power than you're likely to.

I also would look to 2 15's if you have 12 cube to work with... as I said in my first post I'd rather see 3 12's for better power handling, but at the end of the day, there's no replacement for displacement. You need to displace a lot of air to get loud. Cone area, big excursion, and large/efficient port are all steps in this direction.

I think you're mainly getting a hard time because of the removeable top. If you've never sat in 150 you really have no idea how much preasure that is. It's a lot, things move, bend, and break. Once you start getting loud, even dry-rotting door gaskets can start losing SPL. Panels flexing typically lose big as well. Notice the super extreme SPL cars are built like a Brinks truck with armor plating and 2" thick bomb proof windows. Once you prevent flexing this much you can do a 150 with head unit power, but even 1/8" of flex will drop SPL dramatically (provided it isn't resonating in sympathy with your box....which it probably isn't).

Also worthy of looking at is Incriminator Audio. AFAIK they have some Canadian distributors and their subs and amps are well built and well regarded.

Lol no in Canadian... And I have friends in Tennessee. So I guess once he got uppity and started swearing I put on my hillbilly accent and he didn't like it much..btw even with big 3 and 170amp alt when I hit some hard songs like "get tough" and "woofer cooker"

I still see pretty significant voltage drops on my dash?? Any thoughts. Don't see how I'm gonna be able to run even a 3.5k amp and a 4 channel if I'm already seeing fluctuations with the hd1200

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Lol no in Canadian... And I have friends in Tennessee. So I guess once he got uppity and started swearing I put on my hillbilly accent and he didn't like it much..btw even with big 3 and 170amp alt when I hit some hard songs like "get tough" and "woofer cooker" I still see pretty significant voltage drops on my dash?? Any thoughts. Don't see how I'm gonna be able to run even a 3.5k amp and a 4 channel if I'm already seeing fluctuations with the hd1200

Have you ever tested voltage with a DMM with the car running? I know that mid 90's Cherokee with 4.0l has issue with the voltage regulator.... specifically they won't charge up past 13.6V, so likely you're starting off on a pretty weak charge to begin with. Check with a DMM and you might want to invest in an outboard regulator to charge up around 14.4-14.6.

Some good AGM batteries will help a lot as well. Even so, there's some acceptable voltage drop that you can't get away from (not for cheap anyway) and provided your amp stays within safe operating range it shouldn't hurt anything.

 

[Popcornhemeroid 10+ year member]

Have you ever tested voltage with a DMM with the car running? I know that mid 90's Cherokee with 4.0l has issue with the voltage regulator.... specifically they won't charge up past 13.6V, so likely you're starting off on a pretty weak charge to begin with. Check with a DMM and you might want to invest in an outboard regulator to charge up around 14.4-14.6.
Some good AGM batteries will help a lot as well. Even so, there's some acceptable voltage drop that you can't get away from (not for cheap anyway) and provided your amp stays within safe operating range it shouldn't hurt anything.

Yes I've checked at Batt with engine running I get a solid 14.4 and I have an optima blue top. Which is not failing like everyone says they do... I run that type of Bart because dry cell. And I don't wanna worry about acid leak if I roll over

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Yes I've checked at Batt with engine running I get a solid 14.4 and I have an optima blue top. Which is not failing like everyone says they do... I run that type of Bart because dry cell. And I don't wanna worry about acid leak if I roll over

Well, that's not too bad then if you're charging that well. How old is the battery? Have you had it "load tested" recently if it's more than a couple years old?

Personally I've had good success just adding batteries. If they have Sears in Canada, I'd highly reccomend the Die Hard Platium. They're great quality AGM style batteries and Sears has an impressive battery warranty that you won't have to mail a battery to cash in on when the time comes (assuming there's Sears stores up there.....USA is full of them)

 

[Popcornhemeroid 10+ year member]

Well, that's not too bad then if you're charging that well. How old is the battery? Have you had it "load tested" recently if it's more than a couple years old?
Personally I've had good success just adding batteries. If they have Sears in Canada, I'd highly reccomend the Die Hard Platium. They're great quality AGM style batteries and Sears has an impressive battery warranty that you won't have to mail a battery to cash in on when the time comes (assuming there's Sears stores up there.....USA is full of them)

Yea we have sears here. Everything is over priced and they don't stock much accept big house appliances .. Fridges stoves washer dryer TVA ect ect

No I haven't. Every time I walk into a shop and ask to have my alt and batt tested. They send some noob out with a dmm and he looks just as dumb as I do standing there with the clips on the terminals going... Looks fine:/....

K so when I play "get tough.." helicopter showdown

About 1 minute in my voltage is looooow even with the 170amp alt any ideas??? Faulty alt from mechman Maybea???

 

[Popcornhemeroid 10+ year member]

K also. Would this have anything to do with it. I doubt it. But to the left is the ground that comes out of that plastic Box that was on my old alt to my engine block then I have a 2guage from my engine block to negative there but anyways those other two black wires on the box with the rigs that are empty were mounter to my stock alt.. The new alt has nowhere to put them sooooo. I just didn't.. Doesn't seem to have any problems.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Yea we have sears here. Everything is over priced and they don't stock much accept big house appliances .. Fridges stoves washer dryer TVA ect ect
No I haven't. Every time I walk into a shop and ask to have my alt and batt tested. They send some noob out with a dmm and he looks just as dumb as I do standing there with the clips on the terminals going... Looks fine:/....

K so when I play "get tough.." helicopter showdown

About 1 minute in my voltage is looooow even with the 170amp alt any ideas??? Faulty alt from mechman Maybea???

Well a DMM isn't a load test! A proper parts store (in USA anyway) has a big machine that they put the battery in, hit a button, and it runs tests and spits out a printout of performance data. A battery with a strong looking resting voltage can be virtually dead! Shame you don't have Sears Automotive there... they usually have fair prices on tires and batteries and such.

If you're charging at >14V it's unlikely your alt is bad. Keep in mind at idle you have MUCH less output from alternator than at 2K rpm, and output drops with heat as well. At the moment you should be OK since AFAIK JL has a regulated power supply, it it's enough voltage to turn it on it'll make true power.

Like I said, I'd have no worries running a 3K amp with a couple beefy AGM batteries in the back and a solid one up front..... make it 3 bats in the back if you plan to mess around at .5 ohm for more than burps.

*EDIT*

So what is actually grounding the chasis of your alternator????

 

[Popcornhemeroid 10+ year member]

Well a DMM isn't a load test! A proper parts store (in USA anyway) has a big machine that they put the battery in, hit a button, and it runs tests and spits out a printout of performance data. A battery with a strong looking resting voltage can be virtually dead! Shame you don't have Sears Automotive there... they usually have fair prices on tires and batteries and such.
If you're charging at >14V it's unlikely your alt is bad. Keep in mind at idle you have MUCH less output from alternator than at 2K rpm, and output drops with heat as well. At the moment you should be OK since AFAIK JL has a regulated power supply, it it's enough voltage to turn it on it'll make true power.

Like I said, I'd have no worries running a 3K amp with a couple beefy AGM batteries in the back and a solid one up front..... make it 3 bats in the back if you plan to mess around at .5 ohm for more than burps.

*EDIT*

So what is actually grounding the chasis of your alternator????

What do u mean what's grounding the chassis of my alt?? Explain please?

Do you mean battery to frame ?

 

[Popcornhemeroid 10+ year member]

you shouldnt have no problems with slipping with a bigger alt. imma guess and say mechman just told you that so you would buy his alt and wouldnt go looking some place else for another alt. you got the I6 4.0 motor correct? plenty of power to run a big alt.

Even singer is telling me

Haha he thinks my name is Brian.... Cuz my email is brain_tooth and hi eyes saw Brian obvs

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

What do u mean what's grounding the chassis of my alt?? Explain please? Do you mean battery to frame ?

The case of the alternator should have a large path for - flow to ground post of battery/frame. See that big honkin' cable coming off the +12 of that alternator? There should be something similar connecting the body of the alternator to chasis/-

If you're not desparate to save space I'd use batteries before dropping another 500$ into alternator. IF I were to be looking alternator I'd be trying to find someone to make a bracket to run multiple alternators.

 

[Popcornhemeroid 10+ year member]

The case of the alternator should have a large path for - flow to ground post of battery/frame. See that big honkin' cable coming off the +12 of that alternator? There should be something similar connecting the body of the alternator to chasis/-

If you're not desparate to save space I'd use batteries before dropping another 500$ into alternator. IF I were to be looking alternator I'd be trying to find someone to make a bracket to run multiple alternators.

There is nowhere on this new mechman alts body to throw a ground? Hence why those other ground looking wires in that pic aren't hooked to anything Should I just throw ye ring terminal for a ground on one of the mounting bolts to the frame of my jeep?