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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8076355" data-attributes="member: 614752">LOL.&nbsp;&nbsp; Are you Mexican or something?&nbsp; Mechman is known to hate Mexicans (LOL.&nbsp; There was a huge sh!tstorm in here a year or so ago about some stupid facebook comment he made).&nbsp; &nbsp; Seriously though, I doubt paying 400$ for another 70A &quot;bigger&quot; alternator will make or break you.&nbsp; Drop the dough into batteries and be good.&nbsp; I&#039;ve run 3K on 2 addiitonal batteries and stock alternator with fine results.If your heart is set on another alternator I got mine from Excessive Amperage and am quite happy.&nbsp; I have 95 Grand Cherokee (4.0l) and belt does slip when it loads down hard, but except under extreme abuse it&#039;s not an issue and I&#039;m drawing a good bit more power than you&#039;re likely to.I also would look to 2 15&#039;s if you have 12 cube to work with... as I said in my first post I&#039;d rather see 3 12&#039;s for better power handling, but at the end of the day, there&#039;s no replacement for displacement.&nbsp; You need to displace a lot of air to get loud.&nbsp; Cone area, big excursion, and large/efficient port are all steps in this direction.I think you&#039;re mainly getting a hard time because of the removeable top.&nbsp;&nbsp; If you&#039;ve never sat in 150 you really have no idea how much preasure that is.&nbsp; It&#039;s a lot, things move, bend, and break.&nbsp;&nbsp; Once you start getting loud, even dry-rotting door gaskets can start losing SPL.&nbsp;&nbsp; Panels flexing typically lose big as well.&nbsp; Notice the super extreme SPL cars are built like a Brinks truck with armor plating and 2&quot; thick bomb proof windows.&nbsp; Once you prevent flexing this much you can do a 150 with head unit power, but even 1/8&quot; of flex will drop SPL dramatically (provided it isn&#039;t resonating in sympathy with your box....which it probably isn&#039;t).Also worthy of looking at is Incriminator Audio.&nbsp; AFAIK they have some Canadian distributors and their subs and amps are well built and well regarded.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8076355, member: 614752"] LOL. Are you Mexican or something? Mechman is known to hate Mexicans (LOL. There was a huge sh!tstorm in here a year or so ago about some stupid facebook comment he made). Seriously though, I doubt paying 400$ for another 70A "bigger" alternator will make or break you. Drop the dough into batteries and be good. I've run 3K on 2 addiitonal batteries and stock alternator with fine results. If your heart is set on another alternator I got mine from Excessive Amperage and am quite happy. I have 95 Grand Cherokee (4.0l) and belt does slip when it loads down hard, but except under extreme abuse it's not an issue and I'm drawing a good bit more power than you're likely to. I also would look to 2 15's if you have 12 cube to work with... as I said in my first post I'd rather see 3 12's for better power handling, but at the end of the day, there's no replacement for displacement. You need to displace a lot of air to get loud. Cone area, big excursion, and large/efficient port are all steps in this direction. I think you're mainly getting a hard time because of the removeable top. If you've never sat in 150 you really have no idea how much preasure that is. It's a lot, things move, bend, and break. Once you start getting loud, even dry-rotting door gaskets can start losing SPL. Panels flexing typically lose big as well. Notice the super extreme SPL cars are built like a Brinks truck with armor plating and 2" thick bomb proof windows. Once you prevent flexing this much you can do a 150 with head unit power, but even 1/8" of flex will drop SPL dramatically (provided it isn't resonating in sympathy with your box....which it probably isn't). Also worthy of looking at is Incriminator Audio. AFAIK they have some Canadian distributors and their subs and amps are well built and well regarded. [/QUOTE]

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