Welcome, my friends, to what is my biggest (literally) project yet.

Now for large boards (such as in this project), I have them cut the panels ~ 1/2 to 1/4" wider. That way, I just measure the panels when I get home, center them so that there's an even overhand, and at the end, just go around the enclosure with a flush trim bit on the router. Otherwise, you end up having panels that are too short and some that are too long, which obviously means that you have monstrous gaps everywhere.
Like this? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

mockinglemans2327zg.jpg


 
My name is Dave btw, it's kinda weird to be called pv audio formally, but do what ya do.
Yep, that's what I do. Say the piece is to be 5" wide. If there needs to be a super fine tolerance (i.e. small bookshelf type speakers), then I will have them cut them 1" larger and I'll cut it down (literally) at home on my table saw. My saw guide measures accurately down to 1/32 off, which is good enough for me.

Now for large boards (such as in this project), I have them cut the panels ~ 1/2 to 1/4" wider. That way, I just measure the panels when I get home, center them so that there's an even overhand, and at the end, just go around the enclosure with a flush trim bit on the router. Otherwise, you end up having panels that are too short and some that are too long, which obviously means that you have monstrous gaps everywhere.
Just invest in a real table saw and learn to use it and you don't have to use a flush trim bit. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Just invest in a real table saw and learn to use it and you don't have to use a flush trim bit. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif I don't recall saying that I rely on this to get flush edges, only when I have HD cut my panels. Today when I went to redo my HT's rear channels, the router got taken out only to make flush mounts and cutouts, no flush trimmy at all //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
 
My name is Dave btw, it's kinda weird to be called pv audio formally, but do what ya do.
Yep, that's what I do. Say the piece is to be 5" wide. If there needs to be a super fine tolerance (i.e. small bookshelf type speakers), then I will have them cut them 1" larger and I'll cut it down (literally) at home on my table saw. My saw guide measures accurately down to 1/32 off, which is good enough for me.

Now for large boards (such as in this project), I have them cut the panels ~ 1/2 to 1/4" wider. That way, I just measure the panels when I get home, center them so that there's an even overhand, and at the end, just go around the enclosure with a flush trim bit on the router. Otherwise, you end up having panels that are too short and some that are too long, which obviously means that you have monstrous gaps everywhere.
So you have to have one panel that is perfect. I was wondering if that's how you do it.

Thanks.

 
So you have to have one panel that is perfect. I was wondering if that's how you do it. Thanks.
Essentially. Honestly though, the easiest way is to just cut all the panels yourself, but seeing as my fence only allows cuts of up to 15.5" wide on either side, it's fairly difficult to get a panel ~ 30" long to be cut on a table saw. It's in these situations only that I have HD do their purposely imperfect cutting. Otherwise, my guide is dead on and I can zip through in minutes. Cut all 12 panels for my new satellites in ~ 1.5-2. Table saw makes a world of difference when the fence and guide are accurate.
 
Update: Fi Q 15 will be here on Monday to round it out and finally finish this **** project. Pre-amp got here fine (Adcom gtp-400 w/ phono pre-out), amp works great and has enough head room and speakers are finally broken in. This project sees the light
eek3.gif


 
I don't know why y'all keep saying that. I've been done with it since the week I started it. I just keep adding this that I want //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Ported at 32 on the Fi Q, via 1 6" PVC, or sealed? I'm leaning towards sealed.

 
I don't know why y'all keep saying that. I've been done with it since the week I started it. I just keep adding this that I want //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
Ported at 32 on the Fi Q, via 1 6" PVC, or sealed? I'm leaning towards sealed.
I'm interested in hearing how the Fi Q will do for home audio. Sealed wouldn't get low enough for my tastes, but it might work well for a small dorm room. Ported at 32hz seems a tad high but should give it a nice DJ/PA style kick.

Keep us posted.

 
Sealed doesn't get low enough for my tastes either, but it does the job for a dorm room //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
Yep, the only advantage of having a small room is more cabin gain. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

How big do you think it will be? I've been cravng for more power lately and was thinking about building a 15" into a coffee table or some other piece of furniture for space efficiency.

 
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