Welcome, my friends, to what is my biggest (literally) project yet.

PV Audio
5,000+ posts

The Vision of Sound
Recently, a friend of mine in my dorm gave me a set of old busted up speakers. He said to take 'em for free because they were old and probably didn't sound too good. Little did I know (about 2 weeks later after just having them sit around) that they were JBL century L100 speakers, which are right now going for a good 2-300 a pair on ebay. I cranked these guys up and I realized that for my dorm next year, I need serious sound. Seriously BIG sound. So, in honor of the free speakers, here is my next endeavor. Critique it as much as possible, as this is far from anything I've done yet.

The drivers are as follows (you'll see where they all go //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif ):

Dayton DVC 10" subwoofer

295-485L.jpg


Alesis 6.5" carbon fiber mid/woofer

299-164L.jpg


Hi-Vi SD1 1" tweeter

297-416L.jpg


Here's preliminary 3D look:





Before I ask my questions, here's some other facts. I am not making my own x-overs for these speakers; they would just be too expensive. Rather, I'm going to use one of the Dayton 3-way filters they've got on PE, the one with the 375 lowpass. So, onto the questions:

1. Efficiency, efficiency, efficiency! Do you think that I could push these guys with a receiver to decent output levels, or would I have to run them through an amplifier to get enough power? Remember, these need to have high output levels, but buying dedicated equipment will defeat the purpose of low-cost, so let me know what you think on that.

2. The bottom chamber is 3.87 cubes tuned to 36.5hz, which should be sufficient to pick up any and all low end that these have to offer //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif. Point being, do you think that a tuning this low, with the edge of the passband rolling off around 350hz would cause blending issues with my midrange? The tweeter and mid should be fairly seamless, and I know bass is omnidirectional, but I do not want boomy bass if I'm not trying to throw a party. Yes, I will have other hi-fi equipment in the room, but I want to know just the same.

3. Now for the most and also the least important bit: grilles. Should I use grills on these or not? Here's the necessary and unnecessary reasoning: people like to play with speaker cones. For some reason they just like touching the, pushing in dustcaps or fondling phase plugs. I'm not worried too much about the sub, but some ******* might get curious about what textile tweeters are and might start playing around with it. A grille, although weak, almost always prevents people from touching the cones unless they are a speaker enthusiast. I don't want any accidents either. Now, with that said, they would be really unnecessary as putting grilles on two 10" subwoofers in a cabinet is next to an insult, as they'll just blow them off anyway. Also, I forgot to show that the subs and drivers will all be flush mounted (that's the purpose of the second baffle on the sub part, the angle at the top is for aesthetics only //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif ), so they won't actually come in contact with the grilles. None the less, I would use a magnetic grill guide if I did decide to do that, which also defeats the purpose of the grill as I would need two separate ones for each cabinet (different baffle heights).

Lots of info here, but just wanna ask y'all before I do anything...stupid //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

-Dave

 
I hate grilles, but also enjoy plug fondling, so I may be a little biased. I think drivers need to be shown off.

I'm a big fan of reverse-mounting as well, and although it's not very practical, it could allow for more creative grille options.

You didn't really ask, but you may want to look into weighing down the bases of these to keep their center of gravity a little lower.

 
All that and pre-built crossovers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Going active would save things //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
All that and pre-built crossovers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Going active would save things //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
That is what I am thinking...

You would benefit a lot from designing purpose built crossovers. Even if you balanced them properly you could do some simple second order, or even first order filters and gain a lot vs going with some nasty pre-built crossovers...

 
That is what I am thinking...
You would benefit a lot from designing purpose built crossovers. Even if you balanced them properly you could do some simple second order, or even first order filters and gain a lot vs going with some nasty pre-built crossovers...
See, this is what I was thinking also. I have pretty much zero time to etch a PCB as these will need to be done over the course of a week, but I do have a conductive pen that I could use to write the traces. Do you think that would be sufficient? And even then, what alignment would you use? I've had very good success with Butterworth 2nd order filters. L-R seem to be too peaky for some reason, but I don't know why.
 
you putting that in a dorm... ok
I know one guy that was blazing w/ the bass when a few people in a different program had a big test the next day, dudes receiver went awol... just saying be careful w/ that kind of stuff in a dorm.
I am a first year engineering major. The guy with the test the next day will always be me anyway. Plus, it will only get worse next year, so I'm not too worried about that. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
 
All that and pre-built crossovers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Going active would save things //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I don't want to buy any other equipment if I don't have to //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
 
I hate grilles, but also enjoy plug fondling, so I may be a little biased. I think drivers need to be shown off.
I'm a big fan of reverse-mounting as well, and although it's not very practical, it could allow for more creative grille options.

You didn't really ask, but you may want to look into weighing down the bases of these to keep their center of gravity a little lower.
Why would I need to weigh down the bases anyway? 90% of the mass is in the lower half of the speaker and generally right in the middle of the tower anyway (for what they are, the subs have a fairly large mounting depth). What would you recommend?
 
I don't want to buy any other equipment if I don't have to //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
You're taking on a pretty big project to say that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

3-way and "cheap" don't usually go together...

 
Daaaaah frosty, you always have to rain on my parade. Even though I knew it was going to storm anyway //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
See, this is what I was thinking also. I have pretty much zero time to etch a PCB as these will need to be done over the course of a week, but I do have a conductive pen that I could use to write the traces. Do you think that would be sufficient? And even then, what alignment would you use? I've had very good success with Butterworth 2nd order filters. L-R seem to be too peaky for some reason, but I don't know why.
Why etch a PCB? Use a piece of wood or peg board and deadrun and solder everything together.

L-Rs need to be applied correctly otherwise you might run into that problem.

You're taking on a pretty big project to say that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
3-way and "cheap" don't usually go together...

Indeed. 3-way usually means more wattage especially with dual bass drivers.

 
Hmm, I'll consider that. Nonetheless, I would need a design made since I no longer have a program to help me with it, and I can't be bothered to break out Testing Loudspeakers to make one myself again //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Yes, I am that lazy. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
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