neo_styles 10+ year member
AKA Pop Twidget
You could go nuts and set yourself up for IB. You'll end up saving weight in the trunk of your Pontiac and afford yourself nice, flat low-end extension on low power.
His sub stage is a single 12. I believe the brand is UltraWhat brand does he use?
This is what I would do.You could go nuts and set yourself up for IB. You'll end up saving weight in the trunk of your Pontiac and afford yourself nice, flat low-end extension on low power.
IB is where you completely isolate the front and rear waves of the sub from each other. Your entire trunk basically ends up becoming your enclosure, but to pull this off, you need to make sure the area around your baffle is COMPLETELY sealed or it won't work properly. It's the same reason you get better midbass response out of door speakers installed in properly deadened doors.What exactly is infinite baffle? Isn't that basically free air?
Except to take up the whole trunk like that the box/boxes would have to be built IN the trunk wouldn't they? I can't do that because I can't build. I've never built before and my current living conditions (apartment) prevent me from tryingIB is where you completely isolate the front and rear waves of the sub from each other. Your entire trunk basically ends up becoming your enclosure, but to pull this off, you need to make sure the area around your baffle is COMPLETELY sealed or it won't work properly. It's the same reason you get better midbass response out of door speakers installed in properly deadened doors.
Refer to my above post with pictures. As for getting the cutouts made, just do a mockup with cardboard and take it somewhere that will cut for you or ask a buddy/local shop to cut the shapes and just pay them a 20Except to take up the whole trunk like that the box/boxes would have to be built IN the trunk wouldn't they? I can't do that because I can't build. I've never built before and my current living conditions (apartment) prevent me from trying
Oh OK I see what you mean now. I don't think that's going to be an option for me. Looks expensive as hell to make it look good and also I have no blow through port in my car like he does to make that work the way his didLook for KHA's 2001 Accord build log. His pictures go through the steps he went through to make his system IB. Of course, in typical KHA fashion, he goes WAY above and beyond what most installers would do. Here's an example of his IB setup:
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Refer to my above post with pictures
If that's the case and you want to use 600W each from the Audison, your best bets are the HO, Level 2, LI, or GCON. IIRC, all are 600WRMS subs, but the Dayton is the only one I'm unsure of regarding how much more than rated it will reasonably take long-termOh OK I see what you mean now. I don't think that's going to be an option for me. Looks expensive as hell to make it look good and also I have no blow through port in my car like he does to make that work the way his did
Well considering the daytons are rated at 700W then I shouldn't have any worries about over-powering them with my current ampIf that's the case and you want to use 600W each from the Audison, your best bets are the HO, Level 2, LI, or GCON. IIRC, all are 600WRMS subs, but the Dayton is the only one I'm unsure of regarding how much more than rated it will reasonably take long-term
With the exception of the Daytons, I really think it's all apples to apples. The one I can speak most personally about is the DC since I'm currently running it and, for the price, I'm astonished. Came from a ID10 to this and the difference is night and day. Best way I can describe how the Level 2 reproduces bass is...effortless and deep. Like I said before, it's more a part of the rest of the system now rather than just being a showboater sub that steals from the overall enjoyment of my system. I came from SQ roots and am moving towards just looking at quality Daily Driver setups and wouldn't hesitate to recommend that DC to anyone looking for something around that power handling all the way up to 1K.Well considering the daytons are rated at 700W then I shouldn't have any worries about over-powering them with my current amp
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And which of those would you say could handle super fast transients the best?
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While getting loud and hitting hard
Now when you say it's "not a showboater" that makes it sound like it doesn't really get THAT loud. I want a sub that can be leveled to blend with the rest of the system but at the same time can crank that fuc*** up and shake some sh** loose haha.With the exception of the Daytons, I really think it's all apples to apples. The one I can speak most personally about is the DC since I'm currently running it and, for the price, I'm astonished. Came from a ID10 to this and the difference is night and day. Best way I can describe how the Level 2 reproduces bass is...effortless and deep. Like I said before, it's more a part of the rest of the system now rather than just being a showboater sub that steals from the overall enjoyment of my system. I came from SQ roots and am moving towards just looking at quality Daily Driver setups and wouldn't hesitate to recommend that DC to anyone looking for something around that power handling all the way up to 1K.
That being said, I REALLY want to get my hands on some IA Death Rows for a Tahoe build I'm planning out, so it ultimately is up to you.
Now when you say it's "not a showboater" that makes it sound like it doesn't really get THAT loud. I want a sub that can be leveled to blend with the rest of the system but at the same time can crank that fuc*** up and shake some sh** loose haha.
I usually play my SA-8s pretty conservatively but they can be cranked and shake the hell out of my car pretty well. They just don't have that fast transient response that I miss from my Hertz ES300
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Case in point
Can your DC2's do what the 8's do in my video while having that fast response?Everyone's perception of loud is different.