Walling off my car, part 2 (the pics thus far)

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15's would be better in my situation... but I'm not reconing this 18 and I DO have the room for them, just not the most optimal placement.

I've been following that build delvry boy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
bottom port could work, it's just a little more tricky.

use a little less port area than you would for a side port. ie; 300" drivers port, 225" bottom port.

also, try and get the distance from the subs and port as great as possible.

as far as the build itself, remember 3 things...

1 - strong as possible

2 - seal it as solid as possible(ie; side panels that seal the box to the body should at least be 2" thick.

3 - use as little port length as possible(ie; if your port needs to be 6" long, make the baffle 6" thick.

remember, walls are a different beast. size and placement play a factor in tuning more than port length.... it's the complete opposite of a street box.

these thing are the difference between a 145db wall and a 155db wall.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
and yes, i have seen walls with 4 15's and 10kw do 145db. i have also seen a wall do a 150+ w/ 1 18 and 400w. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
like i told you before you dont need to build the walls with 2 x 4 from top to bottom . like you can see in this picture. he has them like every 6" to 8" apart. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/trexdan/Van/IMGP0805.jpg

that will be strong enogh to keep the walls from flexing. specialy if youre double baffing as well.

i would lay the 2 x 4 with the 2" side againt the wall. that will yield a stronger wall instead of laying the 4" to the wall.

i would think that top mounting the port will be best since it would fire directly to the windshield. and have no upstructions.

 
and yes, i have seen walls with 4 15's and 10kw do 145db. i have also seen a wall do a 150+ w/ 1 18 and 400w. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Thanks for the tips //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

I'm sure Grant will chime in re: your suggestions, he's designing the wall.

 
like i told you before you dont need to build the walls with 2 x 4 from top to bottom . like you can see in this picture. he has them like every 6" to 8" apart. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/trexdan/Van/IMGP0805.jpgthat will be strong enogh to keep the walls from flexing. specialy if youre double baffing as well.

i would lay the 2 x 4 with the 2" side againt the wall. that will yield a stronger wall instead of laying the 4" to the wall.

i would think that top mounting the port will be best since it would fire directly to the windshield. and have no upstructions.
stay away from top port, there's nothing good to be had with it.

 
people that say a couple layers is good enough don't know what they're talking about IMO.

Mine is 5 layers of MDF thick and 5 inches of grout/concrete and it vibrates/flexes WITH 15 feet of rebar in it also.

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A wall is NEVER strong enough. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
just by looking at your picters i can tell that its not structuraly sound. you have about 4" between each sub. and yes even if your wall is made out of cement. doesnt mean its a solid design. flexing will acour in any enclosure that has been desing improperly no matter how much cement or mdf you use.

proper bracing of the enclosure is key, making sure that there is enogh space between each sub to make the wall solid is important.

thats why your cement wall cracked. too much sub. too little space in between sub. by the look of it. im no expert so dont take this to heart. but thats just the way it looks.

here is some general info about the port placement tuning and distance for spl enclosure, like i sayed is very general. but use full at that.

http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0203cae_audio_speakers_basics/

 
What would you know about my cement cracking? If you noticed in the pics the subs are touching meaning that there's only 1.5 inches on crete between woofers. Design flaw hahahaha....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blackeye.gif.66a1670f5aaf7f406e783a63e3387dc5.gif

Keep it on topic. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/greedy.gif.5a53e6246569d7ab79867170f3b06629.gif

P.s. Read my post right after the one with the pics. It's says don't build it this way. My design flaw was good enough to get me third this year at Drag Finals.

 
Anyways....

If you can I would try to add some type of a steel tubing baffle and add wood to it. But that's just me. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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