Volvo C70 convertible sound system build log

After I removed my C70's seats & carpet, I shampooed the carpets and then scotch guarded them next day.

While I was looking at the floor pan / uni-body of my C70 I noticed their where sheet steel hollow chambers built into the uni-body. I thought those look like they could be sound boxes "like a acoustic guitar" and sounds could resonate in them. So I stuffed old plastics bags from the grocery store into some of the chambers.

I also cut & laid out some roofing shingles, my C70 is a luxury convertible so it already has quite a bit of sound damping & a layer of inch thick foam under the carpet but I want to make it quieter. Under the foam that is under the front seat carpet is two sheets of sound deadening, but under the seats & behind them their is none.

Under the seats and in the rear seat area I think I am going to lay a layer of thin foam pad and then cement the shingles to the pad, then I will add another layer of cement that I can stick a layer of foam pad to. "So that the whole thing can be removed" - like if I need to do any welding to the floor pan or rocker panels.

I tinted my front windows yesterday and they look good.

The weather looks like its going to be to chilly for me to use the roofing cement tommrow so I might just work on painting my factory wheels that I am rocking on the passenger side.



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I just don't even know what's going on in here anymore.

 

---------- Post added at 09:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------

 

Here's a picture of some lasagna

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Yeah I am totally into this build and I've been taking pics with my phone but I need a new memory card before I can transfer the pics. They cost like $22 at Target or $6 at the big computer store across town, but I won't be able to get their for another week.

When I removed the top of my rear seat the area for the two 8 inch subs is like 40 wide by like 13 or 15 high, with maybe 7 inches of depth. Their is a sub opening on either side of a ski pass thru. I've been looking at the area and I kind of want to run 3 10"s in the back and a 10 in each door.

The steel floor pan under the rear seat cushion is made in such a way that it would be relatively easy for me to flush mount the amps and just ditch the upper and lower rear seat cushions. But I haven't put a pen to paper and sketched anything yet.

 
Today I laid a layer of thin foam down on the floor pan under where the passenger seat goes, the rear foot well area and where the rear seat mounts. Then I used the roofing cemented to bond some roofing shingles "that I had already cut" for the areas to the foam.

I sealed the edges of the shingles to the foam with kind of a thick layer of cement that over lapped onto the top of the shingles. I was spreading the roofing cement with a wooden kitchen spatula. I had a used a double thick pieces of cardboard as kind of a mixing board and would ladle a scoop full of roofing cement on to it and then use the spatula to transfer the cement to the shingles.

then I would work the cement back and forth using the spatula like a spreader to create a even coat of cement. Then I would bond the shingles to the foam.

when I laid out the foam I had to cut it to fit and used some masking tape to seal up any seams. I later realized that duct tape would bonded to the shinny foam better and I really needed to be using 2inch wide tape instead of inch wide tape.

But anyway after I had the shingles bonded & sealed to the foam I added another layer of foam and sealed it into place with roofing cement.

I used about half of the gallon of roofing cement on the areas mentioned.

My original plan was to sound dampen the doors during this phase of the build so it looks like I either need to go get some more roofing cement, or put the doors back tougher and then sound dampen them when I build some speaker baffles.

 
Today I laid a layer of thin foam down on the floor pan under where the passenger seat goes, the rear foot well area and where the rear seat mounts. Then I used the roofing cemented to bond some roofing shingles "that I had already cut" for the areas to the foam.
I sealed the edges of the shingles to the foam with kind of a thick layer of cement that over lapped onto the top of the shingles. I was spreading the roofing cement with a wooden kitchen spatula. I had a used a double thick pieces of cardboard as kind of a mixing board and would ladle a scoop full of roofing cement on to it and then use the spatula to transfer the cement to the shingles.

then I would work the cement back and forth using the spatula like a spreader to create a even coat of cement. Then I would bond the shingles to the foam.

when I laid out the foam I had to cut it to fit and used some masking tape to seal up any seams. I later realized that duct tape would bonded to the shinny foam better and I really needed to be using 2inch wide tape instead of inch wide tape.

But anyway after I had the shingles bonded & sealed to the foam I added another layer of foam and sealed it into place with roofing cement.

I used about half of the gallon of roofing cement on the areas mentioned.

My original plan was to sound dampen the doors during this phase of the build so it looks like I either need to go get some more roofing cement, or put the doors back tougher and then sound dampen them when I build some speaker baffles.
Pics

 
Their was light raining yesterday so I couldn't work on my C70, instead I walked to Home Depot to purchased another can of roofing cement. The Home depot that I went to had a wider selection of roofing type cements and sealers so I purchased a can that said it was a brush-able adhesive & sealant.

Today I laid sections of thin foam pad down on the drivers side and taped the sections tougher with duct tape. Its was kind of cloudy and it looked like it was going to rain so I didn't cement the shingles in-place on the drivers side. While I was cleaning up I did reinstall the factory foam pad on the passenger side and it seamed to fit fine even with the extra floor height created by the sound damping materials.

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