Voltage not jumping back to 14 after load(Bass) is removed

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Oh ya. Your right. I'm the problem this forum has gone down the tubes. Gimme a break dude. We can go about this all night if you want. It's not gonna solve anything and....we as in you and I are ruining this poor guys thread.

Do I need to remind you there's far worse people out there than me?

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Oh ya. Your right. I'm the problem this forum has gone down the tubes. Gimme a break dude. We can go about this all night if you want. It's not gonna solve anything and....we as in you and I are ruining this poor guys thread.
Do I need to remind you there's far worse people out there than me?

I'm interested in knowing, so yes.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I'm interested in knowing, so yes.

Sorry, not gonna spoon feed you. Are you done with me?

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Sorry, not gonna spoon feed you. Are you done with me?

No I'm not. Let us just be positive.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

No I'm not. Let us just be positive.

You dont understand.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Umm...are you messing with me?

 

[dttimma]

What a bunch of tards.. I do appreciate the input.. I guess. Alright so, if I let the alternator get to operating temperature without any load. Then apply a load to the system, it seems to be working correctly. But something is still of, and I expect one of my batteries is giving out so I'm gonna start with removing the oldest and move from there.. interestingly, when the car first starts, voltage is 14.7 but when the amps come on it drops to 12 and slowly climbs back. Needs some investigating for sure

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[Hertz Mafia]

What a bunch of tards.. I do appreciate the input.. I guess. Alright so, if I let the alternator get to operating temperature without any load. Then apply a load to the system, it seems to be working correctly. But something is still of, and I expect one of my batteries is giving out so I'm gonna start with removing the oldest and move from there.. interestingly, when the car first starts, voltage is 14.7 but when the amps come on it drops to 12 and slowly climbs back. Needs some investigating for sure
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Alternators do better cold.. they put out less power when hot.... and just taking out batts isnt load testing. U need to u hook each battery and take it to like advance auto or auto zone and have them LOAD test each battery separately.

 

[Hertz Mafia]

And what your describing is normal for most electrical systems that use more current draw then they can support. You will drop down to high 11s-low 12s and then when u turn down the volume it will slowly start to recharge and your voltage will climb back up.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Hi.

Now this post i enjoyed

 

[Hertz Mafia]

Will all three of you knob gobblers stop with the non sense and cluttering up this guys thread. Go start a thunder dome thread if u want to act like 12year olds!!!!!!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blackeye.gif.66a1670f5aaf7f406e783a63e3387dc5.gif

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

What a bunch of tards.. I do appreciate the input.. I guess. Alright so, if I let the alternator get to operating temperature without any load. Then apply a load to the system, it seems to be working correctly. But something is still of, and I expect one of my batteries is giving out so I'm gonna start with removing the oldest and move from there.. interestingly, when the car first starts, voltage is 14.7 but when the amps come on it drops to 12 and slowly climbs back. Needs some investigating for sure
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Good chabce you a have a bad cell or b a short.

Yes you can take tge battery out and play the radio at a moderate volume and see how fast voltage falls. Just single out each battery and test tgem watching voltage drop.. If it drops off fast and struggles to recover its more tgan likely bad

 

[Hertz Mafia]

Good chabce you a have a bad cell or b a short.Yes you can take tge battery out and play the radio at a moderate volume and see how fast voltage falls. Just single out each battery and test tgem watching voltage drop.. If it drops off fast and struggles to recover its more tgan likely bad

He needs to Load test the batts... that's the right way to check to see if they have a bad cell in them. Not just take batts out and play music and see... WOW that's bad info

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

He needs to Load test the batts... that's the right way to check to see if they have a bad cell in them. Not just take batts out and play music and see... WOW that's bad info

There is no real difference. If he played a tone for 20 seconds causing 30 amps of draw its the same as a load tester.

It just have to be off on the battery alone.. You can calculate discharge rate over time and compare that to spec..

 

[JohnKuthe]

the correct thing to do is load test each battery individually and figure out which one is the weak link.... NOT your advice of just go buy new batteries

I neglected to notice the OP said he's got two batteries. And yes if one has the time and proper equipment to load test each battery this is good advice. But the quick and easy albeit expensive fix is to replace both batteries with brand new warrantied ones. Image how much better one would feel with TWO brand new healthy batteries! Not a bad expenditure of dollars!

John Kuthe...