Voltage drop question

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That is not ideal, but is acceptable for your amp. When dropping that low, your starving your on board electronics such as headlights for instance. It takes power to make power, so I bet if you did a few electrical upgrades, you would retain peace of mind as well as more power, because we all know the lower frequencies is where power is needed.

 
That is not ideal, but is acceptable for your amp. When dropping that low, your starving your on board electronics such as headlights for instance. It takes power to make power, so I bet if you did a few electrical upgrades, you would retain peace of mind as well as more power, because we all know the lower frequencies is where power is needed.
I have done the Big3 and have a 130a alt (replaced the stock 65a) all that's left is the battery as I'm still running a plane Jane battery

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I have done the Big3 and have a 130a alt (replaced the stock 65a) all that's left is the battery as I'm still running a plane Jane battery
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What is the total amount of watts your whole system draws? This should include every amp you have added together. (RMS Number Only)

 
What is the total amount of watts your whole system draws? This should include every amp you have added together. (RMS Number Only)
With gains set the way I have it now should be around 850-875 not sure though cause I'm using a pyramid amp for my highs and mids I know my sub amp is set using a DMM right at 800watts

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With gains set the way I have it now should be around 850-875 not sure though cause I'm using a pyramid amp for my highs and mids I know my sub amp is set using a DMM right at 800watts
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I used a calculator to calculate the amount of power you have. At 13.3v and 65 amps (considering the other 65 is for your primary car electronics) your looking at 865 watts. At 14.5v and 65 amps, your looking at 950 watts. The numbers add up, so my best advise would be to get a car audio battery, such as Kinetik or XS to help out with the voltage drop.

 
I doubt that my car uses 65a considering that the only thing electric in it that's being used during the day is the stereo and fuel pump lol

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---------- Post added at 11:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 PM ----------

 

I used a calculator to calculate the amount of power you have. At 13.3v and 65 amps (considering the other 65 is for your primary car electronics) your looking at 865 watts. At 14.5v and 65 amps, your looking at 950 watts. The numbers add up, so my best advise would be to get a car audio battery, such as Kinetik or XS to help out with the voltage drop.

I doubt that my car uses 65a considering that the only thing electric in it that's being used during the day is the stereo and fuel pump lol
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I doubt that my car uses 65a considering that the only thing electric in it that's being used during the day is the stereo and fuel pump lol
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---------- Post added at 11:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 PM ----------

 

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I would probably have to agree with you there, but we can't necessarily rule that out. Its been a while since I've seen a 65 amp alternator, and I feel as if the manufacture put that in there to meet the bare minimum. Chances are your not playing your system at full blast either and I assure you your amps aren't pulling 850 watts at volume level 10, but something is causing this voltage drop.if I might ask, why did you end up not getting a car audio battery? If you dont have the money, you could buy another battery with the exact specs of your primary, and run an isolator.

 
I would probably have to agree with you there, but we can't necessarily rule that out. Its been a while since I've seen a 65 amp alternator, and I feel as if the manufacture put that in there to meet the bare minimum. Chances are your not playing your system at full blast either and I assure you your amps aren't pulling 850 watts at volume level 10, but something is causing this voltage drop.if I might ask, why did you end up not getting a car audio battery? If you dont have the money, you could buy another battery with the exact specs of your primary, and run an isolator.
Haven't had the money to upgrade at all yet. I messed with some settings on the HU it has a gain setting for high power or low power only thing I can tell is it changes the Max volume from 55 to 30 I set the gains at 36 never turn it up past 30 so I switched to low power and voltage only drops to 14 now battery is my next step regardless though

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Haven't had the money to upgrade at all yet. I messed with some settings on the HU it has a gain setting for high power or low power only thing I can tell is it changes the Max volume from 55 to 30 I set the gains at 36 never turn it up past 30 so I switched to low power and voltage only drops to 14 now battery is my next step regardless though
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I definitely think that is the cause behind all of this.

 
What the battery?
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Correct. Your pulling too much from it and batteries don't instantly recharge, so an H/O alternator will charge it faster, but not as fast as you would think. If you were to keep taking power from it over the period of a song, you would need to let it charge back up. The car audio batteries use deeper cells, so it allows more power to be stored in them.

 
Correct. Your pulling too much from it and batteries don't instantly recharge, so an H/O alternator will charge it faster, but not as fast as you would think. If you were to keep taking power from it over the period of a song, you would need to let it charge back up. The car audio batteries use deeper cells, so it allows more power to be stored in them.
OK carquest sells a 100ah battery for $150 so I might pick it up when I have the money

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13.3 isn't ideal, but is fine for your amp's power supply.
Yes, generic rebadged AGM's are the best value
I know amp has low voltage shut off actually shut off a couple times with stock alt so I'm trying to keep her happy now lol now that I messed with the HU settings lowest I've seen it go is 13.9/8 so I think a new battery will solve the issue

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