Voltage Drop Question

You can easily test for voltage drop with a multimeter. Measure voltage at one point in the circuit, and then measure it farther in the circuit, the difference between the 2 voltages is your voltage drop, and should be minimal (i'm assuming you are talking about your amp power wire), so check for voltage at the fuse by the battery. write that reading down (it should be about 12.6v with the car not running. Then check voltage at the amp input. should still be very near 12.6v, if it's lower, you have unwanted resistance between the 2 points (bad wire, poor contact at the fuse, poor wire contact in a fuse holder) Hope that helps.

 
You can easily test for voltage drop with a multimeter. Measure voltage at one point in the circuit, and then measure it farther in the circuit, the difference between the 2 voltages is your voltage drop, and should be minimal (i'm assuming you are talking about your amp power wire), so check for voltage at the fuse by the battery. write that reading down (it should be about 12.6v with the car not running. Then check voltage at the amp input. should still be very near 12.6v, if it's lower, you have unwanted resistance between the 2 points (bad wire, poor contact at the fuse, poor wire contact in a fuse holder) Hope that helps.

great info! thanks. so i should test it whiel car is off right? red connector on the wire and the black on any ground? DCV setting? ok thanks.

 
I got a $15 volt gauge at an auto store, connected it to a fuse in my fuse box under my sterring wheel, up to the second voltage drop, accurate to about .1 volts(testes with DMM), its cool cuase the needle bounces with the bass

 
great info! thanks. so i should test it whiel car is off right? red connector on the wire and the black on any ground? DCV setting? ok thanks.
You can test it with the car running, or not, the only difference is the alternator raising system voltage to around 14.5 volts, rather than 12.6, though the same testing method still applies, any difference = voltage drop. To the guy that said a volt-meter, that's what a multimeter is, it does voltage, resistaance (ohms/continuity) and often amperage, all in one tool, so it is far more versitile than just a volt-meter.

 
You can test it with the car running, or not, the only difference is the alternator raising system voltage to around 14.5 volts, rather than 12.6, though the same testing method still applies, any difference = voltage drop. To the guy that said a volt-meter, that's what a multimeter is, it does voltage, resistaance (ohms/continuity) and often amperage, all in one tool, so it is far more versitile than just a volt-meter.
yeah a DMM is very vesatile, but what I meant is it is an actual analoug gauge mounted on my dash so I know my voltage when I driving down the road, its pretty nice cuase you see slight voltage drops like when turning on the lights or even putting down a power window, plus it adds a little looks to the interior

 
yeah a DMM is very vesatile, but what I meant is it is an actual analoug gauge mounted on my dash so I know my voltage when I driving down the road, its pretty nice cuase you see slight voltage drops like when turning on the lights or even putting down a power window, plus it adds a little looks to the interior
Gotcha, I just hate having needles and stuff flashing as I drive. I hate all the retarded movies on my head unit, but I get what you are saying.

 
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