Viper 5701 problem

[emmd2001]

Hoping someone here can help me. I have a couple of problems with my Viper 5701, installed in a 2010 Honda Insight.

First, the car no longer beeps when the alarm is armed/disarmed. My remote gives the appropriate beeps, but the car does not. The lights on the car still flash, but there is no sound from the car.

Second, the alarm doesn't seem to be functioning... I've tried opening locked doors and shaking the car, and nothing. I don't know if this is related to the first problem, or is an entirely different one.

Lastly, the system seems to drain the car battery fairly fast... if the car is left for a week, it won't start.

Any help is appreciated. Thank you!

Click to read more...

 

[SentraStyle 10+ year member]

It sounds like your alarm is in valet mode. The easiest way to tell is to look at the status LED. If it is constantly on...it is in valet mode. Can't help w/ the battery draining though.

 

[emmd2001]

the blue LED is not on at all...

 

[jrouter76 10+ year member]

Did you instsall it yourself? there seems to ne a direct short of some kind in your CONSTANT 12 volt Wires,that most likely is draining your battery,Second the direct short could have damged or fried your Brain Module for the Alarm.

 

[emmd2001]

System was not installed myself - it was installed at a BestBuy in a state where I no longer reside.

Fixed the chirping/alarm issue... somehow got into Valet mode, but wouldn't come out.

But still can't get the battery issue fixed. What is odd is that I had the same model installed in 2 separate vehicles (1 which I have since sold) by BestBuy, and the battery drain issue was on both vehicles. It is fine unless the car sits for > 1 week, at which time it is dead.

How would I check for a short and/or correct it if that is the case?

 

[jrouter76 10+ year member]

Best Buy is the Problem,they are not hooking up those power wires correctly and it is causing your drian problem,pay a REAL ALARM Shop to hook it up right,count your cost with Best Buy they are not a Great Place to get your Alarms installed.Good Luick.

System was not installed myself - it was installed at a BestBuy in a state where I no longer reside.
Fixed the chirping/alarm issue... somehow got into Valet mode, but wouldn't come out.

But still can't get the battery issue fixed. What is odd is that I had the same model installed in 2 separate vehicles (1 which I have since sold) by BestBuy, and the battery drain issue was on both vehicles. It is fine unless the car sits for > 1 week, at which time it is dead.

How would I check for a short and/or correct it if that is the case?

 

[NFrazier 10+ year member]

Best Buy is the Problem,they are not hooking up those power wires correctly and it is causing your drian problem,pay a REAL ALARM Shop to hook it up right,count your cost with Best Buy they are not a Great Place to get your Alarms installed.Good Luick.

Bold statement for someone who hasn't actually looked at or tested the problem(s).

What state do you live in? I know a few techs across the nation that will take a look at it and will be able to tell you exactly what is wrong. From ~10 years of professional installation experience I can say that all three issues can also point to a bad brain. Sounds like these issues just started to arise, not something that's been like that since it was done?

 

[emmd2001]

Is the blue light supposed to blink constantly when the system is armed?

As for timing of the issues, the battery drain has been ever since installed. The unit entering valet mode was only about 1 month ago, and I finally fixed that issue.

I live in NC.

 

[jrouter76 10+ year member]

Bold Statment for you to make without giving Him a Solution,I know that there is a problem in the way the Alarm has been installed can you agree on that?

Bold statement for someone who hasn't actually looked at or tested the problem(s).
What state do you live in? I know a few techs across the nation that will take a look at it and will be able to tell you exactly what is wrong. From ~10 years of professional installation experience I can say that all three issues can also point to a bad brain. Sounds like these issues just started to arise, not something that's been like that since it was done?

 

[NFrazier 10+ year member]

Bold Statment for you to make without giving Him a Solution,I know that there is a problem in the way the Alarm has been installed can you agree on that?

No, I can't as I'm not physically there testing whether there's a parasitic draw on the battery caused by the remote start. Secondly, can you agree that IF the brain or the bypass is in some way faulty and causing a parasitic draw, this can occur as well? Moreover, this is even an issue with some of XpressKit's and iDataLink's bypasses (that have, by definition, a parasitic current current draw and thus if the car is sitting for an extended period of time it may cause issues with the cars battery).

So, in short, am I ruling out that it was installed incorrectly? No. Am I saying that's definitely the problem; absolutely not. If it happens to be that you are a tech then you should know from experience that stating, without using that fancy little thing called a DMM, is just speculation based on an educated guess.

Not trying to be rude or doubt your reasoning, but there could be many things at play here. For instance, had a dealership we frequently do work for say we caused a draining issue on a remote start on a Hyundai. Tested our work, no issues with what the shop did, from the factory the dome light wire was pinched keeping the dome light on ever so slightly (not really noticeable). Needless to say, after a few months of back and forth, Hyundai took care of it.

EDIT: BTW Yes, when armed the LED should be blinking.

You can do 1 of 2 things.

1. Take it to an HONEST and knowledgeable shop ( which will be hard to find as apparently everyone can't have an open mind anymore and most self-proclaimed "specialty" shops line to squeeze money out of their customers - but hey that's why I get all the loyal customers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif )

2. Take it back to the store, or a different store, ( I know of a Master tech that works somewhere in Texas, I'll need to see where that is ) and have them look at it. There's a warranty as far as I know they still offer a lifetime warranty on their work. Speculation on the internet isn't going to get us anywhere and you most likely won't be able to fix it if there's an issue.

 

[jrouter76 10+ year member]

Speculation is not my M.O.I`m telling you there is aproblem in the way it was INSTALLED,type of connectors used can cause wires to come loose and touch causing a drain,OP noted that his battery was drained pretty quickly...We do agree that he needs to take his car to a qualified shop other then best buy.

No, I can't as I'm not physically there testing whether there's a parasitic draw on the battery caused by the remote start. Secondly, can you agree that IF the brain or the bypass is in some way faulty and causing a parasitic draw, this can occur as well? Moreover, this is even an issue with some of XpressKit's and iDataLink's bypasses (that have, by definition, a parasitic current current draw and thus if the car is sitting for an extended period of time it may cause issues with the cars battery).
So, in short, am I ruling out that it was installed incorrectly? No. Am I saying that's definitely the problem; absolutely not. If it happens to be that you are a tech then you should know from experience that stating, without using that fancy little thing called a DMM, is just speculation based on an educated guess.

Not trying to be rude or doubt your reasoning, but there could be many things at play here. For instance, had a dealership we frequently do work for say we caused a draining issue on a remote start on a Hyundai. Tested our work, no issues with what the shop did, from the factory the dome light wire was pinched keeping the dome light on ever so slightly (not really noticeable). Needless to say, after a few months of back and forth, Hyundai took care of it.

EDIT: BTW Yes, when armed the LED should be blinking.

You can do 1 of 2 things.

1. Take it to an HONEST and knowledgeable shop ( which will be hard to find as apparently everyone can't have an open mind anymore and most self-proclaimed "specialty" shops line to squeeze money out of their customers - but hey that's why I get all the loyal customers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif )

2. Take it back to the store, or a different store, ( I know of a Master tech that works somewhere in Texas, I'll need to see where that is ) and have them look at it. There's a warranty as far as I know they still offer a lifetime warranty on their work. Speculation on the internet isn't going to get us anywhere and you most likely won't be able to fix it if there's an issue.

 

[NFrazier 10+ year member]

We can agree that he needs to get it looked at, by who is another question. I'm kinda of taken back by your comment "type of connectors" used.

Let's go over the shops in my area. Besides my shop, every "specialty shop" around me uses T-Taps to do ALL interfacing. The Best Buy down the street only uses military splices and solder on all their interfacing.... So I'm confused on the "connectors" they use....

Speculation is the act of speculating which means "to meditate on or ponder a subject;" with synonyms of: "conjecture, guess, surmise, suppose, theorize." Unless you went to the OP's house and looked at the install and tested it, you are speculating.

Once again, I'm not saying the install is NOT to blame, but I'm not saying it is. If he can take pics of the install then I'll go more into my speculation of the issues at hand.

EDIT: Lets further investigate this. Apparently a battery issue is not UNCOMMON with the Insight:

http://www.edmunds.com/honda/insight/2010/consumer-reviews/car-dead-for-the-third.html?style=101153492&sub=&reviewId=459553617

http://priuschat.com/threads/dying-batteries-in-honda-insight.1748/

http://www.edmunds.com/honda/insight/2010/consumer-reviews/2/

http://www.edmunds.com/honda/insight/2010/consumer-reviews/very-disappointed-in-honda.html?style=101153492&sub=&reviewId=234301729

http://www.edmunds.com/honda/insight/2010/consumer-reviews/lots-of-problems.html?style=101153492&sub=&reviewId=229681699

That's just some of the complaints of the car's battery dieing or needing to be replaced within a short time. So before you jump at a shop, no matter their "reputation," we should really look for the solution by using our knowledge and skills then just throw names out there.

 

[emmd2001]

New problem now - batteries in the 2 way remote died.

Replaced 2 CR2016 with 1 CR2032. The remote works, but now after any command, the command goes through but then a few seconds later the red light beeps and chimes twice. This continues until I press any button.

Thoughts?

 

[NFrazier 10+ year member]

New problem now - batteries in the 2 way remote died.
Replaced 2 CR2016 with 1 CR2032. The remote works, but now after any command, the command goes through but then a few seconds later the red light beeps and chimes twice. This continues until I press any button.

Thoughts?

You have to replace the 2 2016 w 2 2016s. Each battery is 3v, so two of them would be 6v. If you replace it with 1 2032 - yes its thickness is the same, but it is only 1 3v battery. The remote is beeping at you to tell you the batteries (in this case battery) is low.

 

[bojangle]

I have a 2008 cadillac cts and had the viper 5701 with smart start installed. I to am having the battery die after 4 or 5 days if the car is not started.