Use fuse rating when comparing amps

Sounds like everyone else hit this one. It is a method of comparing amps. Simple fact is, one with a 30 amp fuse can take in 30 amps and one with a 20 amp fuse can only take in 20. Does that mean the 30 is better? Not really. The efficiency of any given amp can vary from 40% to 90%. That means that a really efficient amp (90% full output) with a 50 amp fuse can do 540 watts (12v). A really inefficient amp (40%) will take in over 110 amps to do the same amount of power.

 
Sounds like everyone else hit this one. It is a method of comparing amps. Simple fact is, one with a 30 amp fuse can take in 30 amps and one with a 20 amp fuse can only take in 20. Does that mean the 30 is better? Not really. The efficiency of any given amp can vary from 40% to 90%. That means that a really efficient amp (90% full output) with a 50 amp fuse can do 540 watts (12v). A really inefficient amp (40%) will take in over 110 amps to do the same amount of power.

Also remember that a fuse can handle twice it's fuse rating for a very short period of time before it burns up. So, that 30A fuse could pass 60A for very quick, highly demanding transients in music.

 
Just got a pm from snb778....

Doesnt not having a fuse in an amp mean that you can drop the impedence of the amp basically until it fries...?

Just like the R.F. 1000.1bd and 1500.1bd Noob

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Hell yeah. I'de buy an amp built by teh awsome, amazing, incredible Squeakness.
Insert butt kissing sounds...
I would! I'm on a retard rampage!

retard.jpg


 
fact is the amps companies don't list their efficiency. All you have to go by is the fuse rating. Are you going to go off their rated wattage? lol

 
also there is no such thing as a 90% AB amp. I think mofset AB amps are all pretty close in effeciency. Mabey +/- 10%

 
The efficiency of any given amp can vary from 40% to 90%.
25% to 90%...don't forget Class A //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

To the original poster - look, you're a troll, and a rather unimaginative one at that. CEA-2006 compliance will make sure the reputable companies are truthful to their rated powers, but then again, most of them were beforehand. The non-reputable ones, well, that won't change anything as they won't seek CEA certification. I've played around with several Class A amps before - just because they're like mini-space heaters makes them a better amp? No. It has to do with the behavior of the active devices, not how much heat the thing puts out. That's a byproduct of the design, not the telltale thing to look for.

[/story]

 
uh the stuff people say on here???well i know for that the fuse says alote about the amp.but all so look to see if the amp is tested in accordane with CEA stadards if not then it may not be that ''1000w ''amp you that you bought so BEWARE of some overstated numbers too produce a 1000 watts this type of'' power'' large amouts of current are required effectively managing large power requirements requires a very larg heat sink too look at the size of the heat sink and the cooling system too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif that's my 2 cent's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
^ Word.

Jack Frost: According to BCAE (I think) some class D amps can do up to 95% efficiency at full output, and class H average 96%. Seeing as some competitions are going by power consumption now, I see high efficiency amps becoming all the rage. Bad news for you vacuum tube guys. Not like they would be practical in a car anyway. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
DesertHeat has some knowledge of OTL amps, although he still hasn't bought them IIRC...

I know Ryan (Tirefryr) has heard one, albeit a hybrid //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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