Upgrading my budget system [Help Wanted] 6/29/2016

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So, I'm even more confused than I was before. I learned a little bit but IT just brought me more and more questions. To start What is a band pass filter? What is a high Pass filter? and what Is a low pass filter? And how do I know how to use each one? Also how the hell do I go active? I'm extremely confused do I need to buy an RTA? or a DSP? or another amp? I have absolutely no Idea what all these equipment does and what I would do to go active? Another thing I really, really don't understand Is the "peak" What is a peak and why is it bad and why do you want to fix it? Also why do you want to play pink noise and do all this fancy stuff with a microphone?

All those filters, you can easily google them up. You dont really need the RTA but it helps a lot because most of the times your ears cannot tell where the peak is. Peak is when there's too much of something in the sound and it destroys the overall sound quality.

See why i had you go passive, A lil bit too advanced for you atm.

 

[Jcdanible]

All those filters, you can easily google them up. You dont really need the RTA but it helps a lot because most of the times your ears cannot tell where the peak is. Peak is when there's too much of something in the sound and it destroys the overall sound quality.

See why i had you go passive, A lil bit too advanced for you atm.

Yeah, I'm just always up to learn new stuff and I'm someone that never really settles for just ok or decent. Plus I've figured that I have to learn at some point...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, I'm just always up to learn new stuff and I'm someone that never really settles for just ok or decent. Plus I've figured that I have to learn at some point...

You arent even finished with tuning your current setup right, dont look to far in the future, finish whats on your current plate first. Get your EQ and time alignment on point and deaden your doors, do a proper install.

 

[Jcdanible]

You arent even finished with tuning your current setup right, dont look to far in the future, finish whats on your current plate first. Get your EQ and time alignment on point and deaden your doors, do a proper install.

Alright, will do. I'll work on getting my current setup nice and finishing tuning and what not but I can't deaden doors on this car because I'm getting a new one soon. Tbh after tuning the amps and setting gains and everything how do I actually EQ with my head unit? Like I understand all the settings just don't understand what I should be looking for or wanting to change..?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Alright, will do. I'll work on getting my current setup nice and finishing tuning and what not but I can't deaden doors on this car because I'm getting a new one soon. Tbh after tuning the amps and setting gains and everything how do I actually EQ with my head unit? Like I understand all the settings just don't understand what I should be looking for or wanting to change..?

Id seriously look up local MECA SQ competitions to demo proper cars first so you know what you are gunning for.

For now, just play around, theres set eq curves, pick the one the sounds best to you then start modifying it.

You should at least get from sounds good to sounds Great with a few hours of EQ in.

You can even set individual left and right EQ to improve the stage as well.

 

[Jcdanible]

Id seriously look up local MECA SQ competitions to demo proper cars first so you know what you are gunning for.
For now, just play around, theres set eq curves, pick the one the sounds best to you then start modifying it.

You should at least get from sounds good to sounds Great with a few hours of EQ in.

You can even set individual left and right EQ to improve the stage as well.

Awesome I'll try that out, and I will look up the local MECA SQ competitions because I really do want to see some examples... And As I expected looks Like I'll be buying a different car pretty soon here. But that's not for sure yet.

 

[Jcdanible]

Id seriously look up local MECA SQ competitions to demo proper cars first so you know what you are gunning for.
For now, just play around, theres set eq curves, pick the one the sounds best to you then start modifying it.

You should at least get from sounds good to sounds Great with a few hours of EQ in.

You can even set individual left and right EQ to improve the stage as well.

Figured a lot out, and I was surprised when you said " good to great in a few hours" you sure meant it. Sounds a hell of a lot better... Now a few questions! As always

Is there a way to make it easier to switch EQ's I hate scrolling through their default ones to either select my custom 1 or custom 2? Or can I delete them? Or make them all flat? Or change the names? I just want to be able to delete them or edit them all? Also I'd love to change the names of my custom 1 and custom 2.

So I did a pretty big increase of highs and miss and that's what it seemed to need most of the mids and highs went up to 3, 4 or even all the way to 6 and (this is for my rock/metal/hardcore heavy playlist) some pop and country too. But it still sounds like I can't get the mids and highs to cut as loud as they should or sound brighter. Suggestions?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Figured a lot out, and I was surprised when you said " good to great in a few hours" you sure meant it. Sounds a hell of a lot better... Now a few questions! As always
Is there a way to make it easier to switch EQ's I hate scrolling through their default ones to either select my custom 1 or custom 2? Or can I delete them? Or make them all flat? Or change the names? I just want to be able to delete them or edit them all? Also I'd love to change the names of my custom 1 and custom 2.

So I did a pretty big increase of highs and miss and that's what it seemed to need most of the mids and highs went up to 3, 4 or even all the way to 6 and (this is for my rock/metal/hardcore heavy playlist) some pop and country too. But it still sounds like I can't get the mids and highs to cut as loud as they should or sound brighter. Suggestions?

Don't boost more than 2db. Cut around it to bring it out.

 

[Jcdanible]

Don't boost more than 2db. Cut around it to bring it out.

Am I boosting the db? I didn't think I was boosting volume I thought I was just changing what the speakers play I'm confused.

What I'm doing is selecting the 1st eq option and picking custom 1 then selecting option 2 and editing all the levels and you have from -6 to 6 should I not boost those past 2?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Am I boosting the db? I didn't think I was boosting volume I thought I was just changing what the speakers play I'm confused.
What I'm doing is selecting the 1st eq option and picking custom 1 then selecting option 2 and editing all the levels and you have from -6 to 6 should I not boost those past 2?

Start with flat. Then make your custom. Correct try not to boost at all. Cut peaks.

 

[Jcdanible]

Start with flat. Then make your custom. Correct try not to boost at all. Cut peaks.

Alright ill try that but I'm confused are you trying to say I should have the EQ flat? Or only boost past 2 and lower everything else? I've made an eq with everything at higher levels and it sounded great. What's the harm in boosting high?

And are there ways to custom name each eq and or delete other default ones?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Its harmful if you push the setup past its limits.

Sounds like you need better power. At least 100 watts rms per side minimal IMHO.

Your custom 1, 2 and flat should be side by side so theres no reason to scroll through all of them, you just need to get familiar with it. No custom names, just use your memory, not that much of a hassle considering most head units on the market only offer 1 custom EQ and its only 5 bands vs this 16 band.

 

[Jcdanible]

All those filters, you can easily google them up. You dont really need the RTA but it helps a lot because most of the times your ears cannot tell where the peak is. Peak is when there's too much of something in the sound and it destroys the overall sound quality.

See why i had you go passive, A lil bit too advanced for you atm.

Ok, I think I've actually got to a point where I understand going active. Going active is setting your own crossover points (DUH) and there is 2 or 3 way active and 3 way is the most popular. 3 way is mid, high,and mid-bass and basically the only way to go active is to either have a 4 channel amp with a x10 multiplier, a DSP or a head unit that lets you go active. Not sure what the huge difference is between them besides of course having more exact and specific crossover points with a head unit or DSP vs a 4 channel amp. I think I'm right...?

But for my situation I will use the 4 channel amp to power both Tweeters and both Woofers and they will be ran to the head unit which makes them active. As far as the rear door speakers I will either not use them or run them directly to my HU. I will also flip the switch to advanced mode on the back of HU. Now at this point I have to do all the crossovers myself and try and level out the EQ. My question is though, Since my 4 channel amp has crossovers will the Head unit automatically override those crossovers or will the crossovers on my 4 channel amp mess with the head unit crossovers? Not sure If that makes sense...? But I realize how much bigger and better an EQ can be after going active so I want to do it.

Its harmful if you push the setup past its limits.
Sounds like you need better power. At least 100 watts rms per side minimal IMHO.

When you say sounds like you need better power, What do you mean? and also what do you mean by 100 watts RMS per side..? Like speakers that can handle more wattage or an amp that can send more wattage to speakers..?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ok, I think I've actually got to a point where I understand going active. Going active is setting your own crossover points (DUH) and there is 2 or 3 way active and 3 way is the most popular. 3 way is mid, high,and mid-bass and basically the only way to go active is to either have a 4 channel amp with a x10 multiplier, a DSP or a head unit that lets you go active. Not sure what the huge difference is between them besides of course having more exact and specific crossover points with a head unit or DSP vs a 4 channel amp. I think I'm right...?
But for my situation I will use the 4 channel amp to power both Tweeters and both Woofers and they will be ran to the head unit which makes them active. As far as the rear door speakers I will either not use them or run them directly to my HU. I will also flip the switch to advanced mode on the back of HU. Now at this point I have to do all the crossovers myself and try and level out the EQ. My question is though, Since my 4 channel amp has crossovers will the Head unit automatically override those crossovers or will the crossovers on my 4 channel amp mess with the head unit crossovers? Not sure If that makes sense...? But I realize how much bigger and better an EQ can be after going active so I want to do it.

When you say sounds like you need better power, What do you mean? and also what do you mean by 100 watts RMS per side..? Like speakers that can handle more wattage or an amp that can send more wattage to speakers..?

You need a bigger amp that sends at least 100 to 150 watts per side. Your current amp is 30 or 50 watts only. Dont buy junk brands that lie about power either.

You got the right idea about going active with the 80 prs, thats the gist of it. As for amp crossovers, you turn them completely off. There sould be a full pass option in most amps

 

[Jcdanible]

You need a bigger amp that sends at least 100 to 150 watts per side. Your current amp is 30 or 50 watts only. Dont buy junk brands that lie about power either.
You got the right idea about going active with the 80 prs, thats the gist of it. As for amp crossovers, you turn them completely off. There sould be a full pass option in most amps

Any amps you would recommend? and I'm assuming 4 channel? Would the PPI 900.4 be something good for my situation?

Also can I run 150 watts through my speakers? the RMS rating is 180 but, 90 per side.