upgrading electrical?

[sobe3yourself. 10+ year member]

i believe in having more than you need.

^^^^this

 

[sobe3yourself. 10+ year member]

Sobe, how low do you drop on a constistant beat, lets say on a song like Air Forces by young jeezy? Or do you stay up in the 13s?

14.1

 

[JDKauff5 10+ year member]

thanks for all the replies so far guys i just want to specify the 2500rms is including speakers too so the subs themselves will be around 2000 so i dont know if that would make much of a difference. So i no the big 3 is a must. I just looked up the stock alternator and it is rated at 130amps so if i paired this with a optima red top or a similar high quality battery would this be sufficient or would an additional battery or better alternator be needed?

 

[Bob Saget]

thanks for all the replies so far guys i just want to specify the 2500rms is including speakers too so the subs themselves will be around 2000 so i dont know if that would make much of a difference. So i no the big 3 is a must. I just looked up the stock alternator and it is rated at 130amps so if i paired this with a optima red top or a similar high quality battery would this be sufficient or would an additional battery or better alternator be needed?

Where in NC are you? I can help you out brah.

 

[power-fanatic07 5,000+ posts]

2500W rms on a regular basis is extremely difficult to achieve, unless you like listening to test tones. music is dynamic and most recording rarely have enough well recorded and mixed low end.
regardless, you'll most likely need at least one 300A HO alt, a bank of AGM batteries, and a few spools of 1/0 wire. solder your ring terminals, color code you wire, and take good care to properly fuse so you don't set your truck on fire.

monitor voltage constantly and ensure the system is able to maintain >13.5V while driving and listening at your desired levels. plan on spending a $1500 in electrical upgrades - good batteries and a good alt are expensive.

Holy fucking failboat batman and robin. You don't need a bank of batts AND 300a alternator for 2500w. Hell, I have a single DC 270a alternator and an xs power 3400 under my hood and can easily run 2k with zero voltage drop.

For your application since you have a big truck with plenty of room under the hood I would get the biggest and baddest alt you can get from DC Power or Mechman and then slap a D3100 under the hood and you're good to go for up to 3kw.

 

[JDKauff5 10+ year member]

Where in NC are you? I can help you out brah.

I live in Huntersville but im in college at NCSU right now im just trying to plan everything out for a summer build.

Holy fucking failboat batman and robin. You don't need a bank of batts AND 300a alternator for 2500w. Hell' date=' I have a single DC 270a alternator and an xs power 3400 under my hood and can easily run 2k with zero voltage drop.
For your application since you have a big truck with plenty of room under the hood I would get the biggest and baddest alt you can get from DC Power or Mechman and then slap a D3100 under the hood and you're good to go for up to 3kw.[/quote']

Okay thanks for your answer id much rather just run one battery than have to worry about multiple ones. So basically biggest battery i can find and a HO alternator and im good to go?

 

[Bob Saget]

I live in Huntersville but im in college at NCSU right now im just trying to plan everything out for a summer build.

Okay thanks for your answer id much rather just run one battery than have to worry about multiple ones. So basically biggest battery i can find and a HO alternator and im good to go?

250A alternator w/ a Kinetik HC2400 & 2 runs of 1/0 big 3.

just my .02

...btw, I'm @ UNC Charlotte, hit me up if you need any help when you start. I love installing equipment in my free time.

 

[JDKauff5 10+ year member]

250A alternator w/ a Kinetik HC2400 & 2 runs of 1/0 big 3.
just my .02

...btw' date=' I'm @ UNC Charlotte, hit me up if you need any help when you start. I love installing equipment in my free time.[/quote']

thanks alot and i probably will because im new to the whole electrical thing

 

[Firebird 1991 10+ year member]

you got a 383 in that bird?

yes i do! i just relized your from the QC. Do i know you? PM me man

 

[Firebird 1991 10+ year member]

I have no issues helping the lad, but to tell someone that they should plan on spending $1500 on electrical for 2500w is borderline stupid.

^^ agreed

 

[smoka 10+ year member]

14.1

Lol, you are stupid if you think you maintain a 14.1v with a stock alt.

 

[95BlackGA 5,000+ posts]

I'd suggest Big 3, a decent batt up front, and one in back. My buddy has a 1750.1 on a stock Accord alt. (Which he says is like 85-90amps), and a single yellow top. He never drops below 12.3V with the amp running @ 1 ohm, on music.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

Depends on your stock alt. I have a 160amp alt stock and ran ~2kw class d watts and ~400 a/b watts. I had a run of 1/0, Big 3, a HC2000 under the hood, and a Batcap 2000 in the back. When I was doing burps I'd obviously drop down to battery voltage pretty easily, but it wouldn't really budge much after it hit that 12.7-12.8V area that the batts rest at. IMO as long as you can control the voltage drop after it gets past the capabilities of the alt(ie: enough batts to stop voltage drop in the high 12's), you'll be fine so long as the power you're running is less than your stock alternator amperage x2(just made that up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif) in order to not totally overwork the alt with recharging responsibilities.

 

[sobe3yourself. 10+ year member]

Lol, you are stupid if you think you maintain a 14.1v with a stock alt.

I do. I don't turn it up too loud.

I don't have a stock alt, persay, it's just not an HO alt. I think it's 160 amps

 

[sobe3yourself. 10+ year member]

Lol, you are stupid if you think you maintain a 14.1v with a stock alt.

I do. I don't turn it up too loud.

I don't have a stock alt, persay, it's just not an HO alt. I think it's 160 amps