Type R cant hit 80hz?

[fawd06 10+ year member]

just sell the type r too me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[shava 10+ year member]

Yeah the only thing is with a -6db tone the clip light on my amp goes insane on some songs so I just set it according to that. So I very rarely see the light come on for even a split second. And the reason I have the bass at -6 is so my door speakers can take being turned up to volume 26/30

Right now my x-over is around 70-80hz. I have a spare amp but im pretty much wondering why those higher notes are not hitting at all with this new amp

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

is the box new from the last one? is it too small for the sub? if the box is different form the last box you used it could be that the box just doesnt work with this particular sub. we ran my friends type r off of almost 2k watts in a 2.5 cube ported box and it hit like a mofo for a 12. but yea i wouldnt nececarilly use the clip light dbfan has shown that on certain amps the clip light will go on wayy before the amp ever starts clipping. at least with a dmm youll get a good start to diagnosing the problem. hell even use a -3 db tone. i suggested 6 cause i use that with my ia 20.1 and magnum and ive never had a rpoblem.

also ill say it again. make sure you sub is wired up right. if its meant to be in parrelel make sure it is, if its meant to be in series make sure it is. just an example, a duel 2 ohm sub will wire up to either 1 ohm or 4 ohms...and between those two the power output difference is huge.

 

[shava 10+ year member]

Its a different box, but 1.5 cubes is good for these subs. I will try the DMM route tomorrow.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

Its a different box, but 1.5 cubes is good for these subs. I will try the DMM route tomorrow.

use the dmm, set it to ohms and make sure your getting the correct resistenace you want to amp to see. a lot easier using the dmm than pulling out the sub and checking it visually.

 

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

You have the bass on your headunit set to -6... this is your problem. The bass EQ on the headunit is probably right around 80-100hz. You're cutting this by a large amount.

Go back and set the bass to 0 and reset your gain with your crossover on the amp at it's highest setting. This should help get you some more output in the 80hz region.

 

[shava 10+ year member]

Yeah thats what I thought but I dont want this to kill my speakers in the front. Cause right around 32-35hz they get moving... Thats why I had the bass down in the first place. Im thinking about ****ing with it now, but its still 4:25am and I have school in the morning :O

 

[shava 10+ year member]

The only thing is when my bass is at 0 it sounds better but it seems to me like its killing the 6.5's I have up front at 24/30. They are aftermarket older pioneer premier series ones that im sure can handle at least 30w rms. Im just running them off the HU so they can only be getting like 20wrms. I doubt its clipping them at 24/30 so do you think I should just leave it there? Or turn it down? I just dont want to blow these cause now im really short on cash.

 

[kicker06 10+ year member]

That dial is the LPF.

lawl.

 

[Twistid 5,000+ posts]

omg what are all you people telling him

your sub isent supposed to go up to 80hz

20-75 at the highest... your mids are supposed to pick up then ...

unless you had a fart box @ 50 hz or something

 

[headless 10+ year member]

The problem doesn't appear to be with the sub, it sounds like your speakers are worthless or they are clipping badly when attempting to get to lower frequencies (quite likely) and thus sounding terrible. You are then using the EQ on your deck to try to keep the fronts from sounding like shit, but when you do, the signal to the sub is also effected. HU power is not sufficient to have any components up front work with your sub stage. You need to amplify a decent set of components in the front, set all your EQ levels to 0 (bass, mid, high), then set the gain on your amp so that it matches your components. Then tweak the EQ a little bit to get the tone you want. You should pretty much never have your shit set all the way to -6 or +6 if that's the max range...if you do need that kind of drastic EQ, chances are something is configured incorrectly.

 

[TeoTorriatte 10+ year member]

Buy a decent set of components and an amp to run them... should solve most of your problems.

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

you need to amp your speakers and run them on a hp filter. Better yet amp some componets, some good ones you buy seperate like from parts express, run your system 3 way with the midbass from likt 60up and subs 60 down, atleast thats how i like mine, but if all you can afford is the amp run the doors 80-100up, then lp your sub at whatever your hp is

 

[headless 10+ year member]

Good point, i just realised that deck does not have a crossover feature at all...that would be running those pioneer's full range off of deck power. Bad news //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Just like the subwoofer is crossed over @ 80hz LOW PASS, the fronts should be crossed over @ 80hz HIGH PASS.

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

Set the lpf around 70 hz