Building a sub, info needed!

young_gun
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Ok, so I have two 15's using the TC9 motor (eD b615s to be exact) and I have no use for 15"ers and I'd like to recone them to 10's or 12's. I'd be looking for SPL out of these. But anyway, what I'm asking is info on speaker building. I've never done it but I wanna learn. So some of the things I'me wondering are.

Where can you get baskets?

How do you take off a basket/put a new one on?

When you get a recone kit from a company does it come with everything you need? (ie glue, lineup tool for the coil, etc) Or is it dependent on the company?

What are some things I should be aware of when building a subwoofer?

1.What kind of clearance can this motor hold?

2. What kind of spyders/recone kit would work?

3. Coil materials (aluminum/copper) whats the difference?

I'm just trying to learn all I can for the task I've set for myself. Anything you guys can contribute will be greatly appreciated!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
you dont just buy parts like the coil and the spiders and the cones. you buy a complete soft part assembly that is put together - considering they know all the specific information about the driver in question. ie- spider mounting diamater, depth from top plate to bottom plate, coil diamater, top plate to surround mount on the basket, ect - then you get some thin cardboard (or a real shim) and align the driver through the dustcap location and slide it down and glue the spider and surround down.

its actually easy - but the problem is you dont have access to manufactuers, you dont have the glues, you dont have any parts.

you have working 15's. you want spl, but they are TC9 motors - and tc9's arent intended for pure SPL. they might work OK, but you are better off selling them and buying some atomic APX's, REMT's, inhumans, vfl's or something crazy like that.

it would be fun, but the recone kits to do EACH speaker would be $100+ easy. not to mention a $25 basket for each one.

its just not practical to destroy a perfecly good speaker.

but thats just my .02

 
you dont just buy parts like the coil and the spiders and the cones. you buy a complete soft part assembly that is put together - considering they know all the specific information about the driver in question. ie- spider mounting diamater, depth from top plate to bottom plate, coil diamater, top plate to surround mount on the basket, ect - then you get some thin cardboard (or a real shim) and align the driver through the dustcap location and slide it down and glue the spider and surround down.
its actually easy - but the problem is you dont have access to manufactuers, you dont have the glues, you dont have any parts.

you have working 15's. you want spl, but they are TC9 motors - and tc9's arent intended for pure SPL. they might work OK, but you are better off selling them and buying some atomic APX's, REMT's, inhumans, vfl's or something crazy like that.

it would be fun, but the recone kits to do EACH speaker would be $100+ easy. not to mention a $25 basket for each one.

its just not practical to destroy a perfecly good speaker.

but thats just my .02
Ok, first off, thanks for all that info! I know the cone/coil/surround and all are one assembly. I asked what spyders or coils to use, but I guess after reading all that that the company I buy the recone from would know what would work best with the motor. I didnt know the TC9s werent pure SPL, I just figured they would be a good base. I just want them loud, doesnt have be a 150db+ stereo,lol. I'm attached to these subs (long story) and I'd like to keep them and as they are right now I cant use them as 15's.

So whenever I buy recones I need to get a basket from that company also? If per'say I bought some baskets used on the forum (not likely I dont think, but ya never know) would some company's kits be more fitted for certain baskets rather than others?

So you really think just getting a whole new set of platforms to build would be better maybe?

 
you dont just buy parts like the coil and the spiders and the cones. you buy a complete soft part assembly that is put together - considering they know all the specific information about the driver in question. ie- spider mounting diamater, depth from top plate to bottom plate, coil diamater, top plate to surround mount on the basket, ect - then you get some thin cardboard (or a real shim) and align the driver through the dustcap location and slide it down and glue the spider and surround down.
its actually easy - but the problem is you dont have access to manufactuers, you dont have the glues, you dont have any parts.

you have working 15's. you want spl, but they are TC9 motors - and tc9's arent intended for pure SPL. they might work OK, but you are better off selling them and buying some atomic APX's, REMT's, inhumans, vfl's or something crazy like that.

it would be fun, but the recone kits to do EACH speaker would be $100+ easy. not to mention a $25 basket for each one.

its just not practical to destroy a perfecly good speaker.

but thats just my .02

I know this is a really old post but it has some useful info in it so here is my question

i know that the gap is specific to the driver and i know it is important to get the gaps right but where do u buy a shim?

how big do feeler gauges go?

and how large is the gap normally?

 
I know this is a really old post but it has some useful info in it so here is my question
i know that the gap is specific to the driver and i know it is important to get the gaps right but where do u buy a shim?

how big do feeler gauges go?

and how large is the gap normally?
You can use an arrangement of paper or thing plastic sheets for a gauge. (You simply layer them until you get a snug fit over top of the pole when you slide the coil down on it)

Feeler gauges generally go from ehh .001 to .075 i think?

Gap is 100% dependent on the sub design, can range from say 2mm to upwards of 12mm if not wider.

To the other question, it is VERY critical to get the coil centered and in the right place, otherwise you'll have mechanical noise and a failure due to the coil rubbing out.

 
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