Tweeter/Mid Buzz with bass

[s.abushaikha]

So in my Lexus (Non - ML) I have Alpine Type S 6.5” & 1” Tweeter Components in the rear doors, Type S 6x9” in the front doors, and Type S 4” Coaxial speakers in the dash corners, with the stock OE speaker in the center of the dash. Also 2 Type R 12” Subs in the trunk in a custom sealed enclosure on 2k Watts Stinger Amp with Epicenter.

The factory amp is stock, and the dash 4” speakers have a 100hz capacitor/bass blocker, the rear tweeters have whatever capacitor came in the alpine component set.

When a low deep consistent bass or quick loud punch of bass plays the tweeters make a static, or buzz sound. Like they are struggling to produce the frequency. Why even though I have capacitors on them this still occurs?

Also might switch the 4” dash to the 3” that came with the 6x9 component set and use whatever capacitor Alpine provided.

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[s.abushaikha]

And yes I know, I could get a DSP or a better amp, but I’m not trying to invest more money or time into this car. I’ve spent so many hours trying to make everything sound as good as I can with what I have.

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

What if you had the mid range 6 x 9s and twitter in the trunk? This will work with a bass blocker crossover. As of now, the 2 x 12” will not work. Because the lows will hit. It should hit the midrange and block off the lows from the radio. This set up will work better. No buzz sounds to it.

Match the amp with the speakers. At 2000 watts, this may not give any music. Or sound. Make the amp on a same watts level or lower. This will do it. As of now, you heard no music. If you added that amp, you heard no music. And if you want to buy the crossover, it’s a bass blocking crossover. Congratulations. This looks good if you can rearrange the speakers to the correct midrange frequencies. To make things work.​

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

switch the 4” dash to the 3” that came with the 6x9​

This is my completed project. Needs some led lights going around it. It runs on 2 car batteries and plays radio and cassettes. It plays static and few sounds. But big improvement. I’ll make it into a home system when I add more to it. That frame is from the car I took it from. 6 x 9s mid range.
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[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

Is it the tweeter or the 4" driver that buzzing? 100hz is a little low for a 4" driver, you might want to try a bass blocker at ~250-300hz.

 

[s.abushaikha]

What if you had the mid range 6 x 9s and twitter in the trunk? This will work with a bass blocker crossover. As of now, the 2 x 12” will not work. Because the lows will hit. It should hit the midrange and block off the lows from the radio. This set up will work better. No buzz sounds to it.

Match the amp with the speakers. At 2000 watts, this may not give any music. Or sound. Make the amp on a same watts level or lower. This will do it. As of now, you heard no music. If you added that amp, you heard no music. And if you want to buy the crossover, it’s a bass blocking crossover. Congratulations. This looks good if you can rearrange the speakers to the correct midrange frequencies. To make things work.​

I’m a little confused by what you’re trying to say? I don’t know maybe I wasn’t clear, my subwoofers are powered by a 2k amp, nothing related to my door/dash speakers though. The factory amp is powering those.

 

[s.abushaikha]

Is it the tweeter or the 4" driver that buzzing? 100hz is a little low for a 4" driver, you might want to try a bass blocker at ~250-300hz.

It possibly may be the tweeter, as the rear tweeters have the same sound. I am going to replace the 4” with the 3” later today just to hear if I notice a difference in sound. Otherwise depending on whether I chose the 4” or 3” I will be using the capacitor Alpine provided.

I still don’t get if I’m using the alpine capacitor that came in the component set for the rears, why does the tweeter sound like it’s buzzing with the bass?

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

It possibly may be the tweeter, as the rear tweeters have the same sound. I am going to replace the 4” with the 3” later today just to hear if I notice a difference in sound. Otherwise depending on whether I chose the 4” or 3” I will be using the capacitor Alpine provided.

I still don’t get if I’m using the alpine capacitor that came in the component set for the rears, why does the tweeter sound like it’s buzzing with the bass?

The tweeters are probably buzzing because they're getting bass frequencies, but it's hard to say without being there. I suspect it's probably the midranges that are buzzing. Have you turned up the bass tone control at the HU? Try turning that down.

 

[s.abushaikha]

The tweeters are probably buzzing because they're getting bass frequencies, but it's hard to say without being there. I suspect it's probably the midranges that are buzzing. Have you turned up the bass tone control at the HU? Try turning that down.

No my head unit EQ is flat, actually feel like I’m lacking midbass in the front.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

To fix the midbass up front, try reversing the polarity of the passenger side midbass driver.

 

[s.abushaikha]

To fix the midbass up front, try reversing the polarity of the passenger side midbass driver.

Why?

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

Why?

Because the midbass drivers may be out of phase. Actually before you change the phase on the midbass driver, try changing the phase of the subwoofers.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

So in my Lexus (Non - ML) I have Alpine Type S 6.5” & 1” Tweeter Components in the rear doors, Type S 6x9” in the front doors, and Type S 4” Coaxial speakers in the dash corners, with the stock OE speaker in the center of the dash. Also 2 Type R 12” Subs in the trunk in a custom sealed enclosure on 2k Watts Stinger Amp with Epicenter.

The factory amp is stock, and the dash 4” speakers have a 100hz capacitor/bass blocker, the rear tweeters have whatever capacitor came in the alpine component set.

When a low deep consistent bass or quick loud punch of bass plays the tweeters make a static, or buzz sound. Like they are struggling to produce the frequency. Why even though I have capacitors on them this still occurs?

Also might switch the 4” dash to the 3” that came with the 6x9 component set and use whatever capacitor Alpine provided.

100hz on a 4" coaxial? Ok I am reading 45w rms. 97hz-40khz.

Either the speaker is getting too much power and is bottoming out
or
The capacitor is on the wrong wire
or
The bass is hitting so hard that the 4" speaker is distorting/buzzing
or
There could be something loose on the cone

It doesn't say at what power level it will play down to 97hz. I would cross it over at 300hz+. You have a 6.5" that is playing all the way up to the tweeter.

To test things, disconnect the 4" speakers. Honestly the sound may improve.