Tutorial on deadening car

[nosaj070 10+ year member]

Well I searched, but could not find anything I was looking for. I think somone posted a tutorial kind of thing with pictures and all on exactly what you should do for deadening doors. I'm finally going to bite the bullet and drop the money and time to deaden my extremely road noise filled car. I have a basic idea of what I need to do, but not sure what panels to put it on, or if I will have trouble getting panels back on with the material applied. Yeah, well I guess if anyone has a tutorial, or wants to write one up, I'm sure more than just me would get use out of it.

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[Forty-Ouncer 10+ year member]

Im also looking to deaden my doors... If i come across something i find helpfull, ill post it here

 

[Warren G 10+ year member]

look on the second skin website, theres a few tutorials.

 

[jtomsic 5,000+ posts]

what all are you dampening..

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Here is a very good (but long) write up by Rick McCallum, owner of Raammat:

I just posted this in response to another thread but figured I may as well copy it here in case anyone wants some help on really doing there doors well. I have worked this out over the last few years on many installs with great success. The results are excellent for reducing road noise and improving the midbass output level and SQ. This method adds a resonable amount of weight considering how effective it is, between 5 to 10 lbs depending on the door size, how much bracing, baffel size, etc.

Once you deaden the outdoor skin, one layer with overlapping seems(over the entire outer skin) is enough for most doors, more may be required if you have a high powered midbass section. I recommend one or two additional layers of your favorite brand of mat right behind the speaker. Then add a layer of Ensulite foam, rough side showing, over the mat. The extra layers of mat and the layer of foam only need to be around a sq ft or a little less. This works very well, alot less expensive than the deflex pads that alos work very well.

Next I check the speaker mounting area, if not really stiff I mount a cross member of 1/8th wall aluminum channel or light gauge steel sq tubing, diagonally accross the inside of the door so I can have something to screw the the speaker baffel to. I just use self tapping screws to hold it in place, 5 or 6 of them along the length of the support, just drill through the factory inner panel and into it.

Once that is done I check the lock mechanisms, wiring etc, I use silicone sealer, tie wraps, foam tape, etc, to ensure nothing can rattle around.

I build my speaker baffels next, whatever it takes to get the right depth and be very very solid. Some prefer to make a seperate baffel that is isomounted to a base baffel, some just mount it all together, up to you here.

Then I seal the door cavitiy up with a layer of mat over the whole metal inner door panel. Before doing so I cut pieces of perforated aluminum sheet to fit the larger openings into the inside of the door, a couple of self taping screws are used to hold it in place. This gives the mat something to bond to instead of flapping in the breeze from the midbass, very effective.

I follow that up with a layer of ensulite over the whole panel you just covered with mat, rough side showing.

I mention Ensulite because it is a great accoustical absorber, very light weight, water proof, etc, just hard to find. If you cannot find Ensulite then 1/8" close cell foam is an acceptable substitute, just not quite as good, alot better than nothing, my truck had that in it before I knew about Ensulite and it is still in place now.

The final installment is where I tap on the door panel and put sections of mat on the back of it, just enough to stop any resonances, usually just need around 1/3 or less of the panel covered. Cut the foam and mat back around the door mount popers and intall the door panel. Some doors take a bit of massaging, trimming things on the panels, the mat, etc, to get it all to fit tight together.

During each step I test to make sure the windows and doors fully function and I tap on things to make sure nothing is missed that could result in having to tear back into the doors to fix a rattle or the windows, locks are not interferred with.

Once you have done all of this, install the speakers, sit back and enjoy

 

[davidfre21 5,000+ posts]

there was a really good tutorial on ANT's sounddomain page, he did a trunk lid and some door panels.... i would start my search with him //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

I posted it b4, it was a thread i made...i still have the PM from ANT w/ the steps...it's well over 1.5 years old...but i'll copy and paste the steps here again...

This the the only way I will install damping mat:

First thing is to removce all the pannels and carpet, then prep the mounting surface:

Tp prep the surface I will not use anything but paint thinner or acetone but denatured alcohal works awesome!!!

They will not leave any residue behind, and will remove all dirt, wax, oils and crap that can get in the way of the damper from sticking and working properly. most installs that fail, do so because the mounting surfcae was not cleaned properly.

Here is the way I do it:

Make sure you do this in a well ventelated are. Use a fan if you can.

1. Get some LINT FREE towels. I get mine from a janitorial supply shop.

2. Vaccume (shop-vac) the bare metal of the car, remopvin all debrit to get all the dirt and fluff out.

3. soak the LINT FREE towel in paint thinner. and rub the hell out of the mounting surface with moderate pressure.get everywhere, even if you dont think you will apply mat there.

4. let dry for 20 minutes & go over it with a dry LINT FREE towel again.

5. use an air compressor to blow over the entire surface.

6. repeate steps 3, 4, & 5 using a different, clean LINT FREE towel each time.

7. repeat again!

Step 2:

NOTE: If you plan on adding multiple layers, It is very important to clean the aluminum side of the 1st layer of Second Skin. the back of the first layer is a mountring surface and needs to be preped as well! IF you dont, you will runn in to problems.

Using a razor knife cut the Second Skin sheet to the appropriate shape and size. The bigger the pieces the better.

use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the Second Skin up.

Remove the paper liner from the Second Skin and apply the adhesive side to the prepared surface. On large surfaces, remove the release liner in sections, working your way down and across the panel. Be sure not to lay material over an entire section all at once. Doing this will prevent the material from entering all the hard to reach areas. Remember, the more contact this material has with the surface area, the better it will stick, and the better it will work!

Apply the Second Skin to the mounting surface with a roller one small area at a time. Use the roller to work the Second Skin into all contours of the surface area. Using a razor knife, cut holes and lines in any air pockets that may have formed between the panel and the Second Skin Sound Damplifier. Work the air out with the roller. You may also find that the blunt end of a screwdriver will help you reach the difficult areas.apply as much pressure as you can with the roller. several times as the material cools to room temperature.

NG

 

[nosaj070 10+ year member]

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate it.

 

[ifandorbuts 10+ year member]

wow

all that stuff I said was mostly for the asphalt based dampers which are a lot more sensitive. most higher end butyl dampersdont need nearly as much prep work. just make sure there is no dust or oil on the metal.

there is a tutorial sticky over at http://www.caraudioforum.com lots of good info.

ANT

 

[`pr0digy 10+ year member]

wowall that stuff I said was mostly for the asphalt based dampers which are a lot more sensitive. most higher end butyl dampersdont need nearly as much prep work. just make sure there is no dust or oil on the metal.

there is a tutorial sticky over at http://www.caraudioforum.com lots of good info.

ANT

Anyone else keep getting "server too busy" at CAF ?

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Anyone else keep getting "server too busy" at CAF ?

That's all I ever get.......in the past 6 months I've been able to get on once //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Oh well.........