Trying to decide which subwoofer to get

[bullshit8421]

I had recently purchased an Alpine Type R 12d4 and the MRX-M110 but the type r blew within a month and the amp was only at half power and 2 ohms. So now I'm looking for a new 12in subwoofer some i have looked at are alpine(maybe giving them another try), Orion HCCA, RE audio, sundown audio, and american bass. Im hoping to keep it under $350 or $400. Anyone have some experience with these or another suggestion on a good 12in sub.

I will still be using the alpine MRX-M100 and cannot go below 2 ohms with it because it was already dimming my lights a lot at half power.

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[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

If your running the amp. At 2 ohms. Then your pushing 1000 rms to the sub. If the type r is an older version. It can take 1000 rms but not for to long. I'd say you prolly clipped the sub to death So before you buy another sub. You might wanna reset the gains properly With that being said. I do have a sub for you in your price range it's a dd 9512 but out of the 3 you stated. The American bass. If it's the hd or xfl would be the better choice

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

1k before rise wouldn't do that 9512 justice, imo.

I'd say 3k amp wired to 1 ohm or at least 2k @.5 for a 9500.

For the Alpine amp, a cheaper sub meant for low power would be a better option. Orion and RE aren't what they used to be. AB can be iffy depending on what you get, but mylows10 can surely help you out if you do go AB

Otherwise, Sundown or SSA lower lines might be worth looking into. Could do a Sundown SA. Yardsale, they're a great deal if you get a good one

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

1k before rise wouldn't do that 9512 justice, imo.
I'd say 3k amp wired to 1 ohm or at least 2k @.5 for a 9500.

For the Alpine amp, a cheaper sub meant for low power would be a better option. Orion and RE aren't what they used to be. AB can be iffy depending on what you get, but mylows10 can surely help you out if you do go AB

Otherwise, Sundown or SSA lower lines might be worth looking into. Could do a Sundown SA. Yardsale, they're a great deal if you get a good one

You should become a DD dealer and warranty 9512s for 3000W.

Have you ever seen the coil that fits older 95XX motor?

 

---------- Post added at 10:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:12 PM ----------

 

If your running the amp. At 2 ohms. Then your pushing 1000 rms to the sub. If the type r is an older version. It can take 1000 rms but not for to long. I'd say you prolly clipped the sub to death So before you buy another sub. You might wanna reset the gains properly With that being said. I do have a sub for you in your price range it's a dd 9512 but out of the 3 you stated. The American bass. If it's the hd or xfl would be the better choice

This is true, and if the DD 9512 is

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

You should become a DD dealer and warranty 9512s for 3000W.
Have you ever seen the coil that fits older 95XX motor?

I've seen g and up coils. The one Jim has is a g, iirc. I've owned three 95g's.

A 3k amp wired to one ohm with a clean signal is perfectly fine. I would warranty that. It's not going to see 3k

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I've seen g and up coils. The one Jim has is a g, iirc. I've owned three 95g's.
A 3k amp wired to one ohm with a clean signal is perfectly fine. I would warranty that. It's not going to see 3k

Funny, DD only suggests 1000-2000W on the new ones. I can promise you that real continuous thermal power handling of 3" 4 layer coil is going to be no more than 1200W. But if you're willing to step up to the plate, if OP blows that sub trying to run 3K to it I'm sure you'll make good on buying him a recone kit.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Funny, DD only suggests 1000-2000W on the new ones. I can promise you that real continuous thermal power handling of 3" 4 layer coil is going to be no more than 1200W. But if you're willing to step up to the plate, if OP blows that sub trying to run 3K to it I'm sure you'll make good on buying him a recone kit.

You who always used to talk about rise. If it's wired to one ohm and the amp sees 3+ ohms, is it seeing 3k?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

I agree that 3 inch coils are limited, but I'm leaning more towards 2kw depending on the way the sub is built.

If you're giving a sub 2k clamped or more then you need a 4 inch coil..which is why im upgrading to a 4 inch coil..

 

[Massive spl]

U guys are dumb. We clamping over 3k daily to each 3" sundown coil. Yes clamping. I'm sure that DD95 can take a 3k amp wired at .5ohm all day clean signal. Prly see 1500-2k like they rated for. Hispl should be called LOWSPL.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I agree that 3 inch coils are limited, but I'm leaning more towards 2kw depending on the way the sub is built.
If you're giving a sub 2k clamped or more then you need a 4 inch coil..which is why im upgrading to a 4 inch coil..

Umm, no....

I'd send a lot more to a 3" coil sub before switching to 4" coil.

Look at Nate's clamp below.........

U guys are dumb. We clamping over 3k daily to each 3" sundown coil. Yes clamping. I'm sure that DD95 can take a 3k amp wired at .5ohm all day clean signal. Prly see 1500-2k like they rated for. Hispl should be called LOWSPL.

Apparently, you're going to have to warranty their sub after saying that.....

He finds every chance possible to argue with me, even if he said the same thing a while ago

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

3kw maybe due to increased thermal capability but I still think 3 inch coils arent magical so 2kw is pushing it

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

If you think that's pushing it, check out Sundown't test with the SA-18.

Two NS-1's on a 2.5 inch coil.

According to Hispls, they're giving it 13k //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[Massive spl]

Yep I had 4 Sa 18s on a crossfire 8k which does like 10-11k at 1ohm. So I sent them 2.5k each, according to hispl. And when I took them out and sold them the coils were mint!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

You who always used to talk about rise. If it's wired to one ohm and the amp sees 3+ ohms, is it seeing 3k?

If you haven't done an impedance sweep on the sub in question in the box installed in the vehicle you have no idea what impedance the amp sees at any frequency. Furthermore you have no idea what OP is going to do with this sub.

I agree that 3 inch coils are limited, but I'm leaning more towards 2kw depending on the way the sub is built.
If you're giving a sub 2k clamped or more then you need a 4 inch coil..which is why im upgrading to a 4 inch coil..

3" 8 layer should also be acceptable.

U guys are dumb. We clamping over 3k daily to each 3" sundown coil. Yes clamping. I'm sure that DD95 can take a 3k amp wired at .5ohm all day clean signal. Prly see 1500-2k like they rated for. Hispl should be called LOWSPL.

Care to explain the difference between "clean" power and the other sort that allows a rather thin 3" 4 layer coil to manage potentially 3000W worth of heat?

If you think that's pushing it, check out Sundown't test with the SA-18.
Two NS-1's on a 2.5 inch coil.

According to Hispls, they're giving it 13k //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

They may well be giving it close to 13KW. Without having done an impedance graph or clamp you have no idea nor do I. Is this 13KW worth of amp test a 3 second tone or is it him playing Young Jeezy slowed and bass boosted?

You kids seem to think that there's some magical "box rise" that adds 1 or 2 ohms or some other arbitrary number to the nominal impedance of a sub. This is not how a loudspeaker works and the term impedance implies AC signal where the value in ohms is a function of many factors in the "circuit", cannot be measured or calculated without frequency, and will be different at every frequency.

^^^ model of a loudspeaker in a vented box.

But you guys just KNOW what impedance a sub you've never tested will show at any given frequency in a box that you've never tested in a car you don't own.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

If you haven't done an impedance sweep on the sub in question in the box installed in the vehicle you have no idea what impedance the amp sees at any frequency. Furthermore you have no idea what OP is going to do with this sub.


3" 8 layer should also be acceptable.

Care to explain the difference between "clean" power and the other sort that allows a rather thin 3" 4 layer coil to manage potentially 3000W worth of heat?

They may well be giving it close to 13KW. Without having done an impedance graph or clamp you have no idea nor do I. Is this 13KW worth of amp test a 3 second tone or is it him playing Young Jeezy slowed and bass boosted?

You kids seem to think that there's some magical "box rise" that adds 1 or 2 ohms or some other arbitrary number to the nominal impedance of a sub. This is not how a loudspeaker works and the term impedance implies AC signal where the value in ohms is a function of many factors in the "circuit", cannot be measured or calculated without frequency, and will be different at every frequency.

^^^ model of a loudspeaker in a vented box.

But you guys just KNOW what impedance a sub you've never tested will show at any given frequency in a box that you've never tested in a car you don't own.

So my 20k could have been sending 20k to my subs because I never mapped the impedance?

Clean power is an unclipped sine wave

Yes impedance varies with frequency