Trunk battery vs. HO alternator

Probably so for 2kw... but I bet you never see a voltage drop, ever. If that's the goal, then Rock On! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/peace.gif.2db28b618ed8d1964ebbe2f5021d2c39.gif

I'll be looking into more batteries soon, and may end up on the road to electrical enlightenment. Then again, I burp for sheez and giggles.

What kind of drop do you see at full tilt?

 
Sir, I respectfully disagree with you. You have not proven anything. You merely made a claim that goes against sound logic. Please provide some sort of evidence other than your claim.
Do you want a video of my voltmeter at full tilt? Whats not to believe? Do you not believe the before, or after numbers?

I'm sure there are many people on here with stock alts that don't drop below 13v....

 
i figured eventually im going to get both, so i saved up for both and now i got my HO alt sitting in my closet untill i got to my install.
ya lucky turd won that raffle //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
ya lucky turd won that raffle //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
lol ya that deff speed up the process...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
i'm startin to think.. if i buy a yellow top, and do a big three, my car still won't be able to hold up 2k or wattage :\
2k is not looking good for you. But eCrack is right, if you have to work with what you have then you need to spend more time on your systems efficiency. Think Alpine, not Audiopipe (I've heard those PDX amps are very efficient). Your sub enclosure can play a big part of an efficient setup also....

 
2k is not looking good for you. But eCrack is right, if you have to work with what you have then you need to spend more time on your systems efficiency. Think Alpine, not Audiopipe (I've heard those PDX amps are very efficient). Your sub enclosure can play a big part of an efficient setup also....
How exactly would my sub enclosure play a big part?

it's going to be 3.5 cubes tuned to 34.

this help?

 
How exactly would my sub enclosure play a big part? it's going to be 3.5 cubes tuned to 34.

this help?
I am not that experienced in enclosure building, I just pick up bits of info here and there, but you may want to ask that question in the enclosure forum.

I believe (again I am no expert in this area) that it has something to do about matching the resonant freq of your sub/enclosure/vehicle to make the most efficient use of power??

 
I'm looking for an explanation of the advantages of a large trunk battery vs. a HO alternator.
Iv'e done alot of research, and from what I understand- A battery is just a large reserve that may help with quick voltage drops that an alternator cannot respond quickly enough to.

So, on long, extended bass notes, would a large trunk battery help at all with voltage drops? Or on these types of notes is the power coming straight from the alternator?

I dont' really have a dimming problem, but I do have large voltage drops on the long, extended bass lines (11.0 with headlights/AC on). Iv'e currently got a small trunk battery (20ah) and an 80 amp alt/big 3.

KNOW the best thing to do would be the alternator, but frankly there's no way in hell I can afford one- they're extremely pricey for my car (4cylinder accord).

Would a battery help at all for my specific situation? I can get an hc1800 for very cheap, so i'm thinking of picking one up. And as a side question, would I be better off using it as a trunk battery on top of my crappy interstate starting battery, or replacing my starting battery completely and using the hc1800 underhood?

Thanks!
Replace the battery under the hood first, and have the trunk battery load tested to see if it is still good.

Your old battery up front is likely casuing your voltage issues.

 
Do you want a video of my voltmeter at full tilt? Whats not to believe? Do you not believe the before, or after numbers?
I'm sure there are many people on here with stock alts that don't drop below 13v....
yes that's exactly what I want. I mean you did say it was easy to "disprove" yet you made no attempt. You just made a claim. I want to see a sustained voltage of ~14v. Only that would contradict my statement. So what you need to do, is play your system full tilt balls to the wall and prove that it is with a voltage and current draw measurement. This way it is proven that you are exceeding your alternator's output ability. Then your voltage needs to stay up around 14 volts. Then and only then will you have proven your "easy to disprove" bs. We both know you can't do this because what you claim is impossible. You have effectively proven yourself wrong and made yourself out to be a liar if you cannot produce this.

 
yes that's exactly what I want. I mean you did say it was easy to "disprove" yet you made no attempt. You just made a claim. I want to see a sustained voltage of ~14v. Only that would contradict my statement. So what you need to do, is play your system full tilt balls to the wall and prove that it is with a voltage and current draw measurement. This way it is proven that you are exceeding your alternator's output ability. Then your voltage needs to stay up around 14 volts. Then and only then will you have proven your "easy to disprove" bs. We both know you can't do this because what you claim is impossible. You have effectively proven yourself wrong and made yourself out to be a liar if you cannot produce this.
I said mid to low 13s, not 14s.

I'm not going to bother with a video, even if I did it exactly as I said you will still find some way to back out of admitting you are wrong.

My truck has a stock alt and voltage does not drop below 13v at full tilt. This is not that hard to believe there are many people on here that can do this.

If I was the only person around then it would be a different story. Just because you have problems with voltage drops, doesn't mean thats how it is for everyone else.

 
I said mid to low 13s, not 14s.
I'm not going to bother with a video, even if I did it exactly as I said you will still find some way to back out of admitting you are wrong.

My truck has a stock alt and voltage does not drop below 13v at full tilt. This is not that hard to believe there are many people on here that can do this.

If I was the only person around then it would be a different story. Just because you have problems with voltage drops, doesn't mean thats how it is for everyone else.
Don't act like you know me. I am not wrong. I know I'm not and I know you can't prove it. You stated you could easily disprove me. Now you're saying you won't. You lose. If you were to somehow to magically disprove me, I would admit it as I'm not a cowardice liar who claims something and then can't/won't back it up.

 
ok here is the dope a 12 volt car batt has a resting voltage of just over 12 volts when fully charged but while being chaged by an alt there is a chemical reaction going on in each cell witch should result in a total of 14.4 volt dc. minus whatever draw you have from the car. so some people have big enough amps and subs to draw more than there car can produce lets say you have a 100 amp alt and your total draw is 100 amps with your music cranked you will see the voltage drop and keep droping no mater how many batteries you have no mater how much chemical reaction you have period. this is because your alt can not keep up. what you want to see at the amp is a constant 14.4 volt dc anything less means your lossing power with the possability of cliping as an end result along with over heating of the amp. this is just basic electrical knowlage that anybody doing high end car audio needs to know. now if you were talking top of the line compitition car audio we would maybe be talking 16.6 volt dc four five or even eight alts ten batteries and 20 plus farads of caps. for street use you want 14.4 constant thats for sure your alt has to make enough amps to do it, batteries wont.

 
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