Time for new mids

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

right on. this thread is giving me some great fodder for thought about how this midbass from the door speakers is actually achieved. good stuff

Higher xmas driver that can still play top end.

Seal and deaden as much as you can. Watch the slope used so you don't have phase issues. Power

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Loading the cones is usually a bad thing unless you are trying to stablize the impedance.I'm talking strictly about acquiring the proper qtc. This will not on control mechanical but inductive distortion while increasing powerhaniling and sounding more natural.

And how many cars have you tuned? What was your last score?

Brother it's fine. I'll stick with the conventional install and tuning. KISS works.

 

[youdoofus]

Higher xmas driver that can still play top end. Seal and deaden as much as you can. Watch the slope used so you don't have phase issues. Power

i really like the active idea. Im probably gonna look to see if i can find anyone with an A/D/S/ PQ 20.2 theyre looking to offload reasonably. Love that amp, mine is broken and probably cost more to fix than find a good one on the used market

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

A door with the large gaps sealed is ideal. You start shrinking the space and you lose the low end.

I agree with this, especially if you're not looking to mod extensively. IB sounds great, goes low and doesn't require much amplifier power. Both drivers I linked you to sound great in IB installs, otherwise I wouldn't have suggested them. The thing to remember about IB is that you're focusing on the Q. Q can be adjusted. For IB you want a mid/high Q, something like .577 to .8. But you can achieve this with a low Q driver with properly applied filters and/or EQ.
I'm running the 8ohm Anarchy mids IB in a very well sealed/treated door and it sounds phenomenal. I did it for the same reasons, didn't want to get into the mods for the time being. They play flat to 40Hz with enough authority to keep up with a 10" LMS on 1400w. The only real problem I have at the moment is that they tend to set even a heavily treated door into motion and it has resulted in some trim rattling and what not. They will definitely be receiving the proper enclosure approach when the real install takes place.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

i really like the active idea. Im probably gonna look to see if i can find anyone with an A/D/S/ PQ 20.2 theyre looking to offload reasonably. Love that amp, mine is broken and probably cost more to fix than find a good one on the used market

There are a ton of new, powerful as heck, reliable, efficient amps out there.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I agree with this, especially if you're not looking to mod extensively. IB sounds great, goes low and doesn't require much amplifier power. Both drivers I linked you to sound great in IB installs, otherwise I wouldn't have suggested them. The thing to remember about IB is that you're focusing on the Q. Q can be adjusted. For IB you want a mid/high Q, something like .577 to .8. But you can achieve this with a low Q driver with properly applied filters and/or EQ.
I'm running the 8ohm Anarchy mids IB in a very well sealed/treated door and it sounds phenomenal. I did it for the same reasons, didn't want to get into the mods for the time being. They play flat to 40Hz with enough authority to keep up with a 10" LMS on 1400w. The only real problem I have at the moment is that they tend to set even a heavily treated door into motion and it has resulted in some trim rattling and what not. They will definitely be receiving the proper enclosure approach when the real install takes place.

TBH I'm more worried about how the car is measuring then what the driver itself is doing.

Pick a known solid mid and let the tune do the rest.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

TBH I'm more worried about how the car is measuring then what the driver itself is doing. Pick a known solid mid and let the tune do the rest.

Okay, but why even worry about what driver it ends up being then? Pick a stiff 4ohm driver and get to work.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Okay, but why even worry about what driver it ends up being then? Pick a stiff 4ohm driver and get to work.

Yeah that's pretty much what I'm doing. Just have to decide which one. Those Mille legends already sold in 3 hours.

 

[youdoofus]

There are a ton of new, powerful as heck, reliable, efficient amps out there.

yeah, but if memory serves me, i thought i saw someone on the facebook old school car audio page that had a few of em for like $80 or so. That would be tough to beat for a PQ 20.2

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

yeah, but if memory serves me, i thought i saw someone on the facebook old school car audio page that had a few of em for like $80 or so. That would be tough to beat for a PQ 20.2

It's only 80 watts a channel. Give them more power. More dynamics, more headroom. I haven't had less then 150 per mid in a long time and I will never use less. I might even go with a 2ohm mid to get 240 a channel. Anything past that and it's kind of pointless. Some have 500 or more per mid. It's cool to say I have 500 per mid but nobody is using 500 per mid.

 

[youdoofus]

It's only 80 watts a channel. Give them more power. More dynamics, more headroom. I haven't had less then 150 per mid in a long time and I will never use less. I might even go with a 2ohm mid to get 240 a channel. Anything past that and it's kind of pointless. Some have 500 or more per mid. It's cool to say I have 500 per mid but nobody is using 500 per mid.

whats a good cost effective choice then? that ppi 900 everyone is talking about as of late?

 

[youdoofus]

It's only 80 watts a channel. Give them more power. More dynamics, more headroom. I haven't had less then 150 per mid in a long time and I will never use less. I might even go with a 2ohm mid to get 240 a channel. Anything past that and it's kind of pointless. Some have 500 or more per mid. It's cool to say I have 500 per mid but nobody is using 500 per mid.

whats a good cost effective choice then? that ppi 900 everyone is talking about as of late?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

That works. I'd do the NVX version. Way better customer service.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Okay, but why even worry about what driver it ends up being then? Pick a stiff 4ohm driver and get to work.

You perfer ib over sealed qtc of .707?

Nearly ever ib drop in ive done had excellent extension but lacked output as compared to a well sealed and ideal qtc alignment.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

And how many cars have you tuned? What was your last score? Brother it's fine. I'll stick with the conventional install and tuning. KISS works.

Im talking from a proformance stand point.

You are apparantly having an issue and I think having the correct 2nd order over 1st order will drastically help you.