time for final troubleshooting. (sunfire 2001 coupe)

[opfreak 10+ year member]

Got the hornet 564t 90% installed. Just need to hide the wires into the harnesses, Hide the horn. Install hood switch. And maybe find the trunk light so I can add that trigger.

Current problems:

I thought I found the tach wire in main engine harness. Purple white, when I tested it with a dmm, it seemed to give a signal that changed. it moved with gas. but also just kept changing at ideal, going from .15v to about .7 and then cycling between those 2.

But when I do the tach learn (turn car on, push and hold the valet button). nothing happens, the led never turns on. So maybe my wire is wrong.

Other problem:

the remote allways shows the " (( A " symbol. (alarm full triggered symbol).

Its on no matter what I do. Unlock car/lock car, Unlock car and start car. The symbol is just always on. Any ideas why?

I read the troubleshooting instruction, and they say that if you lock the car and get 2 beeps a zone has been bypassed. I do not get two beeps, and the led just flashes at a steady pass.

Still want to know how to hook up the dome light. But not sure where to connect it.

I heard people say to use a mercury switch vs. the one that came with the alarm for the hood. I looked in radio shack, under the switches, but did not see anything that said 'mercury switch'. which one should I use. how do I find the mercury switch if its better?

Thanks for all the help guys. While I'm glad I did it myself (with yourhelp). The people that do this for a living, get my probs. Its a ton of work.

Click to read more...

 

[starkfu 10+ year member]

the tach should be making AT LEAST a 3 volt jump as the RPM's go up.

I am unsure what to do about your remote issue, perhaps try reprogramming it to the unit.

the domelight - use a relay, use the domelight output of the alarm to trigger 85 - send 86 to +12v, then send pin 30 to the door pin circuit AFTER the diodes from the door trigger, then send 87a to ground (provided the door circuit is negative trigger, which I am pretty sure it is).

I don't use mercury switches, prefer the plungers that are sealed.

 

[opfreak 10+ year member]

the tach should be making AT LEAST a 3 volt jump as the RPM's go up.
I am unsure what to do about your remote issue, perhaps try reprogramming it to the unit.

the domelight - use a relay, use the domelight output of the alarm to trigger 85 - send 86 to +12v, then send pin 30 to the door pin circuit AFTER the diodes from the door trigger, then send 87a to ground (provided the door circuit is negative trigger, which I am pretty sure it is).

I don't use mercury switches, prefer the plungers that are sealed.

thanks, would I just output to one of the door triggers form the relay?

i'll just dig out an igniation wire then for the rpm.

 

[starkfu 10+ year member]

correct on the door trigger.

For the tach, you need to test the wires at the distributor - one of them will send the varying signal, if you have a distributorless system (coil packs) - then of the two wires going to each coil pack, one is the same color on every one, you want the wire that isn't the same color on every pack.

 

[DcMaN 10+ year member]

PONTIAC, SUNFIRE, 2001, Tachometer

The engine harness is found next to the battery, below the radiator hose, just above the transaxle.

Tachometer purple/white engine harness

or do what starkfu said, you can also get it at the fuel injectors. It's the color wire that changes at every injector.

or set it to voltage sense.... Im not a big fan of voltage sense, but thats what alot of people who dont know what there doing do.

 

[opfreak 10+ year member]

I found a wire. white coming from the injectors. still varied the voltage much less. but it was a direct relationship, unlike my purple/white wire that the voltage vaired all the time. This one went very linear with me opening the throttle. still only about .14 volts at idle, but I found a similar result at the12volt. I tapped it, got in the car and started it. pushed and held the valet button and it learned the signal almost instantly.

So I got remote start working, hood pin in (took out a fender bolt and replaced it with the hood pin switch.

Door triggers work. stepping on brake after remote start kills enige. need to adjust the shock sensor a bit, but that works.

----

Biggest question I have now... with winter coming. how do I hook up the defrost output from alarm? the sunfire has a momentary switch I push to start the redefogger.

---

Still need to do:

Hide horn better.

Get a relay for the dome light.

Maybe find the trunk light, so I can trigger that.

only problem I have is the remote always showing the alarm tigger icon. but thats easy to ignore.

----------

Just closing thougths

-----------

I dont know If i'd do this myself again. I figure it took me about, hmm 9 hours to install. (took my time, and alot of it.)

I think the quality of my install is better then someone that just does the job to get it done. But worse then someone that did it for a while and cared.

Then again, if i was doing it in my car again, I think I could cut the time down to at most 4 hours next time. Just knowing where the wires go, and what to look for when testing for the wires would help a ton. and everything would be hidden even better.

That being said, next alarm i'm getting will be a decent system from the factory. My cost for the alarm and module was abotu 150 total, which for a 2 way is awesome. it would have cost over 400 dollars at c.c. so a savings of $250 still puts me ahead. + I learned A TON.

 

[starkfu 10+ year member]

so your rear defrost is a momentary trigger circuit? perfect!

i would still use a relay, JUST TO BE SAFE.

So you choose the output that was discussed earlier that you have to hold the button down for two seconds to enable output - then make sure it is set to momentary or 1 second in the programming. Send that wire from the alarm to 85 of a relay - 86 to plus 12V - 30 to the momentary pulse wire from the defrost switch(cut the wire in half and diode isolate the switch side from your relay's output) - then fuse 87a to whatever polarity the momentary signal was.

When all is said and done, when you remote start the vehicle, you press and hold the button for two seconds to send the momentary activation signal.

 

[thejoker989 10+ year member]

I found a wire. white coming from the injectors. still varied the voltage much less. but it was a direct relationship, unlike my purple/white wire that the voltage vaired all the time. This one went very linear with me opening the throttle. still only about .14 volts at idle, but I found a similar result at the12volt. I tapped it, got in the car and started it. pushed and held the valet button and it learned the signal almost instantly.
So I got remote start working, hood pin in (took out a fender bolt and replaced it with the hood pin switch.

Door triggers work. stepping on brake after remote start kills enige. need to adjust the shock sensor a bit, but that works.

----

Biggest question I have now... with winter coming. how do I hook up the defrost output from alarm? the sunfire has a momentary switch I push to start the redefogger.

---

Still need to do:

Hide horn better.

Get a relay for the dome light.

Maybe find the trunk light, so I can trigger that.

only problem I have is the remote always showing the alarm tigger icon. but thats easy to ignore.

----------

Just closing thougths

-----------

I dont know If i'd do this myself again. I figure it took me about, hmm 9 hours to install. (took my time, and alot of it.)

I think the quality of my install is better then someone that just does the job to get it done. But worse then someone that did it for a while and cared.

Then again, if i was doing it in my car again, I think I could cut the time down to at most 4 hours next time. Just knowing where the wires go, and what to look for when testing for the wires would help a ton. and everything would be hidden even better.

That being said, next alarm i'm getting will be a decent system from the factory. My cost for the alarm and module was abotu 150 total, which for a 2 way is awesome. it would have cost over 400 dollars at c.c. so a savings of $250 still puts me ahead. + I learned A TON.

Make sure your meter is on ac voltage