Threaded rod cut-out jig for roter :just tried it out:

678-01_pd.jpg


here it is it cuts perfect holes but ya have to go my centimeters

broke the bit within 5" of cutting. Worthless for 3/4" IMO

 
Ive got the dremel for cutting my circles, but I use a jigsaw now cause the bits kept breaking and it took forever. So now I used string and a pencil and then cut it out with a jigsaw.

 
678-01_pd.jpg


here it is it cuts perfect holes but ya have to go my centimeters
what bit do you use?

(link //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif)

i did my last cutout with a jigsaw, but it didn't come out that great. i don't know if i'm ready to spring for a router yet. i think a circular saw/table saw will come first.

also, are there any non-pneumatic brad nailers that will do 1 1/2" brads? (reasonably priced).

 
my air gun claims to do 2" brads but only puts them in about 1.5" with full air. also claims to do 2" staples but never get more than 1" in.

 
DO NOT use the electric brad nailers i tried everyone sears had and none would put the nails in deep enough... lowes has a combo kit of a nailer grinder and aircompressor for like 200 that i would think any car audio nerd would want

 
well a battery powered one was going to be my only option, but it looks like that won't work out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

anyone actually use a hammer and nails?

i assume i'd have to use thin nails to avoid splitting, and it'd be a pain, but it is really cheap!

 
The thing is, when they say they will countersink the staples/nails, they are really refering to good ole plywood.

MDF is alot more dense than those woods so it takes more power.

 
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