I cut my harness wires and I shouldn't have

[Expertnewb]

I have a 2005 Buick cxs.

I'm installing a double din touch screen from Amazon.

I ordered a wiring harness then some wires fell out so I decided to splice my harness in instead.

That was a mistake because there are several duplicate wires that do different things.

For example 2 identical skinny blue wires.

I tried my best to wire it up but it just powers on with no sound.

I don't think I'm getting power to factory amp.

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[HardofWhoring]

It's not the end of the world. Just not sure what you did. You can put it back to how it was factory, but you still need to figure out which wire is which and match em up.
You're going to have
power/12v
ground
accessory/switched wire
(possibly) illumintation (which dims the head unit with your dash lights)
remote wire which is usually blue with a white stripe, and that's your switched/power button for amps.
Might have a navigation wire which says to hook to parking brake, (which you don't need to)
Maybe an antennae wire
and I think just speaker wires.

You figure out your factory ones, and your head unit ones, match em up, plug em in. The harness just makes it so you can line em all up and leave your factory and head unit alone.

Pics might help. There aren't going to be duplicate wires. Not sure what that means, but a factory harness is only going to have one of each, and so will your head unit.

If you have a factory amp you are working with you might need an adapter/module to connect between your head unit and the amp. Might be best to see if you can find a forum for your vehicle. crutchfield might have the answer.

The better question is: now that you have an aftermarket head unit. Are you going to do the smart thing, and rip out the rest of your factory system, and upgrade the speakers? Hopefully with an amp? What power does your head unit have? (If its an amazon special, probably not enough).

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

You can always go to a wrecking yard that has this vehicle and take pics of the existing wiring harness and wiring and go from there even? You may even be able to pull the existing and plug and play the original back in yours and get an aftermarket HU harnes and start fresh that way even. You can take pics though and look to get it back to where it was.

 

[Expertnewb]

Th

 

[Expertnewb]

This shows the wiring how I do have double wires coming from the harness. Double Dark Blue, Double Purple, Double Black and Double Orange. I figured out the orange wires already but the rest are a mystery. Even if I go to a junk yard the wires will be a mystery because they are identical.

 

[Expertnewb]

The only solution without going to the dealership is to run all the wires new. I have low level wiring too, I don't know what that means.

 

[Firewalker]

they make oem wiring harnesses that you can buy aftermarket from amazon and ebay. I would look them up on one of those two places so you can rewire in a new oem harness to your head unit.

 

[Firewalker]

If they look like this below from the amazon link then you can rewire and be okay then.

Amazon product ASIN B0002BEVMK
Metra 71-2003-1

 

[Deiimos]

Always a bad idea to cut stock harness unless you take full note of the wiring, for future readers. Any duplicate colors, mark them with a piece of masking tape and write in sharpie matching number on both sides of the cut in case you need to hook them back up.

With a bit of voltage measuring, and tracing which direction the wires go, you can possibly make educated guesses on where the wires connect.

Example. Measure the voltage on the two skinny blue wires, referenced to ground and see what you get. One is labeled as low level right rear preamp signal, so will have no DC voltage or a low amount and this wire goes back to the amplifier (should also have preamp audio on it). The other blue wire says Control Signal and goes to the steering wheel controls if I’m looking at the full diagram correctly.

Do the same for the tan wires. One is another preamp low level wire for the subwoofer, the other is a control wire. They both go to the amp, but if you can figure out which is the LF LOW LEVEL SIG wire, and what pin it is on the amp harness, you then know where this wire goes, so this maps them both out.

The purple wires, one says Supply voltage and looks to feed the steering wheel controls with DC voltage. The other says turn on, perhaps like a remote wire and should have DC when the stereo is turned on. The turn on wire of course would go back towards the amp, and the other towards the steering wheel. (some continuity tests will tell which goes where if it isn't obvious which runs to where).

Orange wires, one is 12v+ for the stereo, so it goes the pin labeled B1 at the connector and will have 12v on it. The other orange is a data wire.

This still is not easy to do, but this is how I would start, slowly measure / test, an oscilloscope helps map out the audio wires, but playing sinewaves and measure low AC voltage can work with a multimeter.

Might end up having to take this to the dealer, or maybe even an audio shop that wants to take a stab at it. This could be very challenging, and risk of damageing something if any of the wires are wrong.

Good luck with it.

 

[huberoy123 10+ year member]

I have a 2005 Buick cxs.

I'm installing a double din touch screen from Amazon.

I ordered a wiring harness then some wires fell out so I decided to splice my harness in instead.

That was a mistake because there are several duplicate wires that do different things.

For example 2 identical skinny blue wires.

I tried my best to wire it up but it just powers on with no sound.

I don't think I'm getting power to factory amp.

If I was in your situation, I would experiment with the wring for a day or two. If that didn't work, I would purchase an external amplifier. Run the turn on wire and appropriate RCA signal cables from your new headunit to the new amplifier. Run speaker wires from the amplifier.
Good luck.