The do's and dont''s of my first wall....it seems like something isn't right....

I completely agree hertz mafia and lbetts....I don't mind paying the money for a proper design. I just didn't think a wall could be designed because of the contours of each car is different. Lmao lbetts, So another update, as of last night I tore the whole thing out. I was very very unhappy with the way it looked and the way it sounded. So I said fuuck it I'm going to start over again. Is cscstang still doing designs at the moment? I thought I read on someone else's thread that he wasn't doing designs at the moment? If he isn't who is someone else I can talk to about doing a design for me? I've only known of cscstang. I was thinking I should be doing about 155. And no lbetts I didn't irritate them at all. I've only talked to the shop twice about getting metered. And fuuck no i definitely want to get it metered lol. Well after I rebuild it again now. I've always wanted to get metered.
What i told you months ago?

 
You have never measured any of this so this is pure conjecture.


That's where this whole thing started. He bought (what we assume should be) a decent design from somebody and half arsed everything along the way from too few layers to not sealing properly.

I was saying 2 18's from the get go, but read my previous reply (or the entire thread if you can stomach it). His initial fiasco was his attempt to build a design someone else sold him and was half arsed all around. Craig Butler could hand him a design and he won't get loud if he doesn't build it solid and airtight and take time to properly seal it off from the rear.

All things equal this is typically true. The extra power the 4" coil can take is pretty much what you need to overcome the inefficiency of the larger coil. All things being equal 3" coil should edge out, that's why Warden DD-Z and similar still use them for their SPL subs. That said, who knows what quality steel, magnet, parts, and design CT uses? A sub that looks beefy could always be poorly designed or use inferior materials and be utter crap. Though in this case, I don't think the subs are the weak link here.

Hopefully this means you sorted out your financial issues without having to give up all your audioz. That hurts even to think about.

Back to square one? OK. Plan for port on the driver's side, use as much airspace as you can (keeping all right angles), and as much port area as you can. Do all sides 3 layers, baffle 6 layers and TAKE YOUR TIME making sure everything is rigid, airtight (not with foam, with straight cuts, glue, and fasteners), and then take your time COMPLETELY sealing off the front from the rear.

You can very easily shrink the box or port as needed after everything is solid and upgrade to some chunkier 18s down the road if you like.

So much wrong here..

 
Right, but my subs aren't as beefy as those dc's or the one's in the first video. Nowhere near it. Actually there's no comparison at all. But yeah I'll do the port on the driver side and do one on top and one on bottom. My height is only 35. But I'll just angle them inward slightly.

 
Just a heads up when you try and angle them that's just way more work you'll have to do. Will be taking something simple as a flat sheet of would and making it a full blown project in its self for you. Just another gap to try and seal or get flush.

 
Just a heads up when you try and angle them that's just way more work you'll have to do. Will be taking something simple as a flat sheet of would and making it a full blown project in its self for you. Just another gap to try and seal or get flush.
He means just not mount offset since he doesn't have the height to do them straight up and down.

Right, but my subs aren't as beefy as those dc's or the one's in the first video. Nowhere near it. Actually there's no comparison at all. But yeah I'll do the port on the driver side and do one on top and one on bottom. My height is only 35. But I'll just angle them inward slightly.
If you rush this and half arse everything it won't turn out any better.

 
Why do you say that los?.....and yes its particle board, i got about 40 sheets for free, and i was very dissatisfied with my wall so i figured fuuck it, I'll start over and see how well the particle board will hold up. If it does...hell yeah, if it doesnt, oh well, it was free. Who cares what kind of wood it is, as long as it works who fuccking cares?....it'll be painted anyways. And most likely a few layers of some type of resin and some paint.

 
Why do you say that los?.....and yes its particle board, i got about 40 sheets for free, and i was very dissatisfied with my wall so i figured fuuck it, I'll start over and see how well the particle board will hold up. If it does...hell yeah, if it doesnt, oh well, it was free. Who cares what kind of wood it is, as long as it works who fuccking cares?....it'll be painted anyways. And most likely a few layers of some type of resin and some paint.
Because PB is more brittle than MDF....man your bitter....and don't know if bracing it will help either.

 
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