testing speaker inputs with a DMM

well, my guess is that he is trying to find the pre-outs of his reciever or i don;t know. Take a channel, left or right (not the rca's, the actual wires fromt he recievers harness. Connect it to DMM pos to pos and neg to neg. pop in CD 50Hz tone on repeat. Thats all i can really think of.

If i am wrong well **** whata waste of typing lol.

 
Sorry I wasnt specific.

I hooked up my amp yesterday, sub played fine. So, I start the car, and no more sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif . The amp power light still comes on, no fuses blew, no wiring is faulty, the one and only thing that changed was me starting the car. Im thinking the speaker inputs (or maybe they are outputs, the speaker terminals on the amp) are blown.....I thought there was a way to test them with a DMM.

 
set your DMM to AC volts, put the leads on the speakers outputs of your amp, if it shows any volts, its not blown

Cool, thanks Acid. So any voltage at all indicates the outputs are fine?

If they are blown, how hard of a repair is it? Something easy to do, or would I need to send it off to be repaired?

 
So, since both multimeteres and amps apparently own me, can you elaborate on exactly how I do this?

I put the red lead on the positive speaker output, the black on the negative?

Where, on the multimeter should each plug (red and black) be?

Top hole: 10ADC

Middle: VohmsignmA

Bottom: COM

 
Bump.......trying to figure this out before dark.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 
If it's a blown MOSFET, that should be an easy repair if you can get a replacement part. Involves desoldering the bad one from the PCB, and re-soldering the new one on, making sure to goop lots of heat-conductive goo between the active device and the heatsink.

 
If it's a blown MOSFET, that should be an easy repair if you can get a replacement part. Involves desoldering the bad one from the PCB, and re-soldering the new one on, making sure to goop lots of heat-conductive goo between the active device and the heatsink.

Any way to tell if this is indeed what it is? I thought a blown mosfet would leave a brown residue on the board.....I dont see anything, but Ive never done any amp repair, so I may be missing something vital.

 
were your gains all the way up? I had a speaker blow out like that before it just stopped playing. push the cone in a little bit while running and see if it starts jumping.

on a side note when a dmm is AC/DC on 1 setting how the hell do you make it read AC? I cant run on my amp cause it is reading DC voltage to me.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

zachzchw

5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Thread starter
zachzchw
Joined
Location
ohio
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
18
Views
817
Last reply date
Last reply from
zachzchw
1778578257023.png

Glen Rodgers

    May 12, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
Screenshot_20260511_212804_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Blackout67

    May 11, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top