Taramps for real?

read through this.

My test: Taramps HD8000 - Car Audio Classifieds

Cliff notes:

They make rated power

They dont like to be ran at lower than stated loads

They dont like to be ran outside of their stated voltage

The amp consumption on music statement is not when they are putting out their max power. that is what the average user will see while playing music. During a burp and achieving max power out of it, the current draw is going to be much, much more.

If you plan on using one, dont think you can just throw it in with no electrical support. You still need a solid electrical to run them, just like any other amp.

 
Every single person I have seen running these in a decent size build is on about there 3rd or 4th amp

I haven't talked to a single person who bought one and just ran it without some kind of major problem or complaint ( like having to eq the hell out of it ) I am sure there are lots that havent had any issue but of the 10-11 people I have talk to have had a lot of problems and all were regular competitors

Like everyone says I dont doubt u can get power out of them but there is a price to be paid for 8k under $900

 
read through this.
My test: Taramps HD8000 - Car Audio Classifieds

Cliff notes:

They make rated power

They dont like to be ran at lower than stated loads

They dont like to be ran outside of their stated voltage

The amp consumption on music statement is not when they are putting out their max power. that is what the average user will see while playing music. During a burp and achieving max power out of it, the current draw is going to be much, much more.

If you plan on using one, dont think you can just throw it in with no electrical support. You still need a solid electrical to run them, just like any other amp.
Thanks for the info

So say for instance I got the HD 3k wired it with a 150 amp fuse and did not go under 12.8 volts what would be the power I would see out of it ? I am asking this because it says on max music it draws 153 amps and I will be using it for music not burps

 
Every single person I have seen running these in a decent size build is on about there 3rd or 4th amp I haven't talked to a single person who bought one and just ran it without some kind of major problem or complaint ( like having to eq the hell out of it ) I am sure there are lots that havent had any issue but of the 10-11 people I have talk to have had a lot of problems and all were regular competitors

Like everyone says I dont doubt u can get power out of them but there is a price to be paid for 8k under $900
I dont know of a single person that is on nothing but there first one, (I have sold about 20-30). Still just about every issue I have seen has been user error.

 
Here are some examples of why not to think they are fragile-

IE.1-

User has always ran 1ohm stable amps their whole life and now there's a new amp on the block. It's getting awesome reviews on performance. He buys it and damages it.. This particular amp was 2ohm stable only. Not knowing that would be the case, he assumed it was 1ohm stable without doing research.

Many companies do not make 1ohm stable amps and many do not make amplifiers capable of being used continuously below 1ohm either.

IE.2-

User has always ran 18v because all the big amplifiers are 18v capable. He gets a large amplifier and cooks it instantly! This particular amplifier was no where near 18v capable. There are operating conditions users must understand prior to installation!

IE.3-

User has always mounted his amplifier(s) on his speaker box without issue. His new amp he got damaged within days of doing the same... Not every amplifier is (over)built to withstand cyclic vibrational abuse. No amplifier is completely resistant of it but some are more susceptible of damage from it.

Ok, now that I have the definition laid out for Proper Operating Conditions, lets look at them now-

This is for HD amplifiers first, then i'll show the picture.

HD amplifiers-

Ohm Stability capability-

Do not wire Below the Nominal(Impedance, not resistance) ohm value the amplifier is rated for.

For competition, this is fine for BURPS only. Sustained or repetitive burps are not suggested!

Reason- These amplifiers are not overbuilt to withstand that kind of abuse hence the radical low price for high power.

DC Voltage working range-

Power Supply- 10.2v - 16.0v

Protection Range- 10.5v - 16.0v)

(That means physical range is 10.5 - 16.0v)

Operating Working Range under 100% signal output-

(this is maximum output until clipping and any % of distortion afterwords)

10.5v- 14.4v

Reason-

These amplifiers use what you could call a rail booster which ramps up the voltage internally to provide enormous amount of power and efficiency below 14.4v. This works wonders for people who cannot sustain alternator voltage who always charge higher than 14.4v.

The only downside to that, in a sense, is if the user CAN sustain charging voltage higher than 14.4v to power the entire amplifier system under maximum load, then it will put too much added stress to the amplifier overtime and eventually damage it.

There are only about 10,000 ways to lower voltage a few tenths even if charging sustained at 15.5v once power gets to the amplifier at full load!

Remember, we are not talking about DC voltage above 14.4v at all times. ONLY when the signal is at maximum potential and especially clipping over 14.4v. More detailed illustration below in graph.

Cyclic Vibrational Capabiity(mounting amp on box or wall)-

Poor

Reason- The weight of the amplifier is very light, for one, making is susceptible to not have a way to resist cyclic resonances and cyclic vibrations. Another reason is the single large transformer. This puts much added weight to the board compared to many smaller ones.

We get asked sometimes if the amplifier can't accept vibrations then how will it ever survive in a car driving down the road?

Simple answer- That is NOT cyclic!

We have never seen mirrors fall off, panels crack, wood split, steel bend, glass shatter, etc from driving down the road. But what does cause that is cyclic resonances and vibrations. Do not mount these amplifiers onto a surface or one attached to the box or wall to resist these problems.

Taramps-HDspecs.jpg


What does the impedance graph on the right actually mean?

Answer-

Do not wire speaker setup to an amplifier where it's Nominal rated impedance is lower than the rating of the amplifier.

IE- Dual 2ohm may typically be dual 1.4(1.4 being Resistance, not impedance)

Dual 2ohm in this case is 1ohm nominal or also 0.7 DCR(Direct Current Resistance)

The graph above indicates ACTUAL Impedance the amplifier sees during play!

That means it's suggested to maintain above 1.4ohms actual Impedance(not resistance) for longterm output. Sometimes a or more frequencies can dip below 1.4 but this is fine because when wiring to a proper nominal load, Actual impedance below 1.4ohms will not be sustained or in the range of your average impedance curve.
.......

 
I dont know of a single person that is on nothing but there first one, (I have sold about 20-30). Still just about every issue I have seen has been user error.
I didn't say they weren't user error, but the kind of guys running these amps like to push the issue, and if you run these outside of there operating range they will have issues just like any amplifier there operating range is just tighter then the Koreans'

 
I didn't say they weren't user error, but the kind of guys running these amps like to push the issue, and if you run these outside of there operating range they will have issues just like any amplifier there operating range is just tighter then the Koreans'
hmm good thing i'm not gonna be pushing mine a whole lot :p most i will ever try to get out of it is 3200w and my electrical will be 275ah in battery and a 270a alt //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Thanks for the info
So say for instance I got the HD 3k wired it with a 150 amp fuse and did not go under 12.8 volts what would be the power I would see out of it ? I am asking this because it says on max music it draws 153 amps and I will be using it for music not burps
Why would you fuse so low? That's not going to do anything for you except cause issues.

Like it's been stated, these amps need to be ran within the recommendations. Most of the issues I've seen with these have been either user error (wiring too low, low voltage, high voltage...) or vibration.

 
Thanks for the info
So say for instance I got the HD 3k wired it with a 150 amp fuse and did not go under 12.8 volts what would be the power I would see out of it ? I am asking this because it says on max music it draws 153 amps and I will be using it for music not burps
you should fuse for the wire, not the amp.

Running 4 gauge wire on that amp wouldn't be too wise unless you're wiring it to 4 ohms

 
Why would you fuse so low? That's not going to do anything for you except cause issues.
Like it's been stated, these amps need to be ran within the recommendations. Most of the issues I've seen with these have been either user error (wiring too low, low voltage, high voltage...) or vibration.
Because it says max music amp consumption is 153 amps for I figured use a 150 amp fuse

 
So I have been looking into the Taramps, the HD 3000 to be specific. This amp claims it can do 3598 watts at 13.8v and 3k at 12.8v all while only consuming as the info says 153 amps on maximum musical. So my question is simply is this amp for real? Does it really put out what it claims with only 153 amps?
13.8 x 153 = 2111.4 = NO

12.8 x 153 = 1958.4 = NO

3598 watts / 13.8 volts = 260 amps

not going to happen..

 
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