System Diagram Proof

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Hi all,
Haven't installed a stereo since my Alpine 3002 back in the '80s. Things have changed but I think I am up for the task. My new car sound system is terrible.

Here is my potential set up and I would appreciate a once over by some experienced builders so I can avoid problems and money.

2018 Kia forte sedan OEM head unite, 7" touch display, 10-20W / 6 channels (4x 6.5" in doors + tweets in dash)

Rear center arm rest down position opens up flow from the trunk SUB. seats also fold down.

Fosgate R250W mono block

Clarion 50W RMS x4 (high level inputs for front doors components 50W rms) Doors and dash tweets / rear doors Kicker coax.

Audio Control LC2i for Fosgate Mono block (12" sub) and rear (doors) channel of clarion (kicker 6.5" coax 100W rms). I am running the LC2i for the rear channels and high level inputs for the rears so I can retain fade control?

Alpine components front doors and dash tweets (front channels Clarion)

Kicker 100W RMS coax rear doors (rear channels Clarion)

single alpine 12" 100W RMS sub (Trunk) Fosgate. (not going with duo dubs in diagram cuz would have to buy new subs)

Is there a better way to set this stem up that is not substantially more money?

Thanks for your time and input.

Cheers, Rob.

I think the RF has speaker level high inputs on the amp so just tap in your rear speaker wires to the Amp and save your money on the LC2

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the replies,
I am not planning to use the RCA splitters, that was just FMI.

The plan is to use the LC2i for the sub and rear channel of the main, while using the high level signal OEM inputs for the front channel so I can retain fade control. Is this incorrect?

You listed low pass on your rear speakers in the diagram..I figure a typo ..but high pass set for 90 on the Clarion amp should be perfect for front and rear again this amp has built in high level input as well so no LOC converter is needed

 

[robert J]

I think the RF has speaker level high inputs on the amp so just tap in your rear speaker wires to the Amp and save your money on the LC2

Thx CRX,

Yes, LP is a typo

I was going to use the LC for the bass boast due to oem roll off at higher volumes but.... I am now considering the NVX 900.5, leaving the rear speakers in doors alone as I have found out that the signal is almost null to them. Going to pick up signal from fronts as they are full freq signal. Bridge the 900.5 and just use my Alpine components and 12's. I may try and find an amp with HL inputs comparable to the NVX but then I still have the bass roll off at volume. The NVX has a nice set of features.

This gives me two problems:

1. interface between the OEM and AMP

2. I only have one set of inputs (Front Speakers) that I will need to run both the fronts and the subs.

I appreciate your input, need more thought and more education.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Thx CRX,
I was going to use the LC for the bass boast due to oem roll off at higher volumes but....

I am now considering the NVX 900.5, leaving the rear speakers in doors alone as I have found out that the signal is almost null to them. Going to pick up signal from fronts as they are full freq signal. Bridge the 900.5 and just use my Alpine components and 12's.

Then figure out how I am going to get the HL signal to the amp. I may try and find an amp with HL inputs comprable to the NVX but then I still have the bass roll off at volume. The NVX has a nice set of features.

I appreciate your input, need more thought and more education.

If I keep rear speakers I never amplify them ..and only dual cone on deck power or equivalent amp ..if I run rear mid bass drivers .. or midrange ..I’ll band pass and amplify those ..I have over 100 first place Car Audio Trophies in SQ and SPL from IASCA ..USACi and other sound organizations..it’s best to focus on a good front stage ..usually components and a good sub stage ..a 5 ch amp would be nice for running an active front stage ..usually if your into a better SQ system ..aftermarket equalization can help out quite a bit

 

[robert J]

If I keep rear speakers I never amplify them ..and only dual cone on deck power or equivalent amp ..if I run rear mid bass drivers .. or midrange ..I’ll band pass and amplify those ..I have over 100 first place Car Audio Trophies in SQ and SPL from IASCA ..USACi and other sound organizations..it’s best to focus on a good front stage ..usually components and a good sub stage ..a 5 ch amp would be nice for running an active front stage ..usually if your into a better SQ system ..aftermarket equalization can help out quite a bit

I was thinking that future maybe a set of mid bass specific speakers amplified in rear doors but not a priority right now. Can I ask you because you have so much experience, If I run HL input amps like listed in the diag,

how bad will the sound be from the OEM head unit without a DSP?

Will my bass be absent?

Are LOCs garbage or adequate for less powerful systems?

I can't afford award winning clarity, nor could my ears appreciate it at this stage, looking for just something much better than any OEM PREMIUM sound system like the Dodge kickers or Alpines. Bright but punchy. LOUD is not a priority. I have read so many articles about using a LOC but only today discovered that they only boost the crap too.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

I was thinking that future maybe a set of mid bass specific speakers amplified in rear doors but not a priority right now. Can I ask you because you have so much experience, If I run HL input amps like listed in the diag,
how bad will the sound be from the OEM head unit without a DSP?

Will my bass be absent?

Are LOCs garbage or adequate for less powerful systems?

I can't afford award winning clarity, nor could my ears appreciate it at this stage, looking for just something much better than any OEM PREMIUM sound system like the Dodge kickers or Alpines. Bright but punchy. LOUD is not a priority. I have read so many articles about using a LOC but only today discovered that they only boost the crap too.

As long as it’s not a premium system like Bose ..fender..infinity..etc and just a basic factory system ..deck to speakers no external amp ..you’ll be fine by using the aftermarket amp hi inputs ..if it has an external amp you’ll need the an aftermarket loc to bring down the speaker outputs

 

[robert J]

My vehicle has no ext amp, 10-20W / channel (4 doors and dash tweets)

What is your opinion on the LC6i? or 2i? waste of money and decrease SQ? Obviously they are not for competition systems or even hi-end systems, but for an average punch system?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

As long as it’s not a premium system like Bose ..fender..infinity..etc and just a basic factory system ..deck to speakers no external amp ..you’ll be fine by using the aftermarket amp hi inputs ..if it has an external amp you’ll need the an aftermarket loc to bring down the speaker outputs

again, factory deck with built in factory EQ and crossovers nowadays fk people's sh*t up. if the search feature worked, you would have seen the hundreds of complaint threads where the issue was the audiocontrol line out convertor. No nothing else in the install was bad it was literally all signal related with the lc2i/lc6i/lc7i and stock head unit. Do you know how many countless threads have been made with people swapping out their recent 2015 and up car's sound systems and it literally sounds like trash compared to their stock setup? Literally thinks just swapping speakers adding an amp using an LOC for signal will be and upgrade but it sounds like a downgrade. we had them swap out the head unit or do a proper dsp and viola, even without any tuning, just the FLAT de-equalization of the signal alone made massive sound quality gains. Nothing else changed in the setup. already a handful of these threads this year and its only march.

 

[robert J]

Thanks everyone,

I am going to ignore the rear door speakers for now and just run them off the HU. Will focus on the component fronts and sub.

 

[robert J]

What about the Hertz HDP5? I can get one for $275.00 usd. it doesn't look like it has a subsonic setting for a ported sub.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

What about the Hertz HDP5? I can get one for $275.00 usd. it doesn't look like it has a subsonic setting for a ported sub.

That looks like a really nice amp ..id use the front chs either bridged on some nice components..or active if you want to do more fine tuning and it should be perfect for a quality substage

 

[robert J]

That looks like a really nice amp ..id use the front chs either bridged on some nice components..or active if you want to do more fine tuning and it should be perfect for a quality substage

what about the lack of subsonic filter?

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

what about the lack of subsonic filter?

You can always add an aftermarket subsonic filter if you end up needing it ..I like it has a built in band pass filter so you can run this amp active out of the box

 

[robert J]

Here is my new plan "A".

I am winging the crossover frequencies. Are there any glaring issues with this setup in general. I may just leave the rear door speakers on the OEM HU. Oh, and the LC7i is only until I can afford a proper DSP.

Thanks for any input you may have.