Switch out Stinger 4 gauge OFC to SHCA 1/0 CCA? Yes Or No?

[Ace87]

I'm not exactly opposed, I just no longer have an active paypal and because eBay's not like it was years ago when I was teenager amd they took money orders or cashiers checks as payment, I cant order through them.. nowadays everything's paypal.. ***** for me.

Most menards has Royal excellene 2/0 and 4/0 welding wire. But can be purchased cheaper off eBay. Not sure why you're so opposed buying from there but to each their own

 

[Ace87]

Not sure what you mean by how am I going to wire it? I'm replacing my 4awg with the 2/0, 1 20 foot run of the 2/0 to my amp with shca amp reducers, with the fuse for the amp 12-18 inches from the battery up front, and no fusing in the rear near the amp. With the remaining 2/0, I'm redoing my big 3/4, which also has no fusing (I know some say it should but I have the xs power big3 cca kit with no fuse and I've had no issues since installing it in the summer last year). Also, the one agm battery I got is the main starting battery in the car, so it's under the hood, no extra batts in the trunk or anything here.. yet.. You completely lost me on the voltage sensor thing. Would you care to elaborate more on what exactly is done to "wire it to the furthest distribution point" or what the sensor actually looks like?

Exactly what and how are you going to wire you battery/amps?Your voltage sensor that regulates voltage is usually tied in somewhere under the hood.. Sometimes it's at the battery sometimes it's in the distribution block/fuse box. You need to find out where it is and wire it to the furthest distribution point and test voltage at the alternator. It will give you a slightly higher voltage. As long as its not over 15.5 at the alt your fine. Your going to loose about a volt to your lights/radio and amps through resistance.

Next as for the fusing. On music the load is generally so dynamic the fuse doesn't have time to open. Ive seen inductive loads sag voltage 30volts and pull nearly 2x the amperage on start up(from the start coil/windings) without blowing. For 2/0 I'd fee safe with a 175amp fuse.

Unless your drawing 180 amps for 30 seconds you won't pop that 175

 

[los33]

Not sure what you mean by how am I going to wire it? I'm replacing my 4awg with the 2/0, 1 20 foot run of the 2/0 to my amp with shca amp reducers, with the fuse for the amp 12-18 inches from the battery up front, and no fusing in the rear near the amp. With the remaining 2/0, I'm redoing my big 3/4, which also has no fusing (I know some say it should but I have the xs power big3 cca kit with no fuse and I've had no issues since installing it in the summer last year). Also, the one agm battery I got is the main starting battery in the car, so it's under the hood, no extra batts in the trunk or anything here.. yet.. You completely lost me on the voltage sensor thing. Would you care to elaborate more on what exactly is done to "wire it to the furthest distribution point" or what the sensor actually looks like?

What he said would only matter if your vehicle has a battery temp sensor which is almost always located on the ground wire.

If you do not see it then it really does not matter since the big 3 should bypass this sensor entirely if done right.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok, but I always thought you fused for the capacity of the wire? What would you do in a situation like mine where I already ordered the 350a fuse with weld cable? Is it even ok to use a smaller fuse like you talked about with the larger wire like that? Would it be better to use the 175a I already have instead?

You can fuse by the battery with 300A.... that's only to protect your car from catching fire in the event of a short to ground in your primary power cable. I'm saying that the on-board fusing on that amp is theoretically supposed to protect the amp and it will not at 140A rating. If you've never opened a fuse when getting carried away playing loud it is likely that your fuse will not protect your amp in the event of a problem.