Sundown SAZ-3000D Vs. Tru H-1

[MCarmer 10+ year member]

So your saying the TRU draws more amperage? I doubt that... Not to mention from the looks of it the powersupply is highly regulated for protection...Polo.

I couldnt have said it better. Than this right response right here.

The class AB TRU will have more current draw to put out the same amount of power as the more efficient class D Sundown.

To make this comparison you really need to pick the criteria that you're gonna base your decision on. Do you want the most reliable amplifier? Do you want the most efficient? Do you want the cheapest? Do you want the best warranty? Quit guessing and just lay out the facts.

He speaks of the truth, i swear you have some kind of devined powers that when im thinking something you just say it. Do I happen to know you or something?

 

[Safe_Cracker 10+ year member]

The class AB TRU will have more current draw to put out the same amount of power as the more efficient class D Sundown.

That isn't always true it could use a higher Voltage instead of opting for higher amperage . The TRU uses 2x 120A fuses as the SAZ uses 1x 300A with reports of that being a bit higher under a lower impedence. So with the lower fuse ratings I am going to say that the TRU amp requires a higher voltage to reach its rated output probably 14.4V + where as the SAZ doesn't . Now over a given time the TRU may use quite a bit more total power through high losses and this not being anywhere near full duty. The SAZ will only pull when used and to most that is a plus, waste is just soooo WASTEFUL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[roarzorz 10+ year member]

That isn't always true it could use a higher Voltage instead of opting for higher amperage . The TRU uses 2x 120A fuses as the SAZ uses 1x 300A with reports of that being a bit higher under a lower impedence. So with the lower fuse ratings I am going to say that the TRU amp requires a higher voltage to reach its rated output probably 14.4V + where as the SAZ doesn't . Now over a given time the TRU may use quite a bit more total power through high losses and this not being anywhere near full duty. The SAZ will only pull when used and to most that is a plus, waste is just soooo WASTEFUL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

It's not very fair to compare the amplifier's efficiency while giving one more voltage than the other. As long as both see equal voltage input and have equal wattage output the TRU will pull more amperage. The output doesn't even need to be equal, it just makes it easier to explain. Basic math will figure out the efficiency.

(Output current x output voltage) / (input current x input voltage) = efficiency

It doesn't matter if the TRU's technology works better with a higher voltage input. That same higher voltage will just make the Sundown even more efficient. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif There's a reason the saz-3000d has become very popular in MECA where an amplifier's efficiency is really important with the need for lots of power through very little fusing. With the new design of the saz-3500d I bet it's going to be even more popular.

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

isnt the Tru specs rated @14V and the Sundown is rated @12V?

??

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

??

The current Tru offerings are CEA 2006 rated @ 14.4 volts. Straight from Sundown's page regarding their SAZ-3000D: Tested Voltage & THD : 14.4V & Less than 1% THD

 

[RetroAudioinc 5,000+ posts]

Ok I think I might go with the sundown 3000D for subs and tru t03 150.4's for mids and highs did not ant to mix brands but I think it might be best...

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

ok, cause I thought Jbizzle keeps telling me some pretty nice numbers @12V...

 

[TeamRetribution 10+ year member]

ok, cause I thought Jbizzle keeps telling me some pretty nice numbers @12V...

Itwill do rated power @ 12.8 ..

 

[Safe_Cracker 10+ year member]

Regardless of how clean an amp is anything aproaching 4kw will create noise within the cabin negating the need to call it an SQ amp. The output may start clean but the overal outcome is the same regardless of the amp classification....

Polo..

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

if this is daily and you are going to run enough batterys for the tru put that 1 in!

if you havent ran a class a/b in sub stage with power over 2krms dont bother responding until you try it. the tru will have ALOT more control over the subs BY FAR. it will be tighter and have better impact too.

they are totally different amps and have different objectives besides power. if ur a basshead and compete alot go with the sundown.

 

[94z28stroker]

First up you have a class A/B Audiophile SQ grade amplifier that is capable of doing well over 4KW RMS and if you're slick you can run it in SPL and SQ and compete in two events in the one amp classes of IASCA with the right subs and a little inginuity where you'll run a 4 ohm & 1 Ohm Load on the SH-1 and swap the impedances on the fly! Yeah, I can rig your ride like this... Take a good look inside this amp as well. It looks like good ole American Made Inginuity went into this amp and it sound like it too. Best part is in 10 years or so when they are not to be found this amp will be shipping to Japan for the big bucks just like some of the other elite Old School amps. Funny that orientals would prefer an American Made amp over there own products don't you agree?

Second, you have a class D Chinkaneese amp that looks like it has a transistor package from a 225.2 450 watt Fosgate or something. Are we using any class D amps in SQ at all these days? I sure hope not, every class D amp I have ever had sounded like pure "assk me" in an IB set up... I sure would'nt turst the class D amp to control my subwoofer cone in FREE AIR! I know in SPL, distortion can often be the winning differance, CV knew this too and the Strokers were made adjustable so you could use them in SQ or SPL back in the day... but how many of the SQ vehicles can even run in the same lanes as an SPL vehicle without ducking their head in shame. I would assume if the class D amp is winning anything in SPL it must be this Distortion factor from tossing the cone arround uncontrolably as is the usual in SPL. At least CV took this into consideration when they designed their old school Strokers and made an adjustment on the pole to prevent damage in this distortion. Key is man you need a box if you use that amp period and I don't use boxes at all. You also will not see any resale value in the Chinkaneese amps down the road either and reputable repair shops might not even want to waste time repairing one of them in 5 years. I am not saying that for a cheapo amp that the class D is not good but I am saying that in 5 years it will only be just another cheapo amp and part of the forgotten Car Audio history like so many other amps.

I urge you again to look closely at the guts of both amps. After that if you're still thinking about the Chinkaneese amp contact me and I'll be happy to take the US Made amp off your hands and buy you the Chinkaneese thing. RIP JWF!

 

[Grinder1989 5,000+ posts]

First up you have a class A/B Audiophile SQ grade amplifier that is capable of doing well over 4KW RMS and if you're slick you can run it in SPL and SQ and compete in two events in the one amp classes of IASCA with the right subs and a little inginuity where you'll run a 4 ohm & 1 Ohm Load on the SH-1 and swap the impedances on the fly! Yeah, I can rig your ride like this... Take a good look inside this amp as well. It looks like good ole American Made Inginuity went into this amp and it sound like it too. Best part is in 10 years or so when they are not to be found this amp will be shipping to Japan for the big bucks just like some of the other elite Old School amps. Funny that orientals would prefer an American Made amp over there own products don't you agree?
Second, you have a class D Chinkaneese amp that looks like it has a transistor package from a 225.2 450 watt Fosgate or something. Are we using any class D amps in SQ at all these days? I sure hope not, every class D amp I have ever had sounded like pure "assk me" in an IB set up... I sure would'nt turst the class D amp to control my subwoofer cone in FREE AIR! I know in SPL, distortion can often be the winning differance, CV knew this too and the Strokers were made adjustable so you could use them in SQ or SPL back in the day... but how many of the SQ vehicles can even run in the same lanes as an SPL vehicle without ducking their head in shame. I would assume if the class D amp is winning anything in SPL it must be this Distortion factor from tossing the cone arround uncontrolably as is the usual in SPL. At least CV took this into consideration when they designed their old school Strokers and made an adjustment on the pole to prevent damage in this distortion. Key is man you need a box if you use that amp period and I don't use boxes at all. You also will not see any resale value in the Chinkaneese amps down the road either and reputable repair shops might not even want to waste time repairing one of them in 5 years. I am not saying that for a cheapo amp that the class D is not good but I am saying that in 5 years it will only be just another cheapo amp and part of the forgotten Car Audio history like so many other amps.

I urge you again to look closely at the guts of both amps. After that if you're still thinking about the Chinkaneese amp contact me and I'll be happy to take the US Made amp off your hands and buy you the Chinkaneese thing. RIP JWF!

That is one of the most biased, untrue, and quite frankly,one of the most stupid things I have ever read.

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

How dare 94z28stroker insult the cookie cutter, run of the mill, Zenon produced, name on a heatsink, amplifier. You too can have your own name on a heatsink for the initial investment of 300 units //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Grinder1989 5,000+ posts]

How dare 94z28stroker insult the cookie cutter, run of the mill, Zenon produced, name on a heatsink, amplifier. You too can have your own name on a heatsink for the initial investment of 300 units //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Since when does that make it a bad amplifier? They are not all 100% the same too, just similar board lay outs and components. I challenge you to find an Zenon amp, made by two different companies that are 100% identical. The Sundown, in terms of putting out wattage, will walk all over that TRU with a limited amount of current. The Sundown is the superior amp in terms of putting out power. Class D > AB in terms of efficiency and power in small packages. I'm sure the Tru will be the better sounding, less distorting amp. That's something that is undeniable. But don't take my word for it, do your research. It's just annoying to see people that are not educated in amplifier performance talk. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[gunz4me 10+ year member]

Since when does that make it a bad amplifier? They are not all 100% the same too, just similar board lay outs and components. I challenge you to find an Zenon amp, made by two different companies that are 100% identical. The Sundown, in terms of putting out wattage, will walk all over that TRU with a limited amount of current. The Sundown is the superior amp in terms of putting out power. Class D > AB in terms of efficiency and power in small packages. I'm sure the Tru will be the better sounding, less distorting amp. That's something that is undeniable. But don't take my word for it, do your research. It's just annoying to see people that are not educated in amplifier performance talk. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

I didn't say that it was a bad amplifier.... There are just too many amplifiers using the same, basic, underlying design, hence the reason I dubbed them the "me too" amplifiers. Maybe I should start my own amplifier marketing company and call it "Name on a Heatsink":laugh:

Back to the main topic at hand, I actually agree with you. If one is looking for performance per dollar spent, the Sundown would be the way to go. The initial investment will be less as well as the bank of batteries required to feed it consistent voltage.

Also, what will the Sundown do with regards to real world efficiency, 75 to 86%? I am sure the TRU may start out in the low to mid 70% range, until HEAT becomes a factor!

Lastly, since the OP claims to have both, I think he should try both and tell us what his experience is. After all, what is another two or three batteries in the grand scheme of all the other money he has spent?