Sundown SAZ-3000D Vs. Tru H-1

RetroAudioinc
5,000+ posts

Custom Car Audio Decals
I have one of each of these amps, I am trying to setup my new system. It will be for daily and comps really.. But I need to pick either all sundown or all tru. I saw this on the tru and it worries me "Efficiency: 69.1%" and the sundown is "Efficiency @ 4 ohm 86%" higher here is better am I right?

If I missed something that makes the Tru better please let me know and why..

First up Tru SH-1

1 x 2000W @ 4 ohms

1 x 3000W @ 2 ohms

1 x 4000W @ 1 ohm

THD:

S/N Ratio: >100dB

Damping Factor: >700

Efficiency: 69.1%

Freq. Response: 10Hz ∼ 300Hz (+/- 1dB)

Fuse: External 2 x 120A

Dimensions: 15" x 8.8" x 6.75" (38.1cm x 22.4cm x 17.2cm)

Weight: 23.5 lbs. (10.7 kg.)

inside1.jpg


inside2.jpg


outside4.jpg


outside3.jpg


inside4.jpg


Next up the well known Sundown SAZ-3000D

Rated power output

----RMS power, 2 ohm linkable/dual mono

6000W x 1CH

----RMS power, 1 ohm mono

3000W x 1CH

----RMS power, 2 ohm mono 1600W x 1CH

----RMS power, 4 ohm mono

800W x 1CH

Signal to Noise Ratio >90dB

Low pass frequency crossover 35Hz~300Hz

Subsonic filter 10Hz~60Hz

Bass boost @ 45Hz 0~18dB

Phase shift control 0~180 degree

Frequency response 10Hz~350Hz (+/- 1dB)

T.H.D @ 4 ohm

Efficiency @ 4 ohm 86%

Fuse rating 300A (external type fuse)

Input Sensitivity 200mV to 6V (+/- 5%)

Dimensions 252(W) x 53(H) x 594(L)mm

xSAZ-3000Db.jpg


xSAZ-3000Db.jpg


xSAZ-3000Dd.jpg


 
the dampening factor....and the fact that you could get more out of the tru amp....just based on effiency that you listed (most likely the tru is at 1 ohm....atleast i hope) you come out with 200 more rms power with the tru...its basically up to you since you are only going to be bass racing a 129.9 class....my farts can win that class

 
the dampening factor....and the fact that you could get more out of the tru amp....just based on effiency that you listed (most likely the tru is at 1 ohm....atleast i hope) you come out with 200 more rms power with the tru...its basically up to you since you are only going to be bass racing a 129.9 class....my farts can win that class
BTW Have fun at chuck e. chesse on your "date" with the 12 year old.. hahaha Fart that b*tch..

 
i would go sundown just on quality and reliability . plus if you ever do need a repair they can fix it the people at db-r know thier shit and will stand by anything they work on . i have never heard of any design or manuacturing issues on any of the sundown amps . i currently only have a sae1200d and can tell you for a fact it pushes outatleast 1400 on my stock tahoe alternator with a big 3 and kinetik hc800 thats at 1ohm stable all day long

 
The Tru Technology amp is designed and manufactured here in the USA (well after ripping off the Korean company Abyss) unlike the Sundown that is made in your typical "me too", overseas, sweat shop, child labor abusing, build house. Nothing against Jacob, or Sundown, but there are just too many similar products that are coming out of the same build houses with different names slapped on them. Also, overseas build houses are the only way you are going to keep unit of production cost low.

Another thing is a status factor. Do you want to be like every other kiddie on ca.com who runs Sundown or do you want to show that you have balls and dare to be different by running something other than the current ca.com/SPL competition "boner" product? I can understand if you want to be like sheep and follow the herd, nothing wrong with that!

 
Don't get me wrong now, I like sundown I have a Sundown 3000D on a Nightshade 15" D2 and a 100.2 in my truck.

I have the chose of moving that over or selling it and going all tru.. I am not one to follow but I am one to at least try it and to be honest I have been very happy with sundown the 100.2 sounds better and is louder then my old zx-450.

I was really thinking tru until I saw it's 2ohm for 3000w in the manual but it also has 1ohm but it's marked out. Ampguts says it's ohm so I hope it is..

Here is the H-1 SH-1 Manual from Tru

http://www.retroaudioinc.com/H-1_SH-1_Manual.pdf

 
TRU isn't designed for raw power nor competition it is an audio buffs amp. You are trying to compare a class AB to a class D, totally different ball game here. I really like the TRU amps they are really pretty, construction and all but in the real world where we beat the crap out of our amps at 1 ohm or less, the AB isn't going to hold up no matter how many TO-3's it has... Now give me a GOOD class D with TO-3's that would be a sight to see. Oh and 69% efficiency for an AB, ya has to be at 4ohm probably like in the 40's at 2 ohm how many fans does it have? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Polo.

 
you might want to get the right specs for a H1 also. the specs you are showing are for a SH-1 which is 2 H-1's linked in one chassis

H-1

1 x 600W @ 4 ohms (14.4V - 0.1% THD)

1 x 1000W @ 2 ohms (14.4V)

1 x 1500W @ 1 ohm (14.4V)

Fuse: External 120A

also if you want High end sql then go with the Tru

 
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