Suggestions.

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

From your posts it seems like you're looking to save on space so I'm thinking a small sealed box. The dayton does well in a tiny sealed box while the w6 will need bigger but can still perform in a relatively small sealed.

As for power, that 75 would bbe sufficient for the comps even though they'll take more. But 300w, IMO wont do either sub justice especially sealed. But it depends on how nmuch output u like I guess. Id do atleast 600rms maybe more to either sealed. As For tthe comps, it wont matter too much with how dynamic music is, they will never see full power anyway so jus get a nice clean amp thats in your budget wwith however much power u feel comfortable givin them

Also pm pro rabbit here on the forum, he can design and build u a box suited for your needs......or ram designs

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

Thanks again. I've been reading the "pinned" threads at the top and have learned alot...

Now, I kind of wish that the 300w would be enough power(pretty sure you're right though..it's prob. not)

but, I was thinking that IF it WERE enough...

I could buy the Boston GTA602 2 Ch. @ 4-ohm 60 Watts x 2 amp($150) to power my "rear's" (thinking about the Boston Acoustics SR65's for that)

THEN "bridge" the main channel to 200w@4ohm on my JL Audio amp to power my front stage...

If that makes sense...But, again that all would hinge on 300w being enough for my sub.

And, you're right. I do like the size/style of that stealth box. But, If I could get something made that's similar

I wouldn't mind if it had to be slightly bigger.

In review...lol

I would have

200 W RMS x 2 powering my Pro60's (front stage)

60 Watts x 2 powering my SR65's (Rear's)

300 W RMS x 1 powering a 10w6v2-4

Thoughts?

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

Also, if I were to go down to a 10w6v2(as opposed to a 12) I 'MIGHT' be able to get away with the 300w...Here's the specs for it from the JL site.

Continuous Power Handling (RMS) 600 W

Recommended RMS Amplifier Power 200 - 600 W

Nominal Impedance (Znom) Dual 4 Ω

As you can see, the "optimum" area looks to be at around 350w.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Thanks again. I've been reading the "pinned" threads at the top and have learned alot...
Now, I kind of wish that the 300w would be enough power(pretty sure you're right though..it's prob. not)

but, I was thinking that IF it WERE enough...

I could buy the Boston GTA602 2 Ch. @ 4-ohm 60 Watts x 2 amp($150) to power my "rear's" (thinking about the Boston Acoustics SR65's for that)

THEN "bridge" the main channel to 200w@4ohm on my JL Audio amp to power my front stage...

If that makes sense...But, again that all would hinge on 300w being enough for my sub.

And, you're right. I do like the size/style of that stealth box. But, If I could get something made that's similar

I wouldn't mind if it had to be slightly bigger.

Also, if I were to go down to a 10w6v2(as opposed to a 12) I 'MIGHT' be able to get away with the 300w...Here's the specs for it from the JL site.

Continuous Power Handling (RMS) 600 W

Recommended RMS Amplifier Power 200 - 600 W

Nominal Impedance (Znom) Dual 4 Ω

As you can see, the "optimum" area looks to be at around 350w.

my main concern with the Stealthbox is that, though it may look nice, it may not give you the performance that you would like. You could probably get better results from a more "traditional" sub box (square/rectangular box built to specs for the sub). But its really a chance youre taking with the stealthbox, it could sound great to you, or you could hate. Are you willing to chance that with your money?

you could probably get away with 300wrms on the sub, IDK. But I do know that generally you lose output going sealed as opposed to ported. So while 350w ported may be sufficient output for you, 350w sealed may not be. (The reason I keep recommending sealed boxes is because youre concerned with saving space, otherwise I'd recommend a ported box.) For example, in my car (equipment in my sig), each of those 10s is rated at 600wrms and i give each roughly 375 -400wrms, ported and its just barely enough output for me in my little Scion tC to keep up with my front stage (no rears). I'd hate for you to only run 300w to the sub and not get the lows you want. It could work for you since you may not like as much bottom as I do, but I always like to look at it as its better to have too much than not enough. If your subs are too loud, you can turn em down; but, if your subs arent loud enough, you cant just go cranking the amp or you'll clip them.

Edit: and even with 300wrms, the 12 will still be louder than the 10 due to cone area advantage so keep that in mind moreso than the rms power ratings.

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

That's good to know about the 12 being better...I wouldn't have thought of that. You're right too, I don't want to throw that $700 bucks away on something that isn't going to be up my preference.(I already have two 6's that I can't sell) That's why I was wondering if maybe I could have something built that emulates the stealth box, that way I'm still not losing all of my cargo space because of my sub box.

I would think that someone could build the box with that general design even if they have to make it deeper/taller to meet specs...But, I've never built one so...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

Another question, My JL amp is rated as 75wrms @ 4ohms and 100wrms @ 2ohms. My question is...The Boston Pro60SE comps are rated at 125wrms @ 3ohms and the Boston SR65's are rated at 75wrms @ 4ohms...Will my amp recognize and send more power to my 3ohm rated front stage comps or will it default back to 75wrms @4ohm like the rear's? Would be nice to get that extra power up front, and would still leave me 300wrms for my sub. (Saving me from buying another amp entirely)

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

That's good to know about the 12 being better...I wouldn't have thought of that. You're right too, I don't want to throw that $700 bucks away on something that isn't going to be up my preference.(I already have two 6's that I can't sell) That's why I was wondering if maybe I could have something built that emulates the stealth box, that way I'm still not losing all of my cargo space because of my sub box.
I would think that someone could build the box with that general design even if they have to make it deeper/taller to meet specs...But, I've never built one so...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

maybe it could be done but Idk it'd probably be more effort and money than its worth IMO. Why not just do a traditional ported box? my aunt has an Xterra and the cargo room isnt too small. You could always just run a grille on the speaker for times u need to haul stuff. or...small sealed again....but that may require a new amp.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Another question, My JL amp is rated as 75wrms @ 4ohms and 100wrms @ 2ohms. My question is...The Boston Pro60SE comps are rated at 125wrms @ 3ohms and the Boston SR65's are rated at 75wrms @ 4ohms...Will my amp recognize and send more power to my 3ohm rated front stage comps or will it default back to 75wrms @4ohm like the rear's? Would be nice to get that extra power up front, and would still leave me 300wrms for my sub. (Saving me from buying another amp entirely)

the 3 ohm set will get more power due to less resistance IIRC, those pro's are more efficient than the Boston SRs too.

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

What do you think about this amp for my sub amp?Amazon.com: MRX-M50 - Alpine Monoblock 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Amplifier: Car Electronics

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

maybe it could be done but Idk it'd probably be more effort and money than its worth IMO. Why not just do a traditional ported box? my aunt has an Xterra and the cargo room isnt too small. You could always just run a grille on the speaker for times u need to haul stuff. or...small sealed again....but that may require a new amp.

That may be what I end up doing...I just like the "custom" look of that stealth box and I would kind of feel like I kind of "half ***ed it" by just throwing a box off the floor in there.

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

Got my weekend project.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

That may be what I end up doing...I just like the "custom" look of that stealth box and I would kind of feel like I kind of "half ***ed it" by just throwing a box off the floor in there.

i wasnt saying throw a box off the floor in there. Have a box designed to specs for the sub you choose. It may not look as custom but it'll sound better. The sub doesnt care what the box looks like but it does care about its airspace, tuning, and overall construction. Or for a little more, maybe, its possible someone could build u a box with a "custom" look to it that will still make the sub perform like it should.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

What do you think about this amp for my sub amp?Amazon.com: MRX-M50 - Alpine Monoblock 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Amplifier: Car Electronics

I dont have any experience with lower line Alpine amps. Im pretty sure the Boston Acoustics GTA 500m is like 150ish though.

Amazon.com: Boston Acoustics Gta-500m 500 Watt Mono Channel GTA Series Car Amplifier: Car Electronics

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

I dont have any experience with lower line Alpine amps. Im pretty sure the Boston Acoustics GTA 500m is like 150ish though.
Amazon.com: Boston Acoustics Gta-500m 500 Watt Mono Channel GTA Series Car Amplifier: Car Electronics

I'll check into the Boston amp a little more then...At the time of that post, I was thinking of just using that low end Alpine for my "rear fill" only. Basically, just something to power them.(to help balance out everything)

My rear speakers are located directly behind my front seats(at your feet) so they need something more I think, to balance out the "fill"....

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I'll check into the Boston amp a little more then...At the time of that post, I was thinking of just using that low end Alpine for my "rear fill" only. Basically, just something to power them.(to help balance out everything)Yeah,

you wanted to use a subwoofer amp for your rear fill? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif With that 5 channel you have, just amp all 4 channels and fade to front as necessary, I would think IMPRINT would handle that part for you though but IDK, never looked into it too much.

Or sell your 5 channel, get a good 4 channel for the fronts and rears and a mono amp for the sub

or sell the 5 channel, a get a 2 channel for the fronts and a sub amp

or, since the BA Pro set is 3ohms, a 2 channel up front and a 2 channel rear, reason I suggested this is so you could possibly get more power to the front comps while still being able to amp the rears as well. I was gonna say bridge your mid and high part of your 5 channel but im not sure its stable below 4 ohms bridged.