Suggestions.

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

nm

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

So, just any good mid-range will be good in the rear then?I was looking at "driver" type mid's thinking I could tune them for the lower end/ mid-bass to the middle frequency's (kind of like setting them up as a 3-way comp system...as I type this out though I see that probably won't work)

And, yes I think I can do most of the work...(except building a custom box) They said that the sub would run around $150 to $200 and probably twice that amount for the box.(which puts me in the $600 range) then the amp is $400 on the JL website(also what they quoted me)

that's how I came upon the $1200 number(for installation and everything)

My box with the 6's was a "custom" ported box that they built to fit under the back seat of my truck(the one I wrecked)

I wonder If I could just get a different type box built for my 6's that might help me get more out of them....(I don't know)

Would love to be able to invest some of that money back into my comps/enclosures.

And no, I'm not worried about the spl outside of the car, I just want it to hit every note in every range inside the car.

(by hit, I mean move the air inside the car down to the lowest low...

pretty sure you know what I mean. It's hard to explain to someone who doesn't

get into this stuff like we do though)

Exactly, the rear fill is just for that rear fill. You wont need too much detail from them so no need to spend much there. As for the lows, I'm gonna have to ssay the 12 will get lower but not to sure on the specs of that box though. I'm assuming its designed to make the sub perform well though. Why not just have a ported box designed with your goals in mind instead of the JL prefab? You'll probably get better sound. Id also go with a w6 over the w3 anyday. Or even the Dayton I mentioned earlier.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

You could actually keep the stock speakers back there and just amp the fronts if you really want to save some cash. Then you can spend more mmoney elsewhere.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

I would ditch the rear fill and spend that money on deadener for the front doors. Rear fill will throw off your front sound stage unless its implemented properly. I certainly wouldnt run CDT as rear fill or anything for that matter either.

I also wouldnt spend the money on those JL Audio amps. Over priced for what you get.

What I would do is pick up a nice 5 channel amp with a dedicated sub stage or a 6 channel amp that is atleast 2 ohm stable bridged on channels 5/6. You can usually find a cheap quality 5/6 channel for the price of a good mono especially if your considering running JL Audio and at the same time save on space and wire. I would spend the saved money on Second Skin sound deadener or at Sound Deadener Showdown. I would run my front stage active with the 117 and no rear fill.

If your set on having 2 amps Id run these:

JBL GTO1004 GRAND TOURING 4-CH FULL-RANGE AMPLIFIER | eBay

JBL® GTO7001 GRAND TOURING SERIES MONOBLOCK CAR AMPLIFIER AMP 700W RMS GTO-7001 (0050036119214) | eBay

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

If your set on having 2 amps Id run these:

JBL GTO1004 GRAND TOURING 4-CH FULL-RANGE AMPLIFIER | eBay

JBL® GTO7001 GRAND TOURING SERIES MONOBLOCK CAR AMPLIFIER AMP 700W RMS GTO-7001 (0050036119214) | eBay

those or the Boston Acoustics amps would be a good choice. GT or GTA series. The GT series is stable to 1 ohm stereo, and 2 ohms bridged and fan cooled.

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

on the note of the tweeters, if theyre facing straight up, theyre probably reflecting off of the windshield and sometimes this can cause them to seem "bright". Just find some tweeters you like and play around with the EQ and placement and aiming on them to tailor the sound for your liking.
Why no Boston Acoustics in the line up? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

You will be happy to know that I just purchased the Boston Pro60SE...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/celebrate.gif.82eef51c49c9919296cb60fd0d148863.gif

I listened to the JL's the Hybrid's, Foacal's, Memphis comps and the Boston(along with the high end Focal) sounded the best.

Then he said he could give me the Boston's for $400 and I was sold! Thanks for the help...

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

You will be happy to know that I just purchased the Boston Pro60SE...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/celebrate.gif.82eef51c49c9919296cb60fd0d148863.gifI listened to the JL's the Hybrid's, Foacal's, Memphis comps and the Boston(along with the high end Focal) sounded the best.

Then he said he could give me the Boston's for $400 and I was sold! Thanks for the help...

This is why you buy online and save money:

Boston Acoustics Pro60 SE Component Systems at Onlinecarstereo.com

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Meh, its only 50 bucks and if he has any issue he can take em right back there.

Congrats OP im sure you'll love them. I've never heard a bad Boston speaker.

and they LOVE power so try to have ATLEAST 125wrms on tap. They'll take more though with correct amp settings.

Have u decided what do in the rears yet?

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

No, hadn't bought anything for the rear's yet...But, from talking to some people today(and reading your thoughts)

I've decided to just get a good quality(not high end) coax...and use my amp to adjust everything.(would like to get "imprint" to help that out)

As for the amp/sub suggestions...The guy at the dealer made a good point about the "stealth box"(and my worry about the sub hitting the "sweet spot)

he said that the JL has specifically designed this box for my vehicle, and said that I could even trade my current amp(XM 700/5) in on another bigger amp to run everything. Don't know if sq wise that is the direction I need to go though? The stealth box would be a very 'clean' look though. (wish I could hear one to see if the sq is what I'm looking for)

Think this site might have been the best thing I've found though...

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

Here is the info on the sub/stealth box...anything stick out to you guys that I should be worried about?

SB-N-XTERR2/12W3v3

The Xterra has been a solid success for Nissan thanks to its utility, ruggedness and versatility. When considering a subwoofer upgrade, you don't want to give any of that up... you just want great bass added to the Xterra's long list of bonuses.

To accomplish this, the Stealthbox® tucks neatly into the side panel of the cargo area and sacrifices very little cargo space while also staying out of the way of the rear speaker locations and cargo cover.

Lurking inside is a single 12-inch subwoofer that packs a wallop and delivers outstanding fidelity. The subwoofer driver is protected from loose cargo by the included steel mesh grille, so you can load up your hatch without worries.

The Hard Data: Contains one 12W3v3-2 in a sealed enclosure. 500 watt power handling. Wired for 2 ohm mono. Stealthbox® installs in passenger side rear cargo area. A steel mesh grille is included to protect the subwoofer driver.

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

As far as my rear's go...SQ wise, would I be better off doing a component in the back doors? So that I can dictate/tune the tweet location(as to not effect my stage)

I mean, I could surface mount the tweet on the rear door and tune it down with the xo...Have more flexibility than with a coax.

I could go with something like the Boston SE60's(only $150) for my 'rear fill'...

What'd you guys think?

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

No, hadn't bought anything for the rear's yet...But, from talking to some people today(and reading your thoughts) I've decided to just get a good quality(not high end) coax...and use my amp to adjust everything.(would like to get "imprint" to help that out)

As for the amp/sub suggestions...The guy at the dealer made a good point about the "stealth box"(and my worry about the sub hitting the "sweet spot)

he said that the JL has specifically designed this box for my vehicle, and said that I could even trade my current amp(XM 700/5) in on another bigger amp to run everything. Don't know if sq wise that is the direction I need to go though? The stealth box would be a very 'clean' look though. (wish I could hear one to see if the sq is what I'm looking for)

Think this site might have been the best thing I've found though...

with the Imprint thrown into the mix, you actually might be pretty good to run the coax's in rear since you'll have something to delay them, though I havent done much research into the Imprint as a processor. Look into the JBL MS8 if ya got the moniez.

It seems to me that you really like the look of the Stealthbox over anything. Oh BTW, when the dealer says it designed for your vehicle, all that means is that it fits. I doubt it'll sound bad, but I'd be hard pressed to say youre getting the best out of the woofer, but in the end, its your money and you have to like the way it sounds. If it were me in the situation, though, I would buy a JL 12w6v2 or Dayton Reference HO online and take it to the dealer and have him build you a nice looking box for it that will get the best results from the woofer without sacrificing a nice clean look in the back of your vehicle. I can personally tell you that if youre really after SQ, that w3 is OK at best, but the w6 and Dayton are miles ahead for SQ. Boston Acoustics also makes nice subs as well. TC sounds is supposedly good for SQ too. The Dayton really gets my vote here, but go with the w6 if you feel more comfortable with JL Audio, have the money, and want it a little louder. My car is setup for SQ as well and I run the Daytons and love em to death. Also have had the w6, and I say both will be miles ahead of the w3 youre looking at getting.

Here's a link to the Dayton if you want to check it out. Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer 295-467 dont let the price fool you.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

As far as my rear's go...SQ wise, would I be better off doing a component in the back doors? So that I can dictate/tune the tweet location(as to not effect my stage)I mean, I could surface mount the tweet on the rear door and tune it down with the xo...Have more flexibility than with a coax.

I mean I could go with something like the Boston SE60's(only $150) for my 'rear fill'...

What'd you guys think?

nope dont do comps back there, waste of money IMO, unless you just want rear passengers to have a slightly better sound. Upgrading to comps in rear wont really help your front stage, and thats what SQ is all about.

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

You're right...If I'm just using the rear as fill, I just need to do a coax, because if you can't hear the 'detail' of the speaker(except in the back seat) then there is no need to do anything special there. That is a good idea about just letting them build me a custom box and getting my Sub online...You think they would/could build something similar for the Dayton? Or does it need more space? Also, how much power would I need if I did upgrade to the Dayton or the W6?

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

Here are the specs for my current JL Audio XD700/5 amp

5-Channel Class D System Amplifier, 75 W x 4 @ 4 Ω + 300 W x 1 @ 2 Ω - 14.4V

Is 300w @ 2ohm's enough power for either the Dayton or the w6?

Also, I found a w6 on amazon for $2fitty (looks like about half price)

And, Is the 75w @ 4ohm enough for my Boston Pro60SE's?